Dual battery voltage drop with big 3!! - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-16-2012, 02:53 AM Thread Starter
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Dual battery voltage drop with big 3!!

So ive got my batteries wired in parralel with 0 gauge wire and the big three upgrade and I still get a big voltage drop whenever i crank up the volume.Sub amp is a soundstream piccasso 2000 watt and also a 4 channel alpine 400 watt.Sub is a sundown audio d2 v3 12 inch with 1500 watts rms.I cant figure out for the life of me why this happens.Even makes my lights dim still.Im also runnin a stock alt.Any help please guys..
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-16-2012, 05:16 AM
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Upgrading the alternator is your best option. Dual batteries help with a voltage drop, but they won't solve it. Your alternator has to be able to output the current demand of your amps and all the other components in your car simultaneously before you'll eliminate a voltage drop. If you're running the sub at 1 ohm, the amp is going to pull close to it's rated current draw. Assuming the amp is accurately rated (and that the model is PX1.2000D), it's capable of 2000 RMS @ 1 ohm. If you're using the gain like a volume knob and not for matching the input voltage, you are probably clipping the amp. Running that kind of power alone at 1 ohm generally requires rebuilding your entire charging system. Clipping adds more stress to that. I'd check into a new alternator and set your gains with a DMM. I'd also read about the amp and see if it does rated power or if it's overrated. I know Soundstream used to be pretty accurate when it came to ratings, but things change.

-94 Caprice Classic LS - system, Gary's wires, 200 amp alt, tint, first base/home plate delete, clear corners w/green parking lights, LTZ hood emblem, SS springs
-97 Grand Cherokee TSi - 4" IRO lift, OEM skids/hooks/hitch, sliders, 31s, rear locker, system, tint, cloth, clear corners, Magnaflow stuff
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-16-2012, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks.I dont use the bass knob to adjust the volume.Ive cranked it up a few times and it gets violent quick.all adjustments to the sound level is done thru the radio.As for the amp its claimed power rating is pretty close to what it is advertised to be.I researched it before i got it.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-16-2012, 08:10 PM
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Go to the junkyard, grab a CS144 alternator out of a Caprice, and rebuild it to a HO alt. I did that and got a 200 amp alternator for under $160 when all was said and done. I also learned a ton about alternators. The CS144 is really easy to take apart and parts for them are pretty readily available. That should definitely help with your issue if you do that.

-94 Caprice Classic LS - system, Gary's wires, 200 amp alt, tint, first base/home plate delete, clear corners w/green parking lights, LTZ hood emblem, SS springs
-97 Grand Cherokee TSi - 4" IRO lift, OEM skids/hooks/hitch, sliders, 31s, rear locker, system, tint, cloth, clear corners, Magnaflow stuff
Refs: DesertDawg, 214Texas, QUICKSSILVER, SSon22s, MadMav, gary burton
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-16-2012, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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any tips on how to rebuild that alternator??
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-16-2012, 10:10 PM
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Honestly, not really. The hardest part is getting it open. I used a strap wrench to break it apart after removing the 4 bolts. Clean the case really well before putting new parts into it. Make sure the capacitor is on the right side of the voltage regulator too. One side is insulated. I had the insulated side on the regulator and couldn't figure out why it wasn't charging. Brushes will need to be soldered to the regulator. Use a toothpick to hold them in place when you put it back together. There's a pretty good walk through broken into two parts on YouTube that breaks it down nicely. I didn't take any pics of mine disassembled otherwise I'd share.

-94 Caprice Classic LS - system, Gary's wires, 200 amp alt, tint, first base/home plate delete, clear corners w/green parking lights, LTZ hood emblem, SS springs
-97 Grand Cherokee TSi - 4" IRO lift, OEM skids/hooks/hitch, sliders, 31s, rear locker, system, tint, cloth, clear corners, Magnaflow stuff
Refs: DesertDawg, 214Texas, QUICKSSILVER, SSon22s, MadMav, gary burton
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-16-2012, 10:13 PM
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-94 Caprice Classic LS - system, Gary's wires, 200 amp alt, tint, first base/home plate delete, clear corners w/green parking lights, LTZ hood emblem, SS springs
-97 Grand Cherokee TSi - 4" IRO lift, OEM skids/hooks/hitch, sliders, 31s, rear locker, system, tint, cloth, clear corners, Magnaflow stuff
Refs: DesertDawg, 214Texas, QUICKSSILVER, SSon22s, MadMav, gary burton
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-16-2012, 10:22 PM
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nice sticky this please

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocko350 View Post
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Originally Posted by Needles.Kain View Post
Much like date night with BK, this isn't about what you prefer.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 02:30 AM
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similar problem

I have the 07 impala lt and am having similar problems, big 3 and mechman h/o alt but still having voltage drop issuses. I susspect the blower relay (replaced it a couple months ago) but not sure. Last time it went out the first thing to go was remote start, out again. Maybe a voltage regulator? Not sure and need help please.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darthpoot View Post
I have the 07 impala lt and am having similar problems, big 3 and mechman h/o alt but still having voltage drop issuses. I susspect the blower relay (replaced it a couple months ago) but not sure. Last time it went out the first thing to go was remote start, out again. Maybe a voltage regulator? Not sure and need help please.
Not sure you are going to get the help that you need here. Most if not all of us, know nothing about your 07 version Impala.

Mike
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