Read the sticky above that has been placed there to answer these questions, Download Qalo's Handbook.

That should get you started.

 

Go here: http://www.top-et.com/impalass/index.asp?SelectedClass=6&Sort=
and click on Class 6 in the top heading to highlight the bolt-on cars.
Or sort by clicking on "Class" in the second heading.
Anybody trapping 95 mph with car + driver weight of 4300 lbs is making 300 hp. If they're trapping 100 at that weight, they're making 350 hp.
For 4000 lb race weight, 98 mph indicates 300 hp, 103 mph indicates 350 hp,..........yada yada..

Look at their list of modifications by clicking on "detail".

 

Go here: http://www.top-et.com/impalass/index.asp?SelectedClass=6&Sort=
and click on Class 6 in the top heading to highlight the bolt-on cars.
Or sort by clicking on "Class" in the second heading.
Anybody trapping 95 mph with car + driver weight of 4300 lbs is making 300 hp. If they're trapping 100 at that weight, they're making 350 hp.
For 4000 lb race weight, 98 mph indicates 300 hp, 103 mph indicates 350 hp,..........yada yada..

Look at their list of modifications by clicking on "detail".
[/Q

Go here: http://www.top-et.com/impalass/index.asp?SelectedClass=6&Sort=
and click on Class 6 in the top heading to highlight the bolt-on cars.
Or sort by clicking on "Class" in the second heading.
Anybody trapping 95 mph with car + driver weight of 4300 lbs is making 300 hp. If they're trapping 100 at that weight, they're making 350 hp.
For 4000 lb race weight, 98 mph indicates 300 hp, 103 mph indicates 350 hp,..........yada yada..

Look at their list of modifications by clicking on "detail".

Hey link doesn't work got a 96 impala with corvette trans and I want to add more power what companies make aftermarket parts for power for this car

 

Are you looking for 300 hp at the tires or 300 at the flywheel? Big difference. Our cars were rated 260 from the factory at the flywheel.

Read the sticky Lance put together on "go fast basics." Get the car in perfect running condition and then upgrade from the back to the front - reared, then trans/convertor, then add power.

And here is one recipe for 300 hp to the tires with stock displacement, heads, and cam. http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=284641

 

Nice numbers Jonathan!

Funny, I went big with the 383 in the 96SS. Loved the no AC, cam surge, high stall TC, and tight harsh ride.
I actually was exhausted after driving it. Always needed to take a break from it.

Now have the high revving 357 in a 4000 pound race weight 9C1. It's a completely different beast. The 357
is fun and is pushing the envelop for "comfortable" street driving. It's rougher than the SS in all aspects.
A beater with a bad@ss drive train.

With the wagon, I plan on doing only all "bolt" on stuff and keeping the majority of it stock. But I am already
thinking TC and gears. Never ends!

After having a radical setup with the SS, I am really enjoying the closer to stock wagon more and more. Just
don't the radical setups anymore. Been there done that.

 

hp gains

thanks bolt on terror.After seeing all the mods, they pretty much only upgraded the gears to 3.73, torque converter, headers/catback, 1.6 RR and better valve springs, 3.5 MAF, 52mm tb, 160 stat, under pulleys, electric water pump, and a tune by pcmforless. If this is all I need to to get my car to at least 300hp or a little over 300hp done deal. Should I get a 3.73 or a 3.42 rear gears? this is where I need answers. Also which name brands for the bolt ons should I get? Before doing this I will make sure my car is running like new with a major tune up(i have 90,000 miles). Im going with either magnacor,taylor or msd wires, stock ac delco plugs, either stock cap and rotor or MSD(if my opti is bad then I will replace it(what brand new or refurbished oem)along with the seals and wire hardness if needed. Should I upgrade my injectors to the popular ford svo. PLEASE HELP ME. anyone if you have any advice send me a private message with your number. I live in Norwalk/ Cerritos California. Will also need a reputable LT1 mechanic or experience shops in the area. Thanks again

 

After seeing all the mods, they pretty much only upgraded the gears to 3.73, torque converter, headers/catback, 1.6 RR and better valve springs, 3.5 MAF, 52mm tb, 160 stat, under pulleys, electric water pump, and a tune.
If this is all I need to to get my car to at least 300hp or a little over 300hp, done deal.

