Low miles with rust ? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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Low miles with rust ?

Hi everyone

So I have found the 96 SS I want with only 260 Miles yes that's is correct only 260 original miles , but my concern is that it has rust on the undercarriage both lower A-arms tie rod sway bar and other areas as well . Now everything else as you can imagine is in prestine condition as it should with only 260 miles. It does look like surface rust on most parts , He is a car collector the only time he drove it was to get it inspected it's been in a climate controlled area on blocks . He is asking for 24.900 what do you guys think about the price he wants ?

Best regards
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Last edited by yachtnutz; 06-22-2019 at 09:48 AM.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 10:22 AM
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John, Is this really a question? You answered it yourself in the first sentence. "So I have found the 96 SS I want". What I see there is so minor as not to be a concern and easily taken care of. You must have the funds so crack open the wallet. IMHO.

Mark: Snowman-33

93 9C1: Work & Cubic Ca$h This started with a new headlight and fender Celeritas In Conficiendo
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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I just talked to the guy and he said it's just surface rust and is willing to do the rust clean up and repair and repaint the whole undercarriage free as long as I take it at the list price . But do you think it's a good price ?

Last edited by yachtnutz; 06-22-2019 at 10:38 AM.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 10:58 AM
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Ok. I'll go.

-It don't matter a spit what anyone cept the buyer values something/anything.
-Any free advise here will only be worth what you paid for it.
-That's some serious jack to be dropping on a 1/4-century old black Chevy sedan.
-The most critical factor(s) I'd be considering is exactly what's the intent/motive is for ownership. Flip it? On blocks another 1/4-century? Daily Driver? Stripped out and turned into the base for something in the 8-second range? Showing up a brother's/friend's order-of-magnitude's-more costly Carrera, Testarossa, Maybach?
-If just an investment never to drive then I'd SAS be PAYING someone to research just EXACTLY how many other like-milers it's competing against.
-And PAYING someone to do some fancy-pants projection of ROI v. any number of alternate investment(s).
-But hell if you got patterned on the Vader poster at 11 and now just came into some mad money then GDit just goferit.

Let us know how it turns out.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 11:13 AM
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Most of the parts that are rusted are wear items and could just be replaced.(keep the originals)

The new view on collector cars is leave the rust alone. Like a coin clean up cleaning could greatly reduce the value.

If you have to repaint do it on your terms. You should pay and get warranty on the work done. If the previous owner damages the car you get it in that condition.

Low mileage cars need big wallets. There are many parts that may fail because they are not heat cycled or not run under load. Things like rear engine seals, transmission o-rings, ect. Just because the miles are low does not mean parts have not aged. They were not designed to last a long time.

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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Exactly my concerns those are very low miles it's not even broke-in yet or seated for that matter. It won't be a daily driver for the most part .I would probably drive it a few times a week at best. It is a H#$$ of a find and it still has the window sticker on it ?
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 12:14 PM
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My experience is with several "old man cars" with pre 1980 technology. That is under 100Kmiles over 30 years. Engines have leaked from all gaskets and seals. Transmissions have needed all "rubber" parts and seals. Axles have needed all seals. Shock absorbers and suspension bushing, ball joints, and tie rods needed replacement. Brake "rubber" parts could be a issue. Coolant system may need attention. Issues with "rubber " parts in the A/C system as well.

Many parts take a set position when not used and will wear very quickly when put into use.
Similar cars with more miles have had the same OEM parts that were still functional or the parts had already been replaced due to wear or age.

Great find but be ready for a high maintenance budget at the start.


Last edited by Z09B4U; 06-22-2019 at 12:21 PM.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 09:24 PM
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Anyone want to speculate what dented the frame by the idler arm?

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 11:03 PM
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That is not bad rust at all. All of those parts showing rust in the picture are thick metal.

Project 1994 9C1 Caprice with LT1 - THAT LOOKS LIKE BK HAS WIPED HIS @$$ WITH!
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 08:50 AM
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Hi John, it sounds like you want to drive it WAY more than the current owner.
As said better have deep pockets.

I would be worried about any rubber parts, like tires etc...all will need replacing sooner than you would hope with only 260 miles.

I would be expecting to change all fluids, steering, brake, oil, tranny, coolant, A/C....

the rust is the least of your problems.

I would skip the rust repair, tell owner what you plan to do with the car and offer 23K.

Hope it works out.
-ALF out...

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96 WX3 DGGM Bone Stock except Bilstein 0929/1104 odom fade mod, FB & HP & AIR pump delete, lower bushing mod,Stealth Brake Bolt mod,9C1 air dams,160 stat,TB-Bypass,Hi-Miler Hoses,Taylor wires,SStudio TB Boot & K&N,Bonnies,Pypes-X,Spintech Super Pro Streets
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