Mechanical fan Delete - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-16-2018, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
chazman44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Boca Raton Fl.
Posts: 131
 
Send a message via AIM to chazman44
Mechanical fan Delete

Did the mechanical fan delete over the weekend and removed air pump and all components, installed primary fan. Filled up with water just to do leak test. Primary fan will not come on, disconnected sensor on water pump, secondary fan on no primary. switched relays checked 40 Amp fuses checked all connections, still secondary fan. removed primary fan wired direct to battery fan works GR8. Only thing I did not check is green wire going to PCM, if that wasn't making contact in that pin would that affect it? I'm stumped, HELP Glad I have other vehicles to drive

The original plug to secondary fan motor is now obsolete correct?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00022.jpg
Views:	109
Size:	192.6 KB
ID:	170505  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00023.jpg
Views:	99
Size:	182.8 KB
ID:	170513  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00024.jpg
Views:	93
Size:	182.7 KB
ID:	170521  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00025.jpg
Views:	110
Size:	180.4 KB
ID:	170529  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00026.jpg
Views:	92
Size:	195.1 KB
ID:	170537  


1995 Jadestone Metallic RMW 118,000 2nd owner
#4 wagon since 09 you can eat off the undercarriage.

2008 Toyota RAV4 4 Cylinder 47,000

2004 F-150/7700 5.4, 53,000

1999 Born Free 26RSB RV Class C, V-10 88,000

2000 Harley Davidson Road King Classic 17,000

Last edited by chazman44; 01-16-2018 at 01:32 PM.
chazman44 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-16-2018, 03:07 PM
Senior Member
 
95wagon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Vancouver B.C. Canada
Posts: 4,495
 
It has been 16 years since I did mine.
My 95 Chev, I am 98% sure I had to add the primary trigger wire ( green) to "A 11" .
Did you ?

If the wiring is all there, you should be able to pull PCM A and ground 11 to make fan go on.

If you did not run that wire or there is something wrong between PCM and underhood fuse box, you could "steal" the old air pump trigger wire .

Take the brown out of A14 and move to A11 ,

Remove it from air pump relay connector and move to primary fan relay connector.

All the above ASSuming this is your problem.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	fans.jpg
Views:	74
Size:	184.3 KB
ID:	170545  



The First
LS7 T56 6 Speed Wagon
Katech cam , 550 rwhp
11.79 @ 120.65


LS7 T56 drag video
My Wagon
My W-31 Cutlass
95wagon is offline  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-16-2018, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
chazman44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Boca Raton Fl.
Posts: 131
 
Send a message via AIM to chazman44
I installed the green wire to the PCM red connector to connector location 11, per Innovative wiring instructions, please explain in detail how I would wire from air pump harness? Thanks for response 95 Wagon, Is PCM red connector same as A pcm connector as you refer to?

Beautiful wagon you have, is that a DGGM?

1995 Jadestone Metallic RMW 118,000 2nd owner
#4 wagon since 09 you can eat off the undercarriage.

2008 Toyota RAV4 4 Cylinder 47,000

2004 F-150/7700 5.4, 53,000

1999 Born Free 26RSB RV Class C, V-10 88,000

2000 Harley Davidson Road King Classic 17,000

Last edited by chazman44; 01-16-2018 at 03:59 PM.
chazman44 is offline  
 
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-16-2018, 04:34 PM
Senior Member
 
95wagon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Vancouver B.C. Canada
Posts: 4,495
 
I have never seen Gary's instructions but have heard nothing but good about the guy , so likely you have made some silly mistake like looking at a connector in the wrong orientation.

If you have run a new green wie to A11 , the air pump stuff I mentioned is not required.
It is just (in my opinion) an easy way to gain fan control without having to string a new wire from one corner of the engine compartment to the other .
See picture, yes "A" is the red one

Maybe start by backtracking a bit.

The fan motor is grounded, yes?

At the relay plug,
( take these numbers with a grain as I am nowhere near my books or car)

ignition off , you should have power at the terminal 30 ( big red I think)
ignition on , you should also have power at 85 ( lt blue )could be 86
85 and 86 are the relay windings . in a resistor suppressed (no diode) relay, the two can be wired either way.
If you put power to one and ground the other, the relay will click on.
The big "working" power going in 30 and out 87

At any time , at the relay socket , you should be able to jump 30 to 87 ( the two big wires ) and the fan should run, does it?
THE NEXT LINE IT IS CRITICAL YOU HAVE THE CORRECT TERMINALS WHEN TESTING_GROUNDING

If you have PCM plugs all disconnected, turn they ignition on.
On the red plug you will be able to ground A10 and the secondary fan will run
On the red plug you SHOULD be able to ground A11 and the PRIMARY fan should run.
IF when it doesn't, can you at least hear the primary relay click.

What we are trying to do is determine , is this issue with ,
PCM is not controlling relay
Relay is not being turned on,
Relay is not powering fan.
Fan ground issue

My car is Medium Adriatic Blue over gray

The two tone was not terribly common, wasn't my first choice but has grown on me over the years
Thanks
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1995-camaro-lt1-wiring-diagram-pcm-conn-a (1).jpg
Views:	76
Size:	150.0 KB
ID:	170553  



The First
LS7 T56 6 Speed Wagon
Katech cam , 550 rwhp
11.79 @ 120.65


LS7 T56 drag video
My Wagon
My W-31 Cutlass
95wagon is offline  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
chazman44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Boca Raton Fl.
Posts: 131
 
