I don't have any photos of it, but once all that was down, a layer of foam was applied to the floor and B-pillars. It'll also be put on the doors and backside of the door panels once those are done.
Dash wise, I decided to make my own head-unit install kit, as I wanted to flush mount the DEH-p880PRS as much as possible. The bezel for the head-unit has been removed, and I cut a piece of ABS to surround it with a tight fit.
I also mounted the iPod interface unit to the right of the parking brake release. It's just barely small enough to fit behind the plastic dash piece. I'm still undecided how I'm going to hold my iPod - may wind up modifying the ash tray so that it can be hidden from sight.
Wiring wise, I've built all new power cabling using welding cable instead of the standard audio company power wire because I think it looks better (I hate clear jacketing), has a higher temperature rating, and is still flexible.
Gauges used are as follows:
- Starter to battery (1/0 ga)</font>
- Alternator to distribution (2 ga)</font>
- Fuse box to distribution (2 ga)</font>
- Distribution to battery (1/0 ga)</font>
- Distribution to amps (1/0 ga)</font>
- Ground to battery (1/0 ga)</font>
The power cable to the amplifier is routed from a distribution stud, under the overflow tank, over the wheel house to a fuse holder, then down the wheelhouse and along the frame to the trunk. The fuse holder is a KnuKonceptz brand, which isn't really all that great in the quality department, IMHO, but works. I painted it black to hide it since it was a huge
transparent plastic thing, and hid it behind the evaporator hosing.
The power cable enters the trunk above the rear differential. I ran it this way because it was [i]much[i] easier than trying to poke it through the firewall and running it under the carpet. It also helps to isolate/eliminate any EMI effects it may have on the stereo-amp interconnects and speaker wiring.
[ 10-25-2006, 09:10 PM: Message edited by: threeimpalas ]