Don't even bother with the 3.5MAF, 52mm TB, underdrive pulleys, or electric H2Opump. Lots of money for very-little to not-much-gain.

Should I get 3.73 or 3.42 rear gears?

Do you mostly cruise for extended periods on flat highways?
Are you afraid of spending another $400 on buying a new driveshaft, not including installation?
Is highway MpG a very important number to you?

If the answer to all three questions is YES, then 3.42
If the answer to any of the three questions is NO, 3.73.
If the answer to ALL THREE questions is "Who gives a $h!t", or "hell, no!", 4.10.

Before doing this I will make sure my car is running like new with a major tune up(i have 90,000 miles).
Going with either magnacor, taylor or msd wires, stock ac delco plugs, either stock cap and rotor or MSD (if my opti is bad then I will replace it (what brand new or refurbished oem?) along with the seals and wire hardness if needed.

Don't bother with MSD unless you get a 'deal'. While their quality seems to have improved, ACDelco and Delphi still exceed MSD's quality, and at competitive prices.
Skip White has an awesome reputation for rebuilding Optis at very reasonable prices.
Very wise of you to fix and maintain your car before upgrading stuff.

Should I upgrade my injectors to the popular ford svo?

Should not be necessary, save your money here.
Stock MAF, tb, and injectors don't MAKE more power, they ALLOW more power.
Too many people upgrade these prematurely, only to then be lectured as to why they feel underwhelmed.

Oh, and save the headers for last. If after the headers, you still crave more power, THEN get the F- / Y- MAF, 52mm tb, and 32lb / hr injectors (not necessarily svo).

 

You will not need to change your injectors.

I recommend 3:73 gears. Had them and loved them. Now have 4:10 gears and love them more.

Also, doing the electric WP and TB are expensive for minimum gains. I would put them at the end of the list of mods to do.

You will get your HP & TQ with the CAI, headers, cat back, 1.6 roller rockers, springs, and tune. Gears and TC will maximize your HP & TQ.

Headers will need to be CARB certified since you are in Cali.

Talk to Dan at Clear Image Automotive He can hook you up with gears, CAI and exhaust. He might be able to recommend a shop in Cali.
He's been in the B-body community for a very long time.

 

more info./advice

any more recommendations will be helpful

 

thanks Marky

Thank You Marky for the advice. very informative and helpful. This is the answers I want to hear from you guys in the forum. you mentioned do the headers last. So does this mean get a cat back first then headers? also should I gear it up first then get headers/catback? What headers should I get(name brand)shorties or long tubes? After doing extensive research on our stock header manifold, these are pretty good flowing for a stock/bolt on LT1(96 impala ss year compared to the 94-95) correct. thanks

 

Thank You Marky for the advice. very informative and helpful. This is the answers I want to hear from you guys in the forum.

Been paying attention to the ISSF's gurus for nine years now, which is why I cannot personally accept your thanks - it's theirs.

you mentioned do the headers last. So does this mean get a cat back first then headers?

Personally, I'd just upgrade the mufflers and the skinny tailpipes, the two major restrictions on our stock exhaust system - manifolds are the 3rd.

also should I gear it up first then get headers/catback?

Gears 1st, more fun, plus they actually help metro/urban MpG, and they MIGHT help your transmission last longer by taking some load off.

What headers should I get (name brand) shorties or long tubes? After doing extensive research on our stock manifold, these are pretty good flowing for a stock/bolt on LT1 (96 impala ss year compared to the 94-95), correct?