Send a message via AIM to chazman44
OK, Finally determined it was a ground issue with the primary fan even though both grounded on same lug, cleaned real well with sandpaper reinstalled, thinking I might go with the air pump trigger and switch on PCM and fuse box like you mentioned so don't have that one wire going to opposite side of Engine compartment. Thanks 95 Wagon, Since I'm still in Cooling section have one more question, I'm running a 160 T-Stat, before I flush again and do antifreeze should I put 180 T-stat back in? I'm in South East Florida, I have read lots of conflicting stories on this subject. Thanks again

1995 Jadestone Metallic RMW 118,000 2nd owner
#4 wagon since 09 you can eat off the undercarriage.

2008 Toyota RAV4 4 Cylinder 47,000

2004 F-150/7700 5.4, 53,000

1999 Born Free 26RSB RV Class C, V-10 88,000

2000 Harley Davidson Road King Classic 17,000
chazman44 is offline  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 02:31 PM
Senior Member
 
95wagon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Vancouver B.C. Canada
Posts: 4,495
 
thermostat , ask 10 people, get 11 opinions.

I ran a 160 in mine when it was an LT1 but was the engine was not stock.

Biggest deal is the fan settings,
If you run a cold stat with stock fan settings you end with ridiculous temperature swings .

Now you have only electric fans , it will be even worse.

Cool day on the highway I would guess you will see 170 ish or less, in traffic with no AC on you will be up in the high 220s.

So the 180-160 argument is not as (IMO) nearly as important as addressing the fan turn on temps.

Is yours stock now? Do you have the ability to read the PCM and make changes?

I typically have the secondary fan come on only a couple degrees higher than the primary.
My thinking is you set the primary to where you want to try and hold temp.
If the primary is loosing the battle, why wait another 5-10 degrees to ask the secondary to help ?

Too aggressive settings , of coarse, and the fans will be on all the time.


The First
LS7 T56 6 Speed Wagon
Katech cam , 550 rwhp
11.79 @ 120.65


LS7 T56 drag video
My Wagon
My W-31 Cutlass
95wagon is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
chazman44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Boca Raton Fl.
Posts: 131
 
Send a message via AIM to chazman44
My car is completely stock other than air pump delete, mechanical fan delete, and home base delete. Again conflicting stories on lowering fan start temps. One member on here "Grandpas Wagon" has had a wealth of information. If your car was well maintained, with normal scheduled Maint. you should be able to do a Mechanical fan delete with out any PCM changes. I'm the second owner of this car, the file that came with this car is four inches thick. Previous owner had a bug stuck in the rear third brake light and took it to the Buick Dealership. That being said, My car has been meticulously maintained by first owner and myself also. I do not have any ability to lower Fan start temps or know where to even begin. All being said and done temporarily would you leave the 160 or put the 180 and go from there. When I had the mechanical fan I could leave car running in driveway for a hour with A/C on and gauge would never even come close to half way mark. (with the 160)

1995 Jadestone Metallic RMW 118,000 2nd owner
#4 wagon since 09 you can eat off the undercarriage.

2008 Toyota RAV4 4 Cylinder 47,000

2004 F-150/7700 5.4, 53,000

1999 Born Free 26RSB RV Class C, V-10 88,000

2000 Harley Davidson Road King Classic 17,000
chazman44 is offline  
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 06:44 PM
Senior Member
 
95wagon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Vancouver B.C. Canada
Posts: 4,495
 
A/C on skews things because it forces on fan on.

If your V08 car sat idling there was fan wash all the time and as the bimetalic spring felt more heat the rad air increased, the fan would pull harder.
The mech fan cars were very good at maintaining the temp around the stat temp or a little above.

NOW your car ( when the AC is off) will sit with no airflow at all through the rad or across the engine until it gets to 225 degrees!
And if it is a hot day and the primary can't quite handle it , the temp will continue to rise until 231 degrees before the secondary fan tries the haul it down.

Get ready to see large gauge swings

Yes the stock system , well maintained is OK with stock settings,,,,,,,,,

That said, read up on all the guys complaining about rock hard brittle wiring harnesses , broken heater flow valves, "t" s ,

Yeah, running an engine at 225-230 is efficient , and with pressure and coolant you can get away with 240-250 but I choose not to .
I feel much better trying to keep around 195-200.

If you are or have been convinced that there is nothing wrong with the stock fan settings, then don't bother with a 160 stat because most of the time you are going to be well above that anyway.

All just my opinion, now let's get ready for all the others ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


The First
LS7 T56 6 Speed Wagon
Katech cam , 550 rwhp
11.79 @ 120.65


LS7 T56 drag video
My Wagon
My W-31 Cutlass

Last edited by 95wagon; 01-17-2018 at 06:47 PM.
95wagon is offline  
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-19-2018, 09:49 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: (718)-
Posts: 1,443
 
When you swapped the mech primary fan for the electrical primary fan, did you update the pcm file to let it know that it now has 2 electrical fans?
It's a simple switch that needs to be toggled.

1g1bl82p7rr127841 Rust In Pieces, Rest In Peace
They are NOT Lying to You
You are NOT Lying to Yourself
You are Being Lied to - BY Your Self
Alone aka The Last Psychiatrist
Marky Dissod is offline  
post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-19-2018, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
chazman44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Boca Raton Fl.
Posts: 131
 
Send a message via AIM to chazman44
I was told by many on the forum nothing to do on PCM on a 95 LT-1, other than lower fan start temps if you choose to do so.

1995 Jadestone Metallic RMW 118,000 2nd owner
#4 wagon since 09 you can eat off the undercarriage.

2008 Toyota RAV4 4 Cylinder 47,000

2004 F-150/7700 5.4, 53,000

1999 Born Free 26RSB RV Class C, V-10 88,000

2000 Harley Davidson Road King Classic 17,000
chazman44 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy Impala SS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome