Here she is...

 

.....

 

This is just me, but I think you should sit back, take a xanax and rethink what you're about to do to that show room gem. I usually agree with to each their own but that seems criminal to me. I know it's been done and I'm sure someone here will be happy to direct you in the process. I think the cost is going to more than air shocks. This is most likely the beginning. https://southsidemachineperformance...ce.com/products/extended-length-arms-for-lifted-donks-gm-a-b-d-and-g-body-style

Mark: Snowman-33

 

I did think really hard about maybe just going with chrome stock wheels, but I’m one of those over the top kind of guys. I’m no stranger to Custom fitment. I know the extended control arms is just the tip of the iceberg. I will need springs, bump stops and shocks, as well as the wheels and tires. My car is practically new but it is 20 plus years old. For that reason, I am doing the bushing and suspension upgrades. I have about a $2,000 budget to get the height and ride to where it needs to be before putting on some 24” wheels. I bought this car a good while ago as a daily driver to keep the miles off my foreign car. But when I saw the miles going up on the SS, I garaged IT instead of my Jaguar! Lol I have 24s on it also. Supercharged XJ 5.0 with smaller pulley, custom dynontune, Avery Satin Pearl wrap and RSC tuning exhaust. Runs 12.5s in the quarter on the 24s!

 

“To each his own!”

-johnny,


Like 'ol Mark I winced a little too when catching how low your miles are. Pay us no matter mind we're just terminally patterned to these crap tubs without insulting them with the quarry truck look.



Now back to your vision. First off, nice Jag. To me, wheels don't enter 'nuisance clown car' territory until larger than the fender opening. - whatever the car.



I'm interested what that number is for our car, without have to do any lift. Maybe the winning ticket if not locked into a particular size?

 

-johnny,


Like 'ol Mark I winced a little too when catching how low your miles are. Pay us no matter mind we're just terminally patterned to these crap tubs without insulting them with the quarry truck look.

Now back to your vision. First off, nice Jag. To me, wheels don't enter 'nuisance clown car' territory until larger than the fender opening. - whatever the car.



I'm interested what that number is for our car, without have to do any lift. Maybe the winning ticket if not locked into a particular size?

I appreciate the compliments!!

I think the threshold on the car is 24’s without a lift. I they can fit but only with a tiny 25 series tire, but will rub a bit under some circumstances. I have tires this skinny all the way around my Jag. Been thru 3 rims and too many tires to count. Also, Since they are a custom build wheel, I have to go a week without the car while they are being made. Anyway, I want as much on as possible and don’t want to rub. I also need the rear wheel centered. I appreciate the feedback!! Here are some pics of the tragedies of 25s on 24s in the 713. This is why I must do at least a 30.

 

Welcome to the forum--glad you're here, and you have a couple of very nice cars for us to drool over! The forum has given me a lot of great info and advice.


I'm gonna have to disagree with what you're doing

.

Style matters—I get that. But...you say you've "Been thru 3 rims and too many tires to count." So, you drive your cars, and sometimes fast, so performance/safety counts more than style.



Do you realllly want to keep driving a 2 ton car at speed on lousy Texas roads with brutal pavement temperatures (or heavy rain) with a rim size that no GM or Jaguar engineer would ever recommend, with wheels that keep failing and cheap Chinese tires?



Are the tire sidewalls blowing out on pothole impacts, or the tires de-laminating from impact, heat, weight, speed? Any metal fatigue/cracking in your wheels? Doesn't really matter--the stuff you have just doesn't work for your car and conditions.
​

​

Carmakers don’t use giant wheels because they are fragile and cause all sorts of problems. Major tire brands don't make ultra-low-profile tires for giant wheels because they are fragile and expensive to design/make, and the relatively few customers who want them tend to be price-sensitive, so the tires have to cost less, which works against R&D and quality. You have the smoking-gun evidence in front of you.​

​

Your retailers obviously don’t care because they keep selling you stuff that doesn’t work with your car and operating conditions. That should piss you off.​

​

I’ve ragged on giant rims before. If style matters more than worse handling, worse acceleration, worse fuel consumption, worse braking, worse comfort, worse wear-and-tear on your suspension and drivetrain, worse tire life, and worse safety, go ahead. But, if you're going to actually drive the car, limit the size to where you can find parts that deserve some trust, parts from real brands with real engineers and reliable manufacturing. It’ll still screw up your car, but at least you can hope the wheels and tires won’t kill you, or somebody else.

 

Welcome to the forum--glad you're here, and you have a couple of very nice cars for us to drool over! The forum has given me a lot of great info and advice.


I'm gonna have to disagree with what you're doing

.

Style matters—I get that. But...you say you've "Been thru 3 rims and too many tires to count." So, you drive your cars, and sometimes fast, so performance/safety counts more than style.



Do you realllly want to keep driving a 2 ton car at speed on lousy Texas roads with brutal pavement temperatures (or heavy rain) with a rim size that no GM or Jaguar engineer would ever recommend, with wheels that keep failing and cheap Chinese tires?



