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Fuel Sending Unit - GM vs Spectra

15K views 32 replies 12 participants last post by  Fred Kiehl  
#1 · (Edited)
I currently have the Spectra Fuel Sending Unit (SU) that was installed about 4 years ago while on the Road/Vacation. While installing the Racetronix FP Kit and Intank Harness, I noticed some issues with the Spectra SU…..
1) The ground wire going to the bulkhead fitting was under sized.
2) The Fuel Gauge Wire (Blue) was soldered directly to the Resistor Board.
3) Refurbishing the SU Float Resistor is different on these.

I also have a spare GM Sending unit that has a damaged metal tube that I was going to use for parts. With the exception of the Wiring to the Resistor Board for the Float Assembly, both the GM and Spectra SU’s share similar parts and they can be used across both units. This pic shows the 2 SU’s broken down into all their pieces with the GM unit on the right.

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I wanted to use the GM Float Assembly/resistor on the Spectra SU since it had connectors that matched the intank harness that was sent with the Racetronix kit. However, after following the process to “refurbish the Sending Unit” found in this thread...
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=235185&highlight=refurbish+sending+unit
...I found that the ohm’s reading at full was only 82 ohms. With this reading the gas gauge on the cluster only registered about 8/10s Full with the Float at Full. After checking the Spectra Float level, I found that the Resistance reading was spot on for both Full and Empty and changed smoothly as the float was moved. The problem with using the Spectra Assembly is that the Racetronix Harness wont work unless its modified. Here is a pic of all 3 harnesses, Spectra on the Left, Racetronix in the Middle and the GM harness on the Right.

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The other issue was that unlike the GM unit described in the “Refurb” thread, the Spectra unit is riveted together and has the 2 ground wires attached at the Rivets. If you wish to “refurb” this unit as well then you will need to drill out the rivets. I wanted to refurb it while I had things apart and decided that re-assembly with some stainless Screws would give a good point to anchor the ground wires. Here is the unit after I just drilled out the rivets and took it apart.


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Once I removed the Plastic housing that contains the resistor board from the metal bracket, I was able to use similar cleaning methods described in the Refurb thread. Pic of it removed.


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Once removed, you can then see how the swing arm for the float can be removed and like the GM unit, it also uses a spring to connect the circuit. I removed the Spring and cleaned all contact points of it as well as the housing.


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As was mentioned, the Spectra unit has a tiny ground wire and does not use the Spade type terminals that the GM unit does. The racetronix harness is designed to work with the GM unit and a little modding was needed to get this to work with the Spectra Float Assembly.

Since the ground terminal of the Spectra SU was attached with a ring Terminal to the rivet, I decided to cut off the spade connector of the Racetronix harness and crimp on and Solder a Ring terminal instead. Here is a picture of the modified Racetronix Harness on the right.


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As you can see the Purple wire on the Racetronix Harness is too short and also has a Spade Connector for the GM SU. Using a Safety Pin, I just removed this wire from the Plastic Bulk Head Connector of the Racetronix Harness. I then removed the Blue wire (why its Blue and not Purple I dunno) from the Spectra SU and installed it in the Racetronix Bulk Head Connector. The result can be seen in this pic with the Purple Wire not being used at all.

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Once this was complete, I began to reassemble the Float Assembly using Stainless #8 ¾” 32 thread bolts and matching Nuts and washers. I used a flat washer on both sides along with a Lock Washer on the nut side and also doubled up 2 nuts on the end and tightened the nuts into each other as the German’s say “gudentite” to prevent them from backing off from vibration. I considered using Nylon topped nuts but was concerned they may dissolve being submersed in Gas. Here’s a couple pics of the Spectra float assembly put back together.

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Once it was put back together, it was then mounted back to the Plastic Pump Housing and all was connected back up before installing back in the tank. As a test and before installing the SU/Fuel Pump assembly back in the tank, I connected the 3 wire harness and verified that the Cluster Gauge worked correctly and that I had good Ground and 12V to the Pump. A couple of pics of the whole unit before it went back in the tank

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Hopefully this helps someone out that is also looking to replace their harness, FP or Refurbish the SU and has an aftermarket SU in the tank. I’m not certain, but I believe that GM has also changed their stock replacement part and it now uses a similar Float Assembly as the Spectra. So you may need to mod it in a similar fashion if using a stock type harness.
 
