After reading several post I still can not seem to find the info I'm looking for. Thinkin about installing a Lt4 cam in my stock b body. I know I need to do all the bolt on mods (which I have started), but I'm not sure what all I would need to do to the motor to support the cam swap, and what would I gain. FYI I'm not looking for extreme performance, but I would like a little something nice to listen to while I'm cruising. Any and all info will be greatly appreciated.
ChevyBoiSwagg
LT4 Hot Cam.
1 reading
NEED vs. WANTCam Recommendation
This is probably a big can of worms, but I'll jump first.
The LT4 Hot cam is designed for a car that is at least 500 lbs. lighter and operating in the 4,000 - 6,000 RPM range most of the time. That is definitely not a description of our B-Body cars. Unless you are getting one dirt cheap, there are better choices than the LT4 Hot cam.
That said, what you need will be bigger injectors -- 30-lb per hour will be fine, 1.6 ratio rockers to go with the cam and a PCM flash.
You may want a 52 mm throttle body (58 mm would be overkill for this application) and a higher flowing fuel pump, like a Walbro 225.
This assumes you already have a cold air intake and headers w/ cat-back exhaust. I think you can expect an increase of about 20 HP, but that would be if you spend most of your time running at 4,000 RPM or above.
Honestly, with any cam you will want bigger injectors and a custom PCM flash. Beyond that, it's what you want to add to the build. A Comp Cam 304, 305 or 501 will will give you more power and more torque cat lower RPM, and will feel much better to drive. I would suggest going to the Comp Cam website, going to the Tech Support tab and then clicking on Cam Recommendation.
Like I said at the beginning, unless you are getting the LT4 Hot Cam dirt cheap, there are better options.
This is probably a big can of worms, but I'll jump first.
The LT4 Hot cam is designed for a car that is at least 500 lbs. lighter and operating in the 4,000 - 6,000 RPM range most of the time. That is definitely not a description of our B-Body cars. Unless you are getting one dirt cheap, there are better choices than the LT4 Hot cam.
That said, what you need will be bigger injectors -- 30-lb per hour will be fine, 1.6 ratio rockers to go with the cam and a PCM flash.
You may want a 52 mm throttle body (58 mm would be overkill for this application) and a higher flowing fuel pump, like a Walbro 225.
This assumes you already have a cold air intake and headers w/ cat-back exhaust. I think you can expect an increase of about 20 HP, but that would be if you spend most of your time running at 4,000 RPM or above.
Honestly, with any cam you will want bigger injectors and a custom PCM flash. Beyond that, it's what you want to add to the build. A Comp Cam 304, 305 or 501 will will give you more power and more torque cat lower RPM, and will feel much better to drive. I would suggest going to the Comp Cam website, going to the Tech Support tab and then clicking on Cam Recommendation.
Like I said at the beginning, unless you are getting the LT4 Hot Cam dirt cheap, there are better options.
Hotcam good cam.
If putting in a 350.
Degree the cam for 2 extra degrees advance.
You will be fine with stock Injectors.
Get a Bryan Herter Tune
120# Seat Pressure more than enough. Get Spring Retainer kit.
I like Howard ElectroPolished Springs but a good Beehive set works nicely.
Set of 3.73 gears and you will know what made the Hotcam popular.
If putting on iron heads.
Clean up the bowl and polish up the exhaust port.
D
If putting in a 350.
Degree the cam for 2 extra degrees advance.
You will be fine with stock Injectors.
Get a Bryan Herter Tune
120# Seat Pressure more than enough. Get Spring Retainer kit.
I like Howard ElectroPolished Springs but a good Beehive set works nicely.
Set of 3.73 gears and you will know what made the Hotcam popular.
If putting on iron heads.
Clean up the bowl and polish up the exhaust port.
D
Thanks I actually have rear with 373's just waiting to be put in. I will look up those springs you recommended.
