Beaten up subject. No heat... - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Beaten up subject. No heat...

Well, I took all the basic steps to get the heat back. Flushed the heater core in both directions several times, replaced as much coolant as I could without removing knock sensors (dead frozen). The coolant is relatively clean. Replaced the heater hose tee and restrictor while there. After a couple of heating/cooling cycles, added coolant to the expansion tank so it is higher than the COLD mark on it by one inch.

The heat did come back for a couple of days... Gone again... The core could get clogged again, but I doubt it. Can there still be some air in the system? Does not it bleed itself after a few heating/cooling cycles?

There’s nothing as permanent as a temporary solution.

1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham 126,XXX miles.
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 01:23 PM
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Are one,or both of the heater hoses hot after warming to operating temps?

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HUF View Post
Well, I took all the basic steps to get the heat back. Flushed the heater core in both directions several times, replaced as much coolant as I could without removing knock sensors (dead frozen). The coolant is relatively clean.

The heat did come back for a couple of days... Gone again... The core could get clogged again, but I doubt it. Can there still be some air in the system? Does not it bleed itself after a few heating/cooling cycles?
maybe some debris clogged the heater core again since you initially had heat after the flush process...but now don't have good heat. Not being able to remove the KS means you still have not drained all the old stuff out. If you can't get KS out you could try some "cooling system cleaner/flush" product. Drain as best you can and back flush heater core again. Fill with distilled water only and repeat draining system a few times using just distilled water after some drive cycles until the water comes out clear. Drain and then fill with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant. Basically do multiple drains since you can't get the KS out to do a through job first time

If you had air in the system you would overheat...the system does not "self bleed"

using tap water (has minerals) builds up deposits in cooling system and engine....if that is what you had been doing previously

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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maybe some debris clogged the heater core again since you initially had heat after the flush process...but now don't have good heat. Not being able to remove the KS means you still have not drained all the old stuff out. If you can't get KS out you could try some "cooling system cleaner/flush" product. Drain as best you can and back flush heater core again. Fill with distilled water only and repeat draining system a few times using just distilled water after some drive cycles until the water comes out clear. Drain and then fill with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant. Basically do multiple drains since you can't get the KS out to do a through job first time

If you had air in the system you would overheat...the system does not "self bleed"

using tap water (has minerals) builds up deposits in cooling system and engine....if that is what you had been doing previously
I have done exactly what you had described. The engine has been well-maintained, so I really doubt the coolant is dirty and could clog the heater core within days. GM coolant supplement was used before, but since then the system was flushed many times.

I watch the temps and they are usually around 179. The thermostat operates properly as well. I heard of coolant filters, but am really tired of playing with the cooling system. Looks like I will spend yet another winter without heat.

There’s nothing as permanent as a temporary solution.

1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham 126,XXX miles.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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Are one,or both of the heater hoses hot after warming to operating temps?
The both hoses are hot, so there is a flow through the core, but not necessarily through entire core.

There’s nothing as permanent as a temporary solution.

1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham 126,XXX miles.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 02:16 PM
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Another possibility is that the hot/cold "blend" door is in operable due to a vacuum line,and/or HVAC control issue. Possible door blocked by debris,or linkage/control issue....

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 04:08 PM
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Another possibility is that the hot/cold "blend" door is in operable due to a vacuum line,and/or HVAC control issue. Possible door blocked by debris,or linkage/control issue....
^^^this. If the return line is hot, there is flow through the core. The problem must be inside. Stuck door, bad actuator, control line leak, etc. just start at the head and work your way to the blend door and check each item for proper function. You'll find it.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 08:14 PM
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There can still be flow from inlet to outlet with most of core totally clogged resulting in little,to no actual heat in cabin.

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 07:43 AM
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You should check the head unit, and the temp sensor inside the dash. If the interior temp sensor is malfunctioning, it will not operate the heat door in the plenum.

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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You should check the head unit, and the temp sensor inside the dash. If the interior temp sensor is malfunctioning, it will not operate the heat door in the plenum.
I believe the air mix door operates properly, based on the variation of the heat I get at different settings.

There’s nothing as permanent as a temporary solution.

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