They look like FLP's......but I'm not the authority on the early long tubes.......

KW

 

got rained on last night so didn't get much done.
routed wires on driver side. cyl.#1 and #5 are very close to my wire boots. gonna try the factory heat shields on these.

fwiw. the headers have 12001 stamped on the flanges.
i ground the block side welds smooth. they actually wern't that bad. i've seen worse.
took the motor mount loose, tilted motor with a jack n block of wood. they dropped right in.
used the cheapest mr.gasket gaskets. figured i'd blow them anyway. will get good ones when i get everything sorted out.

if anyone in the area wants some 96 ss exhaust manifolds and/or cats w/@ 120k miles on them, i got em.

 

They get real hot not coated, i had to take mine off and put some header wrap on around the header just around the area where the spark plugs are just so they wouldnt keep burning up while riding..

 

They're Dynomax 85012 JET Black Painted Headers.....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-85012/?image=large
Suprised you got them in without too much trouble, but yeah I'd watch your wires and such cause you'll have a fire on your hands in no time.....

 

the story: i've had a set of headers i pulled off of my camaro..........

They're Dynomax 85012 JET Black Painted Headers..........

Well duh!

They definately are not FLP's (what I said earlier .....) because they came off a Camaro.

And they may not even fit on a B-body.......in case that's your goal.

KW

 

despite the rain, i got them both in.
heat shields on both sides had to come out.
removed both valve covers.
removed both frame braces.
most plug wires, oil cooler, trans. cooler, and a/c lines will have to be wrapped.
have to reinstall starter, and alt.
also need to order collector reducers w/ o2 bungs.
hmm... wonder if o2 wires are long e'nuff?
this began as a center link and idler arm replacement. how'd i end up here?

 

oh, they have 3 inch collectors, not 2.5
pn 12001

 

pass. side very close to a/c lines and control arm. much more room for plugs on this side.
driver side just the opp. tubes bend in earlier to clear rear mounted stearing box i guess.
one more reason to buy good headers.
gonna spend more on heat wrap than anything.

 

Why don't you get them coated?

 

it would be nice but, honestly they ain't worth it. my inferior pics hide the pitting. they look ruff. these bad boys were chrome at one time. there was only a little bit left in the centers of the flanges when i stripped and re-painted them w/ vht high temp.
cost so far:
headers- free
cheapie gaskets- $10
bolts-$10
2 cans vht-@$14
antifreeze-$10

 

f-body a/c lines question

broke my a/c line! just had to give it one more shove. cracked it where the line meets the block

i guess now would be as good a time as any to convert to f-body a/c lines.
is anything necessary other than the block that goes to the back of the compressor and the lines? any prob. w/ the cross member?
i know the hard lines drops down then come towards the rear of the car. the b-body just come straight back.