Didn't think there were any important differences between the 94, 95, &or 96 B-LT1 manifolds.
Even if there were, though, I'd still hold off on headers until I'd … exhausted … all the other extraneous bolt-on mods, and done PLENTY of research to decide which headers I wanted:

a. Clear Image Automotive TRI-Y
b. Clear Image Quad-1
c. AfterBurner

Good luck finding the one shorty header that genuinely releases power, it's out of production; I no longer remember its marque for that reason.

Do it once and get it right, unless you have $ to burn.

Who knows? You might even wind up happy with your car without headers?
Gen2 LT1's an old engine, but with 1.6 roller rockers [& valvesprings], supported by a good intake and exhaust, a customised tune, and gears, it'll STILL impress, even after 20 years.

Very generally speaking, after repairs & maintenance, mod from the ground up (tires/wheels, brakes, suspension, steering, engine, in that order) and from the back forward (gears, muffs & tails [or catback], transmission if needed, headers, engine, in that order) for best value on the dollar.

 

I still want to know what you meant for hp as asked earlier. You mention stock was 260 (which is rated at the FW), and you said you want 300-350 hp. OK, where, at the FW same as stock rated or at the tires. This really is a big difference in advice offered.

 

Good question.

300 - 350 FWHP is doable with bolt ons and a very good tune.

300 - 350 RWHP, going to need heads and cam.

 

The Receipe...

Here's how to make POWER (with a build sheet):

www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/hrdp_0402_1996_chevy_impala_ss/

"Speed and power are directly proportional to the amount of money you are willing to spend." (Author unknown)

HTH.

.

 

$0.02:

300 RWHP means +/-375 FWHP, presuming about a 20% efficiency drop thru the drive line. That's just a touch (+7%) over 1HP/CI (375 HP/350 CI), which is do-able.

The LS motors 'make more power' because the heads flow better than the LT1 heads do. It stands to reason that GM built the bottom end of a motor that makes more power up top (in the heads) a bit stronger than a motor that makes less power up top.

As technology advances (better flowing heads, exhaust, injection, etc.) things get more efficient and 'make more power'. For example, my DD '02 Civic Si (gasp! It's 'rice'!) is a 2.0L (123 CI) but makes about 160 FWHP bone stock and normally aspirated - that's 1.3 ponies per cubic inch. Apply that tech to a 350 (5.7L for you left-handers) and the LT1 needs to make 455 FWHP (364 RWHP) to keep 'current'.

.

 

post #10

Thanks for all your help guys. keep the good questions and answers coming. Now can someone answer my #10 post for me. Thanks

 

I would get Tri Y headers from Dan at Clear Image Automotive.

Get the whole kit with high flow cats if your state requires emissions.

It will bolt right up to the stock OR aftermarket cat back.

Dan also sells a very nice cat back.

http://www.clearimageautomotive.com/impala_ss_original_tri_y_headers.php

 

gears

again thanks for all your input. Im still not sure which gear ration to add to my vehicle. If I only had a few members in the southern California let me ride on there cars to compare 342's and 373's gear ratios. from the three questions about the gears,2 out of the 3 I answered yes. most of my driving is street with highway going only 70-75mph. MPG is important. I'm happy if i get 15-20mpg. highway miles total is about 20 round trip to work(3 times per week). most of my driving is street. $400 driveshaft and labor. do i need a new driveshaft after i gear it up? no I dont have a heavy foot but will be nice to know that when i need the power to move i can count on my b-body and feel 100% confidence that i will not be disappointed. My car will be stock along with all the bolt ons previously mentioned and in the order you guys recommended with the gears/roller rockers/springs(will need a tune for gears so why not do the RR as well so I would not need to retune) then catback, cold intake(which I have now K/N) and a tune. Headers will be later down the line. Thanks again guys

 

again thanks for all your input. Im still not sure which gear ratio to add to my vehicle. If I only had a few members in the southern California let me ride on there cars to compare 3.42 and 3.73. from the three questions about the gears, 2 out of the 3 I answered yes. most of my driving is street with highway going only 70-75mph. MPG is important. I'm happy if i get 15-20mpg. highway miles total is about 20 round trip to work(3 times per week). most of my driving is street. $400 driveshaft and labor. do i need a new driveshaft after i gear it up? no I dont have a heavy foot but will be nice to know that when i need the power to move i can count on my b-body and feel 100% confidence that i will not be disappointed.