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#2 ·
Wanted to update this as someone was just asking me a question about a Pump install and I noticed some key points that I did not mention before.

There are actually 4 main differences that I may not have touched fully on the 4th but its obvious once you look at things. I would say the 4th item I should have included is also around the Ground Wire on the sending unit. Not only is it what I felt...under sized, but it is permanently fixed to the sending unit and does not use a Spade connector to the SU. This is worth mentioning cause you will not be able to replace the Pump Harness by just unplugging it like you would on the old/original Stock GM Sending unit.

The harness supplied by Racetronix also is for the original style sending unit. I explained this to Racetronix but don't think they were interested in providing a new option here. This is worth mentioning because not only do the Spectra Sending units offered differ greatly from the original GM units. But I have also found that the NEW "GM Replacement Sending Unit's" are also designed the same as the Spectra Replacement.

So just be aware that if you have a replaced sending unit in your car, odds are high that you won't be able to just unplug the Intank harness and replace it unless it's the original style SU. Which is a shame cause a lot of harness issues are usually found with melted insulation and should be replaced anyway while you're in the tank. You may have to either Splice the wire(s) or take apart the sending unit to improve on this somewhat. Good Luck.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the update!

Would you happen to recall if the Racetronix harness connector fits the GM factory style pump?

When I rebuilt my SU, the factory harness had burned connections, but the aftermarket replacements from multiple brands all had wiring smaller than factory. I was lucky enough to be able to salvage my factory wires by cutting them back and using some parts from the replacement harnesses and soldering it back together.

If the Racetronix harness would work with a factory style pump or with a simple mod to the connector, that could be another option if the original wires can't be reused.


Jim
 
#4 ·
the harness I got with their pump was entirely different from the factory pump. Both the connector and I believe the pins used on those wires were different. You should be able to see it in some of the pics above....much larger, has a locking clip and just setup different than stock.

So you could not even just move the wires from one connector to the other. You would have to splice wires again to use the harness with a factory replacement pump. Unless they offer a intank harness that would work with the factory pump connector.

The same is true going to a aftermarket pump like racetronix or Walbro offer. If you look at the Walbro Kit that is sold, they include the FP connector with pigtail for their pump to splice into the factory harness.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for pointing out the differences - I also checked out the in-tank harness on the Racetronix website ($20).

I see that there'd be some cutting and soldering involved, but to me the end product looks like it would be an improvement over the replacement aftermarket offerings. I may get one just to see what's involved and to have it on hand.

Hopefully this info helps someone looking for in-tank wiring - ... slim pickin's out there.


Jim
 
#6 ·
I soldered the wiring for the pump to the pass through. I used double wires to make sure they were not too light for the current draw. If you solder them, you never have to worry about the connection. Make sure you know how to solder correctly before attempting it. Do not get the connector and the pump overly hot. I used a small heat sink to limit the amount of heat that gets to the plastic. You can use an alligator clip, or forceps for a heat sink. Tin your connector pins and your wire to make it faster at the pins.
 
#7 ·
Update perhaps?

It appears as though Racetronix may have upgraded this kit since the last post on this thread. It looks as though they have removed the ground blade style connector and replaced it with a ring connector, however they left the purple sending unit blade connector. I have the Delphi unit picture below. I just got these items (Delphi assembly and Racetronix harnesses and pump).


This is very useful info and thank you very much for posting it. I have yet to be confirmed on the Racetronix forum so I do not yet have access to the instructions. When I first looked at this today I was very confused. I'd like to ask some questions to see if you agree with where I believe everything should go.



  1. I believe points E & C in the picture below (rivets) should be drilled out and replaced with the screws mentioned above. Both must be drilled out so that the sender unit may be removed.
  2. Connector 1 should be attached to point E.
  3. Connector 2 should either be cut off and the wire extended or replaced completely and soldered to point D. Another option would be to remove the Connector 2 purple wire completely and install the blue wire from point D in the wiring connector from the Racetronix harness.
  4. The kit came with the wire I labeled as Unknown Wire. I cannot find out where this should go. I see that the new Delphi unit has a blade connector (Connector A in the picture. My best guess is that the unknown wire would connect to Connector A and then be attached as a ground to either point E or C.
  5. The kit also came with something that looks like cement glue and also a small tube of silicon lubricant. Where would these items be used?



