i’m having a problem with my 1996 impala SS. My alternator is getting very hot. When the car is not running it shows voltage from the battery into the back of the alternator. When the car started it does not show voltage from the battery to the back of the alternator. Using a power pro it shows zero voltage at the battery and the back of the alternator. So if someone can please help me out. I don’t know why when the car started it won’t show voltage from the battery or the back of the alternator. It shows zero voltage. But when the car is turned off it shows 12 V. Try to find out when the car is running why is it causing the alternator to get so hot. I have replaced the battery and the alternator twice.
gjames_1996
Alternator getting hot
On the alternator getting hot, I'm pretty sure it's quite normal. since it's aluminum It can suck up quite a bit of heat from the engine, plus it makes a lot of heat on it's own. Mine gets much to hot to touch normally and it seems to be in perfect working order.
I'm not sure what you have but to check voltage you need a voltmeter/ multimeter, if you don't already have one, a basic one is all you need and they're pretty cheap.
With that, checking voltage is very simple black lead to negative/ ground, and red lead to positive. Nearly every bare metal surface in the engine bay should be a ground and have little resistance to the negative battery post.
The voltage between the positive battery post and the post on the back of the alternator should to ground should be same regardless if the car is running or not. The voltage at the battery (and the alternator) with the key off should be around 12V, and the voltage at the same places should be around 13-14V.
If the car starts fast, runs good, and all electronical bits work fine and the only issue is the alternator getting hot, then your SS should be fine. But, it still wouldn't hurt to check the alternator temperature with an infrared thermometer.
Hope I helped!
I'm not sure what you have but to check voltage you need a voltmeter/ multimeter, if you don't already have one, a basic one is all you need and they're pretty cheap.
With that, checking voltage is very simple black lead to negative/ ground, and red lead to positive. Nearly every bare metal surface in the engine bay should be a ground and have little resistance to the negative battery post.
The voltage between the positive battery post and the post on the back of the alternator should to ground should be same regardless if the car is running or not. The voltage at the battery (and the alternator) with the key off should be around 12V, and the voltage at the same places should be around 13-14V.
If the car starts fast, runs good, and all electronical bits work fine and the only issue is the alternator getting hot, then your SS should be fine. But, it still wouldn't hurt to check the alternator temperature with an infrared thermometer.
Hope I helped!
Check voltage at battery with vehicle running ,and off...
Unhook amplifier ,and repeat test. Compare readings.
Unhook amplifier ,and repeat test. Compare readings.
Sounds like you have a bad diode in the alternator and need a new US Alternator installed. Then have your battery load tested.
if you put your hand on the alternator after it’s been running a bit, you will burn your hand badly. It runs very hot. Normal.
You are either describing things oddly or you are not experienced with a voltage measurement. There are two wires into the alternator. One is big and is bolted on. That wire is a direct connection to the battery. Anything at anytime other than 12v (nom) is a failure of the wire.
The other connection is for field control. If that is not working, you will simply not get any “current” out of the alternator.
If the alternator is bad, no current, the car (battery) won’t last a day running around town.
You are either describing things oddly or you are not experienced with a voltage measurement. There are two wires into the alternator. One is big and is bolted on. That wire is a direct connection to the battery. Anything at anytime other than 12v (nom) is a failure of the wire.
The other connection is for field control. If that is not working, you will simply not get any “current” out of the alternator.
If the alternator is bad, no current, the car (battery) won’t last a day running around town.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
