Best Ground spot in the trunk? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Best Ground spot in the trunk?

I have dual Battery in the trunk i just want to know before drilling holes, by your experience the best grounding spot.

am running now two positive 1/0 gauge cables from front battery to trunk i tried to ground the rear battery to the trunk lifters but it's not good spot anyone have any picture for the best ground spot i have to drill and am afraid of my fuel tank.

Best regards
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 05:12 PM
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On the passenger side of the trunk, lift up the mat and look or feel for a knock out. It will allow you access to the frame where you can ground right to it. That is what I did when I moved my battery to the trunk.

BH tuning, Transgo shift kit, Eaton posi W/ 3:73 gears, EDGE 9.5" 3000 stall , BMR rear lower control arms. BMR front and rear sway bars Hotchkis springs, CIA trans crossmember; 1.6 Pro magmuim RR; CIA budget headers w/ high flow cats; 2 1/2" cat back with X pipe; chrome dual cone CAI, 52mm throttle body, 30lb SVO injectors, Wilwood brake calipers, Power Stop drilled and slotted brake rotors, Bilstein shocks. Gary's 2 relay headlight harness. Gary's battery relocation harness
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my95ss View Post
On the passenger side of the trunk, lift up the mat and look or feel for a knock out. It will allow you access to the frame where you can ground right to it. That is what I did when I moved my battery to the trunk.
Thanks for you reply
you mean there is a place there i can ground it without run it underneath my car?

I will search for it anyway
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 06:09 PM
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The factory runs all the grounds to the sheetmetal of the vehicle body, not the frame. The factory runs a primary ground for the fuel pump and rear lights to a self-tapping screw on the driver's side trunk hinge support.

For a trunk mounted battery, I would drill a 3/8" hole in the trunk hinge support closest to the battery or the to metal of the rear deck, and put a 3/8" bolt with an serrated star washer (with BOTH internal & external teeth) as ground points for the negative cable.

Joel R. Rojas
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'84 Caprice Classic Sedan F41 ==> Drydocked for R&D
'95 Caprice Classic Wagon F40 ==> Somewhat Stock
'95 Caprice Classic Sedan WX3 ==> Has 3 pedals
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-14-2015, 09:14 PM
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The stock battery had a ground to the frame and the fender. While it is a very good idea to ground to the trunk hinge, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a ground to the frame for a battery in the trunk---------but as Brick B-body says also use the hinge

BH tuning, Transgo shift kit, Eaton posi W/ 3:73 gears, EDGE 9.5" 3000 stall , BMR rear lower control arms. BMR front and rear sway bars Hotchkis springs, CIA trans crossmember; 1.6 Pro magmuim RR; CIA budget headers w/ high flow cats; 2 1/2" cat back with X pipe; chrome dual cone CAI, 52mm throttle body, 30lb SVO injectors, Wilwood brake calipers, Power Stop drilled and slotted brake rotors, Bilstein shocks. Gary's 2 relay headlight harness. Gary's battery relocation harness
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 12:09 AM
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Stock GM Negative Cable

The OE GM negative battery cable has two leads. Take a look at the parts schematic attached below.

The Negative cable is #10

1.) Body Ground, skinny wire. About 1 foot in length from the negative battery terminal to the fender secured with a self-tapping hex screw (#9) and dual (inside & outside) serrated star washer (#8).

2.) Engine Ground, fat cable. Runs from the negative terminal under the coolant tank, then makes a turn to the alternator and grounds the engine block with a nut (#12)

With factory wiring, nothing is directly grounded to the frame, nor is the frame directly grounded to the battery. The closest to the frame being grounded is by the body mount bolts.

Nothing wrong with running ground wires to the frame, but a cable MUST also be run from the battery negative terminal to the frame to make it electrically sound. Gary does exactly this with his LT1 H/O Caprice / Impala SS / Roadmaster cables, shown here, at the bottom of the page. Notice the third negative lead (middle length) specifically for the frame: http://innovativewiring.com/?page_id=175
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Joel R. Rojas
4th Gen B-Body Sedan, 5th Gen B-Body Sedan & Wagon owner
'84 Caprice Classic Sedan F41 ==> Drydocked for R&D
'95 Caprice Classic Wagon F40 ==> Somewhat Stock
'95 Caprice Classic Sedan WX3 ==> Has 3 pedals
Region of DOOM
ISSCA # 517

"Oh, the equipment's guaranteed, but I have my doubts about the stuff inside.", Lt. Cmdr Montgomery Scott

Last edited by Brick B-Body; 02-15-2015 at 02:03 AM.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 07:10 AM
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I have Garys cables and they are the best. They ground to the frame as well as the body in the engine bay and the trunk area. When ever changing or adapting the electrical system in a car, adding a ground to the frame is highly suggested. But keep all grounds to the sheet metal, just add the frame ground.

BH tuning, Transgo shift kit, Eaton posi W/ 3:73 gears, EDGE 9.5" 3000 stall , BMR rear lower control arms. BMR front and rear sway bars Hotchkis springs, CIA trans crossmember; 1.6 Pro magmuim RR; CIA budget headers w/ high flow cats; 2 1/2" cat back with X pipe; chrome dual cone CAI, 52mm throttle body, 30lb SVO injectors, Wilwood brake calipers, Power Stop drilled and slotted brake rotors, Bilstein shocks. Gary's 2 relay headlight harness. Gary's battery relocation harness
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 10:20 AM
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Do you have 1 battery in the stock location and 1 in the trunk, or 2 in the trunk?

Ground the battery to both the frame and the body in the trunk. Also ground the engine to the frame. The frame grounds need to be at least as large as the positive lead to the starter.

Mike - '94 BBB SS (RIP 06/16) - '95 DGGM SS - '96 DCM SS - '92 BBB Wagon
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for reply

i have optima battery in the front reading 14.7v without extra batteries when i connect my Acid battery in the rear voltage drops to 14.5~14.4v is it normal?

See the attached picture this is my rear ground.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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Is it because i have two different battery AGM vs. Acid
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