1. I'm gonna race, or 'play hard' [for money]?
Y = 3.73 N = 3.42
(see ?#6)

2. I'm gonna tow/haul, or 'work hard' [for money]?
Y = 3.73 N = 3.42

3. Lotsa steep &/or long hills where I tend to drive?
Y = 3.73 N = 3.42

4. I care more about city MpG, less about highway MpG?
Y = 3.73 N = 3.42

5. I have an extra $400 lying around, just in case I NEED to buy a new driveshaft?
Y = 3.73 N = 3.42

6. My valvetrain has [AT LEAST] 1.6 roller rockers and upgraded valvesprings to support a WOT UpShift of at least 6,000RpM [or higher]?
Y = 3.73 N = 3.42
(see ?#1)

7. This is my toy, not my daily driver?
Y = 3.73 N = 3.42

If more 'Y's than 'N's, get 3.73
If more 'N's than 'Y's, get 3.42

Either way, 28"-29" tall tires and 1.6 roller rockers are always recommended.

SOME OEM driveshafts begin resonating - vibrating like a guitar string - after installing 3.73 (some, but not all).
I don't know of any way to divine beforehand if your driveshaft is lucky or unlucky? Maybe someone else knows?

In my case, going from 2.56 to 3.42 made sense; I answered all 7 questions 'no'.
If you wind up psychologically 'split down the middle' or 'on the fence', go 3.73; you can always ask PCM Performance to try to wring out some more highway MpG from the tune [see my sig].

If you wind up deciding NOT to do the 1.6 roller rockers and the catback, your butt will probably still prefer 3.73 over 3.42, but your stopwatch will not notice the difference.

My car will be stock along with all the bolt-ons previously mentioned and in the order you guys recommended with the gears/roller rockers/springs (will need a tune for gears so why not do the RR as well so I would not need to retune), then catback, cold intake (which I have now K&N) and a tune. Headers will be later down the line.

Although I think every single freaking one of these cars needs a tune regardless of mods, it's definitely wiser money to tune for the gears & the 1.6 roller rockers.

 

3.73's are the way to go. If you answered "yes" in regards to gas mileage then you bought the wrong car.

You'll will never really feel the difference till you add a good TC with the addition of steeper so plan on spending more cash. Gears and a good TC is a marriage made in heaven for our big two ton gas guzzlers.

 

I was able to get 18-19 mpg highway with 4.10's and a stock convertor. So over 15 should be easily doable with 3.73's.

 

gear choice

I've decided to get the 373's. hopefully this is all i need for my stock bolt ons currently mentioned in this thread. Thanks to all your advice brothers. Now my question to you, who has the best price for the upgrade? I do want gears that will last me. I live in Southern CA(Norwalk/Cerritos 10 minutes south of Long Beach). Any recommendations of a gear shop/performance shops that can do this mod for me. Can you guys give me the names of companies that have these gears and what I will need for this conversion. I have 308 gears now. need info. Thanks

 

If you want to come down to Orange county, try this shop:

1. J & S Gear Co
2. Address: 18222 Gothard St, Huntington Beach, CA 92648
   Phone:(714) 841-4545

 

Ram jet rear end in sun valley.
He did mine with an eaton posi and
My car launches great on slicks.
Talk to Eddie, he is the owner and a real
Cool guy. Remember to order the
Reluctor gear for your abs.