Are the tire sidewalls blowing out on pothole impacts, or the tires de-laminating from impact, heat, weight, speed? Any metal fatigue/cracking in your wheels? Doesn't really matter--the stuff you have just doesn't work for your car and conditions.
​

​

Carmakers don’t use giant wheels because they are fragile and cause all sorts of problems. Major tire brands don't make ultra-low-profile tires for giant wheels because they are fragile and expensive to design/make, and the relatively few customers who want them tend to be price-sensitive, so the tires have to cost less, which works against R&D and quality. You have the smoking-gun evidence in front of you.​

​

Your retailers obviously don’t care because they keep selling you stuff that doesn’t work with your car and operating conditions. That should piss you off.​

​

I’ve ragged on giant rims before. If style matters more than worse handling, worse acceleration, worse fuel consumption, worse braking, worse comfort, worse wear-and-tear on your suspension and drivetrain, worse tire life, and worse safety, go ahead. But, if you're going to actually drive the car, limit the size to where you can find parts that deserve some trust, parts from real brands with real engineers and reliable manufacturing. It’ll still screw up your car, but at least you can hope the wheels and tires won’t kill you, or somebody else.

To answer your question.. YES I DO. Lol I still want to ride with big wheels.

I understand your emphasis on the changes. I really do, but I’m not one of those guys that’s just slaps bigger wheels on and expects the car to perform the same. I’ve upgraded the brake system on my XJ to compensate for the extra weight of the 24’s. I plan to do the same on the SS. The wheels on the Jag are custom made Lexani’s, not terribly expensive but not cheap. Just above $3,000 total wheels and tires. The tires are cheap yes ($160 ea), but that’s all they make in a 255/25/24 (front) I originally bought TOYO tires but the 30 series don’t fit. I’ll go with some on the SS. I’ve bent wheels and took chunks out of tires from being pinched on potholes. I’ve NEVER lost air or been stranded. Tires have never separated. So with that being said the tires are good. I think it has to do with the size that they still hold air after a brutal hit. I just have to replace a tire, rim or both after an incident. It may matter to some but I don’t care what it cost. I like the look and I have the money to deal with the consequences. Can’t blame an aluminum wheel for bending when hitting a deep pothole at 70 mph on 3/4 inch of tire. I feel I should pay more attention lol So I do know what I’m getting myself into. I don’t plan on driving it much. The jaguar is my primary means of transportation.

 

Cool--sounds like you've worked through this before and are familiar with the issues. In that case, go for it!

There's a lot of upgrade info in the Brakes section of the forum.

Re the rear shocks, the air shocks out there (Delco, Monroe, Gabriel) aren't very sophisticated. I loved the concept of the electronic level control on my Fleetwood, but even the air shocks I liked the best, the Delco, didn't dampen on compression very much and the rebound wasn't very controlled at all. It was useful for staying level with a trailer or a trunkful, but not much else. The GM ELC isn't on your car but could be added, but it's primitive, esp. the shocks, and not recommended. I recently abandoned the ELC/air shocks and went to Bilstein shocks all around--everyone (inc. me) seems to love them. Not harsh, great compression/rebound behavior. Added Airlift 1000 bladders in the coils, kept at the minimum 5psi normally but I can bump them up for heavy loads. Mine's a manual fill-valve set-up, but Airlift does sell an autoleveler.

 

That’s the info I’ve been hounding!

I’ve had air shocks on a few caddy’s. One STS I opted for the manual fill bc I had a compressor out. I had a lot of stereo equipment and I could get the height right. So those were perfect. I wonder if I can put enough pressure in them to clear the larger wheel without rubbing on bumps and dips? Is there a downside to riding with them filled? I’ve been looking into Blistein and Monroe SS. I’ve seen adjustables also. I’m trying to get a little above stock height so I can squeeze them 30 series under w no rubbing. I just need to get ahold of some ppl who have made all the mistakes already so I don’t have to lol

 

Update!! 24” SD Forged billet “Reps” sorry guys, but I love it! Replaced the entire suspension without modifications. Went with air shocks on the rear and adjustable rear control arms so center the wheel. I’ve been driving and enjoying it a lot more and currently have 10,500 miles.

 

Looks amazing!

Where can i buy a set? I have been looking everywhere for a set!

Thanks

Dell

 

Bilstein front shocks, AC delco air shock rears, UMI rear adjustable trailering arms, Powerstop Rotors and Ceramic pads, Hotchkis sway bars, Movetech Supreme control arms, bushings and rods/links. Rides as smooth as a Cadillac!!

 

Wasup bro I hope this message gets to you.. I’m running similar set up as u.. I got umi sways nd trailing arms.. blist. Shocks im purchaching mayb moog upper nd lower control arms but seeing ur post i might shift to the move tech i saw on rock auto…. My issue is springs my springs sags from the left side( driver side) causing to rub on dips and bumps did u swap those out too or kept ur stock ones. Sucks I can’t seem to find anything close to stock without going coil over. I was told hotchkiss would drop it too much. Let me know if this gets to u thanks