OP
even if the Hot cam is free.....IMHO given the effort and supporting mods for $300 a more favorable cam costs I would get something else.
A cam swap is no small task and a LT4 cam is just not the best cam for a heavy B-body car that would perform better with a cam that makes low end TQ
any cam will perform better if you have head work done but if you are only looking to do a cam with stock heads than off the shelf cams like the COMP 501 or XFI 465
If you are looking for a poser cam with a choppy idle than the Hot cam with a lower idle sounds choppy....if that is what you are after
even if the Hot cam is free.....IMHO given the effort and supporting mods for $300 a more favorable cam costs I would get something else.
A cam swap is no small task and a LT4 cam is just not the best cam for a heavy B-body car that would perform better with a cam that makes low end TQ
any cam will perform better if you have head work done but if you are only looking to do a cam with stock heads than off the shelf cams like the COMP 501 or XFI 465
If you are looking for a poser cam with a choppy idle than the Hot cam with a lower idle sounds choppy....if that is what you are after
Do what Dan recommends, installing it 2 degrees, or even 3 degrees, advanced; and you can throw all those "lack of low end torque" comments right out the window.
Another spring kit option if you're sticking with the iron heads:
http://www.alexsparts.com/valve-spring-kit-sb-chevy-vortec-hi-perf-hyd-roller/
On any cam with more than stock intake duration, a bump in compression ratio will also help low end torque.
I understand one of your motives is "sound", but for performance, I'd be changing the torque converter also.
Another spring kit option if you're sticking with the iron heads:
http://www.alexsparts.com/valve-spring-kit-sb-chevy-vortec-hi-perf-hyd-roller/
On any cam with more than stock intake duration, a bump in compression ratio will also help low end torque.
I understand one of your motives is "sound", but for performance, I'd be changing the torque converter also.
Yes a Torque Converter.
A Yank3000SS would be perfect for street and racing.
Will feel like a stock converter until you nail it.
GM has .029 Head Gaskets. Fello are .039 for Iron Heads.
Milling the heads for compression has fitment issues.
Need a machinist who really understands this.
IMHO for the street stick with stock compression.
Bryan can hook you up with a 87 octane tune and save you $$ on gas purchases.
Premium is about a tenth quicker but not a seat in pants difference.
D
A Yank3000SS would be perfect for street and racing.
Will feel like a stock converter until you nail it.
GM has .029 Head Gaskets. Fello are .039 for Iron Heads.
Milling the heads for compression has fitment issues.
Need a machinist who really understands this.
IMHO for the street stick with stock compression.
Bryan can hook you up with a 87 octane tune and save you $$ on gas purchases.
Premium is about a tenth quicker but not a seat in pants difference.
D
This is not directed at the thread starter. It's just something I will never understand.
The cam is the part of the engine that determines your total power, RPM range, power band and other factors more than any other part in the engine. It's also the cheapest part to buy to make more power in the engine. So why try to make something work that is not right for your goals, power band, other engine parts and so on.
You can get a custom grind for $300 to $400, less than most good valve springs, that would be perfect for what you want and make that extra HP you were after in the first place. You're not saving any money by not getting a custom cam or the right cam. I bet you spend more than this on the next mod that makes less power than if you just had the right cam.
Don't buy a cam that might work or you will try to make it work. Your wallet will thank you as well as your engine
The cam is the part of the engine that determines your total power, RPM range, power band and other factors more than any other part in the engine. It's also the cheapest part to buy to make more power in the engine. So why try to make something work that is not right for your goals, power band, other engine parts and so on.
You can get a custom grind for $300 to $400, less than most good valve springs, that would be perfect for what you want and make that extra HP you were after in the first place. You're not saving any money by not getting a custom cam or the right cam. I bet you spend more than this on the next mod that makes less power than if you just had the right cam.
Don't buy a cam that might work or you will try to make it work. Your wallet will thank you as well as your engine
Good valve springs cost less than $100 for most of the we use.
