I want to pick your brains
Haven't sorted out my overheating issue yet, but wanted to see if anyone has any ideas, know something I don't, or can notice something that I'm missing. Here's what I've got:
Meziere HD electric water pump
Gary's Innovative water pump harness
AIR pump itself deleted
160° (the good one that's recommended in the Qalo's SS handbook, new a year or so ago)
Torqhead 24x conversion (running with 0411 LS1 PCM)
Initially I had the car running very well after finishing the Torqhead install. Got the system refilled with coolant and began the process of bleeding the air out. First test drive I overheated badly. I discovered I had blown the little 20amp fuse for the AIR circuit, thus the pump was not running. No where in the instructions does it say that you should replace that with a higher amperage, but I swear I've seen that mentioned on the forum before, so I put in a 30amp (it's what I had handy). So far it has not blown again.
I can't tell if I've blown the large fuse on Gary's harness because he ships it with a style of maxi fuse I haven't seen before, it's enclosed and you can't visually tell if it's blown. I've temporarily replaced it with a normal one that you can see through. To date I have not blown that one. I've unplugged and probed the harness and I do have voltage when the car is running. Everytime I try to drive the car though it quickly overheats like coolant isn't flowing.
I've never had an issue with the cooling system prior to this. I have flushed the heater core a couple times while I've owned it. Due to the Torqhead conversion you do have to change the knock sensors, so those were out for the first time while I've owned the car (and curiously when I pulled those nothing but pure water poured out). It's quite obvious that it's overheating before I even see the temp light come one, because it will stop blowing hot air from the heater. It will turn noticeably colder.
Here's the kicker, on one test drive I actually got it to hold a steady temp (around 195°) for quite awhile before anything weird happened, and blew piping hot air from the heater the whole time. It's been a head scratcher for sure. When it overheats, it's absolutely boiling over like crazy in the expansion tank, steam coming from it like something is on fire, and a solid dribble of coolant somewhere underneath it, (maybe the hose on the bottom of the tank, but it doesn't appear to leak a drop until it overheats). I've only seen the car overheat this bad once before, in the dead of winter when it was really, really sub-zero. I suspect that it was so cold and with my apparently high water to coolant ratio that it froze somewhere and had to thaw.
Do I need to have the AIR pump plugged into the circuit? I don't recall that being a requirement for this setup. Although Paul has said emissions equipment on his PCM isn't yet supported (including the AIR system), I do get voltage at the harness right before the pump, at least when I check it right after starting the car. Do I still have enough air trapped in the system that it's going to take multiple heating, bleeding and cooling cycles to work it out? Do I have a blockage somewhere? Did I get a bad pump that just isn't working consistently? Other?
Also, before it overheats I've tried opening the bleeder valve while the car is running, and so far every time I've done that a solid stream of coolant comes out of it, so I assume the pump is running, but I suppose if there's enough pressure from heat it could just be getting pushed out. I should try that test when the motor is dead cold to be sure I suppose. So that's where I'm at and it's definitely frustrating because I can't come up with a definitive, "ah ha!, that's the problem," whenever I mess around with it. So let's see what you guys can come up with. And, go.
Last edited by schlicky13; 12-07-2017 at 12:24 AM.