Image



Thanks,
Brandon
 
#8 · (Edited)
It appears as though Racetronix may have upgraded this kit since the last post on this thread. It looks as though they have removed the ground blade style connector and replaced it with a ring connector, however they left the purple sending unit blade connector. I have the Delphi unit picture below. I just got these items (Delphi assembly and Racetronix harnesses and pump).


This is very useful info and thank you very much for posting it. I have yet to be confirmed on the Racetronix forum so I do not yet have access to the instructions. When I first looked at this today I was very confused. I'd like to ask some questions to see if you agree with where I believe everything should go.



  1. I believe points E & C in the picture below (rivets) should be drilled out and replaced with the screws mentioned above. Both must be drilled out so that the sender unit may be removed.
  2. Connector 1 should be attached to point E.
  3. Connector 2 should either be cut off and the wire extended or replaced completely and soldered to point D. Another option would be to remove the Connector 2 purple wire completely and install the blue wire from point D in the wiring connector from the Racetronix harness.
  4. The kit came with the wire I labeled as Unknown Wire. I cannot find out where this should go. I see that the new Delphi unit has a blade connector (Connector A in the picture. My best guess is that the unknown wire would connect to Connector A and then be attached as a ground to either point E or C.
  5. The kit also came with something that looks like cement glue and also a small tube of silicon lubricant. Where would these items be used?



Image



Thanks,
Brandon
Interesting, looks like Rtronx changed the design of their intank harness. I mentioned the newer style SU to them but they didn't sound interested. What I'm wondering is why did they add that 4th (Blue) wire that appears like it goes to the Red Pump wire as well? You may need to ask them what their thinking is on this, but assuming you have a caprice/Impala, then you should just have 3 wires at the bulkhead of the SU. I believe some of the Caddy or other cars had a 4th wire for some reason.

Looking at the basics of a b-body wiring, you should just have 3 wires at the rear bumper which I believe are Gray (hot), Black (ground), and Purple (gauge). Then a 3 wire harness goes from the bumper, to the top of the tank to the yellow bulkhead connector in the SU. Did you also get ractronix bulkhead harness? How many wires in that?

looking at what you got, here's what I may do. You need to use the Rtronx harness from the fuel pump and the black ring would got to a drilled out rivet replaced with screw/nut and this will provide ground for the the gauge.

Then remove the purple wire from the Black connector of the Rtronx harness....this will be replaced with the SU blue wire.

Remove the SU blue wire at the black stock connector for the bulkhead and install it where you removed the purple wire.

I think that's it cause you will now connect the black plastic connector of the Rtronx harness to the stock SU bulkhead plug. At this connection, you should have your supply voltage and ground coming in on the gray and black wires from the 3 wire bumper connector. The blue wire in the ractronix connector should not be connected to anything at the bulkhead connector and could probably just be left there or snip it off at the plugs on both sides.....DONT cut the red wire doing this or tic tic tic BOOM!!! 0:).

Hopefully this craziness makes sense. Good luck and let us know if you get any details on this change/why from Rtronx.
 
#9 ·
I was just on their site and saw the response to your question and the "why" the supplied glue. Hadn't been there for a while and they got a little "testy" with me and closed my last thread. Still not sure what that 4th wire is supposed to be used for.

Anyway, it looks like they supplied some bolt that they expect you to drill a hole in the top of the SU lid to act as a grounding lug. All this is really doing differently than what I did is using the SU lid as a grounding point as opposed to drilling out the rivets and doing the grounding there at the metal bracket. . just not sure if I like drilling an additional hole in the SU over what I did. If you are concerned over any warranty they provide, you may want to follow what they recommend.
 
#10 ·
Just wanted to add this to save you (and Racetronix) a phone call:

Racetronix does not sell a replacement for the stock in-tank harness for a stock fuel pump because it only supports around 14 amps through the MetriPack 150 fuel pump connector and their Walbro 255 pump needs more than that. BUT... if you were inclined to build one, the part numbers you want are:
  • BCWS-001 Universal Bulkhead Wiring System - 4 Way (includes an upgraded version of the bulkhead connector with four 14-gauge wires - double up your ground!)
  • RCS-013 Connector Set - 3 Way Weather Pack (connects to the factory fuel tank harness at the rear bumper)
  • RCS-030 Connector Set, M/P 150 US, Female (connects to the factory fuel pump).