All this resistance on the Hotcam. It is a good street cam!
It is near free and easy to tune and make it work.
Anymore Cam is just too much without a good TQ?
Not only that it will pass emissions.
D
All this resistance on the Hotcam. It is a good street cam!
It is near free and easy to tune and make it work.
Anymore Cam is just too much without a good TQ?
Not only that it will pass emissions.
D
I appreciate all of the info & opinions. As I was looking into the parts you guys recommend a few more things fell into my lap to go along with this steal. So with that being said I'm gonna try it & if I don't like it I'll Jst go with a different cam. In all honesty I'm not really loosing anything, but merely gaining experience.
Have at it.
I think you have a great attitude. Have at it, and when you're done share what you've learned.
I think you have a great attitude. Have at it, and when you're done share what you've learned.
I did this a few years ago on a 95 Caprice 9c1 car. . Installed a used Hotcam, degree the cam by 2 degrees ( with cam bushing in the trimming gear) and had 342 gears and 52mm TB and some flowtech headers, with a 2800 yank stall, nothing else but a pcm tune. Car was awesome with decent low end but excellent mid range. Sounded real good.
Just to add something, I usually go to the
Track and run on spray. I'm Also looking for a
Cam. I could of bought an lt4 hotcam
On ebay the other day for 160 shipped
But I didn't. I talked to Lloyd Elliot about
A cam for spray and he told me to still
stay with a small cam. Ok so I am probably
Going with a cc502 with my stock heads but
Does anybody think something a little bigger
Would be better since the spray will help move
The weight out of the gate. I'm spraying
125 shot.
Track and run on spray. I'm Also looking for a
Cam. I could of bought an lt4 hotcam
On ebay the other day for 160 shipped
But I didn't. I talked to Lloyd Elliot about
A cam for spray and he told me to still
stay with a small cam. Ok so I am probably
Going with a cc502 with my stock heads but
Does anybody think something a little bigger
Would be better since the spray will help move
The weight out of the gate. I'm spraying
125 shot.
Stock Pistons will break with the NOS.
Not on the first few passes but it will shatter the Hyperutetics.
NOS with Forged Pistons is the safe way to go.
Otherwise just stick with a good LE cam and Spring kit.
Until you are ready for a robust bottom end.
Otherwise you will be needing one the way you are going.
Plan better and save money. Frustration time.
$4000 will get you an all Forged Piston, rod, LE prepped heads and cam.
Provided you do not need a new cast 350 crank.
And you can add NOS all you want.
My two cents.
D
Not on the first few passes but it will shatter the Hyperutetics.
NOS with Forged Pistons is the safe way to go.
Otherwise just stick with a good LE cam and Spring kit.
Until you are ready for a robust bottom end.
Otherwise you will be needing one the way you are going.
Plan better and save money. Frustration time.
$4000 will get you an all Forged Piston, rod, LE prepped heads and cam.
Provided you do not need a new cast 350 crank.
And you can add NOS all you want.
My two cents.
D
I put one in my '91 TPI 'vette about five years ago, my first and only cam swap.
4* advanced, 1.6X1.5 rockers, all the bolt ons and head porting, 2600 stall speed convertor, 3.08's. After a tune it made 300rwhp@5k and 333tq@4k. It idled great and sounded sweet. Used the OE lifters without a problem. I liked the fact it was a GM cam.
Not sure about the weight factor as has been mentioned, but it ran great in the 'vette, best time 12.8 @108.
4* advanced, 1.6X1.5 rockers, all the bolt ons and head porting, 2600 stall speed convertor, 3.08's. After a tune it made 300rwhp@5k and 333tq@4k. It idled great and sounded sweet. Used the OE lifters without a problem. I liked the fact it was a GM cam.
Not sure about the weight factor as has been mentioned, but it ran great in the 'vette, best time 12.8 @108.
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