what are you guys doing for front speakers? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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what are you guys doing for front speakers?

what are you guys doing for front speakers? stock size replacement? speaker pods? smaller speaker with template?

I got rid of my front stock speaker (I think stock is 6x8?) and I went to killer b speaker pods 6.5 with tweeter. first I had Phoenix gold in there, then I just recently put jl 6.5 with a 1" tweeter.

i got new door panels and I'm not putting the speaker pods on them.

I found the speaker template for 6.5 on here, made them and long story short it wont work. I put the door panel on and the template/speaker is making the door panel stick out.

I'm just fed up and want to be done with this

my sound system is:
alpine head unit
MC steering wheel
jl 13w6 powered by jl 500/1
6x9 Boston powered by jl 300/4
6.5 jl audio component also powered by jl 300/4




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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 08:40 PM
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what are you guys doing for front speakers?

I've had 6.5" front speakers for years. No clearance problems at all. Currently have a pair of Kenwood KFC-1694PS in a spacer made from birch plywood. Don't recall the thickness,but it's not more than 1/2" thick. Either your choice of speaker has clearance issues,or the spacer/adapter is too thick. This is a pretty common set-up in these cars.I'm at a loss why it isn't working for you,but there are literally hundreds of these cars w/6.5" speakers without issue.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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it's a combination of them both. the magnet on the back of the 6.5s didn't fit in the rectangular hole so I had to make the template thicker




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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 09:59 PM
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what are you guys doing for front speakers?

6.5" speakers are round. If you're trying to fit a 6x9,then that's the problem. Stock size is 4x6, the door doesn't have the "real estate" to fit a 6x9. It may be possible with a very thin speaker. The round 6.5" is the way to go,trust me.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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I said they're 6.5s with 1" tweeter component system (speaker + tweeter + crossover). very pleased with them. the 6x9s coaxial (speaker mounted tweeter, no crossover) are in my rear deck. I guessed what the stock speaker size is because I just ripped them out for the 6.5 speaker pods.

as far as the rectangular hole I was talking about... when you remove the stock speaker there's about a 4 inch tall by 3 inch wide rectangular hole so the stock speaker can mount flush. the magnet on the 6.5 is about 3.5 round so it won't fit in the 4x3 hole. I think I have to cut the hole so the magnet will fit behind there

I just spent a lot of time cutting test fitting glueing routing coating spraying and don't wanna start over :-/




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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 08:09 AM
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what are you guys doing for front speakers?

So,you aren't using a spacer? An appropriate size piece of 1/2" birch plywood should solve your problem. Cut a 6" hole with a hole saw,check your clearances,screw the plywood to the door,and the speaker to the plywood. Like I said,there are hundreds of our cars out there done just this way. No reason yours can't be one of them.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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I am but the speaker pokes out too much so the door panel rests on the speaker grill so it doesn't lay flush with the door.

using 6.5 speakers so had to use template
speaker magnet too big for the door hole so it won't mount on template
thicken the template so speaker magnet fits
now door panel won't mount flush due to thickening of template due to magnet won't fit In hole

next objective is cut the damn door hole so the speaker magnet will go through so I can make a thinner template so the door panel will mount flush. damn series of events

what is your template made out of? I'm guessing mdf then stain/seal it?




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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 02:02 PM
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Cut your 1/2 inch spacer then trim the door to clear the back of the speaker. Takes about 2 minutes with a jigsaw and a metal cutting blade. All you have to trim is the sides. Top and bottom should clear fine.

EDIT** Coat baffle with thick layer of rubber undercoating.


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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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I got some plastic dip spray rubber in a can with hopes of that working




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