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Well 2 are for the return line witch you dont need the other 2 are for the feed line now what you need to do is see how many o rings you ripped thats most likely whats wrong plus the clip
 
nada where can I get that fuel line repair kit from?
I got mine at Advance for $159 a couple of years back. Honestly the only part of the kit that makes it worthwhile is the installation tool. It seems to me that you could probably make a tool similar using a $15 quick clamp and some ingenuity. The rest of the kit is just spare plastic connectors and nylon fuel line.

Jim
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
IM GOING TO PARTS STORE TOMARROW AND HOPE TO FIX MY LEAK PROBLEM BUT ARE THESE O RINGS FROM AUTOZONE THE SAME??? THE OREILLY ONES ARE ALMOST $10 AND THESE ARE $4
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac.../O-Ring-Assortment/_/N-25zi?filterByKeyWord=FUEL+LINE+O+RINGS&fromString=search
 
NEVER MIND THEY GOT THE SAME PART NUMBERS, DID NOT DIFFERENT PARTS STORES SHARED THE SAME PART #s
800-013 is a Dorman PN, many stores will use the manufacturer PN so it is possible you will find the same number at various stores.

DANG HATE ORDERING SMALL PARTS AND IT HAS TO BE ORDERED,PROBLE BE MIDDLE OF THE WEEK BEFORE I CAN WORK ON IT:mad:
Did you check Oreilly? They are more expensive but I would not be surprised if they are in stock there. That would explain your price difference (more expensive because they keep on the shelf, less expensive because they order as-needed). I've paid more money for a lot of things at O'Reilly only because they were in stock there and I could pick it up same-day when I needed it.

FWIW my local O'Reilly lists that PN as in stock in store.

Makes parts shopping a little time consuming but I always call all of my stores to verify who has it in stock. If something has to be ordered in then I'll compare it with Amazon which can be pretty competitive when shipping in parts is required.
 
they sould fit dident it come with 2 3/8 and 2 5/16o rings? after i sent yo my pics i couldent stop thinking about my line not all they way on the line so got under there a few days ago and even with the clamp off the line i couldn't even get the fuel line off the connector so i cut it off again and it still wouldn't come off i had to melt the line then pull it off so then got back under there car and with a lot of lube {oil} i put the connector in and out a few time then on the 3rd try i pushed the whole connector in the feel line just like the oem line then i put the clamp just for peace of mind now it look 10x better lol
 
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Ok, looks like I got to get some o rings and maybe an install tool? Was the tool necessary Nadacop? How does the metal retainer come out to get to the o rings? Anyone know what part numbers I need? Thanks for any and all help!
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
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ok, looks like i got to get some o rings and maybe an install tool? Was the tool necessary nadacop? How does the metal retainer come out to get to the o rings? Anyone know what part numbers i need? Thanks for any and all help!
from looking at my retainer if you can bend the tabs inwords it will come out easier
 
Ok, looks like I got to get some o rings and maybe an install tool? Was the tool necessary Nadacop? How does the metal retainer come out to get to the o rings? Anyone know what part numbers I need? Thanks for any and all help!
I used the o-rings out of a replacement plastic end. The four prong retainer comes out by prying each prong gently toward the center of the connector until it is just inside the rim of the connector. I used a 90deg hooked pick. Once all four are inside the rim you can pull it up and out and the rest can be pulled out one part at a time and layed out for re-assembly. The installation tool makes life a whole lot simpler but it seems to me that someone on the Forum made their own and it worked out pretty well.

Jim
 
Think I got mine fixed by replacing just the orings with the dorman parts listed in this thread. $10 at my local Advance Auto Parts but they were in stock and hopefully I am done messing with it. I was unable to get it to push on when the parts back in the line. I ended up putting all the pieces onto the line off the fuel rail in the order pictured in this thread, and then just pushed the empty line back on over it all. Snapped right in place. Turning the key forward and priming the pump showed no more drips or fuel smell. Will pay close attention to it next week when I get exhaust on and fire it back up. I was able to find a you tube on the fuel line repair kit mentioned here. Looks like it could actually be kind of handy.
 
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