Wanted: 94 roadmaster trunk pull down switch - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-07-2010, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Wanted: 94 roadmaster trunk pull down switch

Hello i was testing my motor, i found out the motor works it will go all the way up, and only go down like 1% of the time. so i think i need a switch.

If anyone has tech help or a switch that would be super wonderful.
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-07-2010, 09:31 PM
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Lightbulb Check this...

I spent weeks fighting this in the Fleetwood and it turned out to be an intermittant open circuit in the trunk lid harness. The flopper switch at the motor was fine. Make certain the lid harness connector and the solenoid pins are in firm contact.

At least this is what worked for me and I had to completely rebuild the lid harness due to it being cut by the PO to disable the pull down. If you can find a lid harness in a JY it would be good to get it, the solenoid and the pull down switch.

Also check for corrosion on the motor tabs the pull down switch mates to.

Good luck!

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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-10-2010, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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i don't follow 100 percent, the switch like tail on the top of the trunk lid that has a cable running from it. I don't know how to look for a intermittant open circuit, though the harness is ion connection with it, when removed the trunk wont pop open.

It pops open fine just wont pull down..
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-10-2010, 10:26 AM
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The two wires to the trunk lid solenoid have something to do with the circuit completion for the pulldown switch to work.. At least that was the problem with the Caddy. I thought it was the switch on the pull down motor and it was not.

That said, take a meter and check the switch for power and continuity. I have some alligator clip jumper wires to check circuits. Easily mde after a visit to a Radio Shack or can often find them in ready made kits. Try your local Hobby Shop that caters to RC planes (petrol power) and cars for a host of things we can use on these cars.

Using a large paper clip, unfold one straight piece to insert into the pull down switch so you can connect the alligator clips. One wire is ground and two will be hot (+) One hot wire will power the pull down motor in one direct or the other (up or down). Connect the clips (if I remember correctly) to the two push on connector male pieces on the pull down motor. Look where you removed the switch. Hopefully you did not break off the alignment tab that slides into the receiver slot on the motor by the retainer screw. When you press the switch closed, as the trunk lid would when closing (not slammed like some would do, intent upon breaking everything!), the pull down will either extend or retract. This at least allows you to determine if the motor is good/bad or the switch is good/bad.

Take your time. I found it very frustrating and easy to "forget" what I'd just done so writing it out may help.

Good luck. The parts are hard to find in a JY as most are damaged by dolts getting into or slaming the trunk with the card dead. eBay or perhaps Fred, our favorite forum parts seller can help.

Richard Snipes
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-10-2010, 10:34 AM
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I have a parts Roady Sedan without the pulldown option. If you are interested, I could sell you the parts to delete it...
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-10-2010, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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im having a hard time understanding the process of testing the switch. the top piece is the trunk solenoid the bottom two are the motor and switch.

what do i connect to where?

Lightbulb does get juice i was wrong. trunk still wont go down

Last edited by Milkman; 10-10-2010 at 11:57 AM.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-10-2010, 12:17 PM
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The switch that actuates the pull down action, as mentioned above is tied to the lock release mechanism on the the lid itself. Easy way to check if it is working or not is disconnect the connector on the pull down motor itself, probe pin B with a meter preferably, check for ground when the switch on the back side of the trunk release actuator on the lid itself is closed or pushed up.
But if all that you have is a test light then, get something like a paper clip and put it in pin B connect the ground lead of the test light to this, then probe the prick of the test light into pin A. On the backside of the trunk release actuator on the lid itself there is a switch, push up on it, does the light, light. if not it is a bad switch or screwed up connection.
It could be te switch on the pull down motor itself. See attached drawing, I think that I have an extra motor, just let me know what you find out.
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Mike
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-10-2010, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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a and b are both on the harness for the switch on top? theres 2 a and 2 bs 2 on the switch and 2 on the harness from the chasis electricals.
Your saying to put a lead into B from the chasis to A on the switch device on top?

i can move the motor up and down by using the orange lead and the black ground.
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-10-2010, 01:40 PM
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No disconnect the connector on the motor itself,

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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-10-2010, 02:04 PM
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Let me break it down a little further for you,

Do you have a meter or a test light?

- with everything connected and the motor in the up position i.e. trunk lid open push the lever switch on the back of the trunk release latch assembly. Does the motor move? Does it move if you wiggle the switch?

- if not, pull connector off the switch at the latch assembly and jumper the pins together, does the motor move? It should. If it doesn't check for ground at pin B the black wire at this switch, do you have ground? you can suspect bad switch or the wire going to the motor itself to pin B

-leave jumper in connector at the trunk lock switch as noted above, disconnect electrical connector on the MOTOR, check for ground at pin B, is it present? if not suspect faulty wiring.

If you have gotten to this step and the wiring checks out and the switch operates then it is the motor switch that is on the top of the motor, looks like a black flapper. this is the switch that reverses the polarity on the motor to make it move in the opposite direction when you release the trunk lid.

Hope this helps.

This may help operation description from the FSM
Battery voltage is applied at all times to the Striker Motor within the Rear Compartment Lid Pull-Down Actuator. The polarity to the Striker Motor is determined by the position of the Striker Switches. In position "1," ground will be available through the Rear Compartment Lid Pull-Down Switch whenever the Deck Lid is shut. With the Rear Compartment Lid Pull-Down Switch closed. the Striker Motor retracts the Striker Unit until the Striker Switches are moved to position "2." In position "2," ground will be available through the Rear Compartment Limit Switch once the Rear Compartment Lid is opened. When the Rear Compartment Lid is opened, the Striker Motor extends the Striker Unit until the Striker Switches are moved to Position "1."

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