Total cost is around $56 plus shipping. This replaces wires all the way from the fuel pump to the factory body harness plug at the rear bumper.

If you're going to an upgraded pump with the larger connector, the BCWA-BLT1 is a pre-assembled solution which includes the ITWH-040 (not sold separately).
 
#11 ·
it only supports around 14 amps through the MetriPack 150 fuel pump connector and their Walbro 255 pump needs more than that.

If the Walbro 255 pump draws a average current higher than 14 Amps the stock wiring will not deliver enough power. For best results 10 or 8 gauge. Stock wire path is approximately 25 Feet. A more direct route could use 12ga. The shorter the run the smaller the wire.
 
#14 ·
Update - if you bought one of the newer sending units with the black rubber curly-Q hose not rated for pressure (2018-2020 vintage, roughly), it will split in about 300 miles. You can replace it with Goodies Speed 75114. You'll need to use a hair dryer and some needlenose pliers to flare the plastic ends slightly, but then you can push it on. Yes, it's tough, yes it can be done. No, it won't leak or blow off after you finish.

 
#16 ·
I was upgrading my fuel pump and lines, so I thought I would check my sender resistance while I was “there”. It was bad, and the fine wire was broken. I did a barbaric job of trying to solder the wire, and accidentally soldered the fine wire to the copper strip. Now I have a constant connection with no resistance variation.
I can’t seem to find a replacement fuel sender anywhere.
Does anyone know where I can find a sender? Looking to buy something with the best quality I can get (as I hope never to do this again).
Thank you in advance.
Mike
 
#17 ·
If you are looking for the single part, you can not get it. other than from a used junk yard unit. The whole sender can be bought on ebay, Rock Auto, or Amazon for a variety of prices. If you are getting an entire new unit, get one that is for the 94-96 cars, because it is spring loaded, and presses the end on the bottom of the tank at all times alleviating most of the low fuel stumbles of the earlier models.
 
#18 ·
Thank you Fred.
Rock Auto, Ebay, and various other searches all came up empty for the last two weeks. I did find an Advanced Autoparts listing, but the reviews said that Advanced sent the wrong part and it did not fit. Before responding here, I took one more look and found a Dorman unit on Ebay. I overpaid, but I bought it.
I had only messed up my resistor, but I was happy to get an entire new holder, as I have to cut mine up to get the Ti450 pump to fit in the sleeve. Having a spare is nice when you are cutting something up. I will probably even save the OEM unit and cut up the Dorman part.
Thank you.
Mike
 
#19 ·
I just bought an AC Delco unit on ebay. Part number MU2430
 
#21 ·
I totally rebuilt my original unit when I put a monster Walbro 900000262 400 lph pump for my 454.
 
#25 ·
I totally rebuilt my original unit when I put a monster Walbro 900000262 400 lph pump for my 454.
Sorry to keep the banter going, but I am learning a lot of good stuff here. Fred, how did you modify the fuel pump bracket to accommodate the larger diameter at the bottom of your larger fuel pump? Do you happen to snap a picture?
Either way, thank you for helping me find an AC Delco sender period; let alone at a great price!
 
#22 ·
Damn! Good mention! I just paid $160 or so for a Dorman one maybe 3 weeks ago now. Still brand new in the box. At an $80 difference, might be worth sending this Dorman one back!

Is the a Delco sender that includes a new pump as well, plug and play? I think I remember seeing one on Rockauto but it was on a long backorder? Never thought to look on ebay....
 
#23 ·
Gotta be more careful on ebay regarding counterfeit parts...
 
#26 · (Edited)
I just received the unit, and the seller lied about the part. It is a SEDAN unit. I am sending it back. Do not buy the MU2430 if you have a wagon.
 
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#28 ·
Just to add, FWIW, I bought a Spectre sending unit for my 96 build and the sending unit was dead out of the box, no ohm reading at all. Replaced it with a Dorman one that works fine lol If you're doing the job, be sure to check before you bolt the tank back up.
 
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#29 ·
Pics of the sender.
197310
197311
197312
197313
 
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#33 ·
I believe that is what I used, but the nut to seal it had to be thin so the line nut did not bind before it got tight. I still had to use a dremel and round end mill bit to smooth the in side path. The manufacturer drilled from both ends, and left a large burr inside the fitting. When I was done, it had a smooth transition.