[BALLSS]

Op

I have changed 3 sets of valve springs with heads on and motor in car. Bringing the piston to TDC the valve drops around 1/4"

with #1 at TDC you can do cyl 1 & 6
rotate 90 degrees and do 5 & 8
rotate 90 degrees and do 7 & 4
rotate 90 degrees and do 3 & 2

if doing springs, replace valve stem seals. FelPro Viton. New seals also help hold the valve up

the Crane 99473-1 spring compressor allows you to do both I & E at the same time. Back when I bought mine it was $100, worth every penny

 

[BALLSS]

What about something like this?

15 lb. Capacity Telescoping Magnetic Pickup Tool

Amazing deals on this 15Lb Telescoping Magnetic Pickup Tool at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

That "can" be used after the new spring has been compressed to "lift" valve up if needed assuming you are using a spring compressor like the Crane one I posted in #9 or another type that does not cover the top of the spring.

Given, with cyl at TDC, the valve drops very little I am able to compress the new spring enough to lift valve up all the way to get valve locks on without needing the pen magnet...but I do use it more to extract the keepers once old spring is compressed so they don't fall in/onto head...of course you always want to stuff paper towels/rags into any oil drip cavity to prevent any part from going into motor when doing spring swap on a assembled motor

Also you can put an air hose fitting with spark plug threaded end to use compressed air. My issue with that method is the compressor runs alot, fing noise, and if you use 2 much air pressure the motor spins pushing the cyl down unless you put trans (stick) in gear or otherwise prevent motor from spinning. If piston is at bottom of stroke....a valve will drop all the way in the cyl if you lose air pressure.

Fortunately the LT1 with piston up the valve drops very little