Add pag150 oil directly in the AC compressor, (On the low side/suction side, The side that has the larger tube attached to it. High side, hot when running, Has smaller tubes) and then spin it around. Sometimes a new compressor may be hard to turn. Attach the new compressor w/ new seal washers, Also add some oil to the receiver drier / Accumulator as that should be replaced. Change the Orifice valve as well, Vac out the system for at least an hr Charge it up.. AC should be cold.

I dunno about the other questions I never used a manifold gauge set. Only the big expensive machine that has everything. However, The gauge set should have a provision for hooking it up to R134a cans.

 

Add pag150 oil directly in the AC compressor, (On the low side/suction side, The side that has the larger tube attached to it. High side, hot when running, Has smaller tubes) and then spin it around. Sometimes a new compressor may be hard to turn. Attach the new compressor w/ new seal washers, Also add some oil to the receiver drier / Accumulator as that should be replaced. Change the Orifice valve as well, Vac out the system for at least an hr Charge it up.. AC should be cold.

I dunno about the other questions I never used a manifold gauge set. Only the big expensive machine that has everything. However, The gauge set should have a provision for hooking it up to R134a cans.

How can I get my AC to blown colder

 

My gauges have threaded fittings. I'm not sure, but I think you need a set of these to connect to a car.

 

If you get Harbor Frieght gauges, they won't come with a can tap. You can get one from Advance online or if they have one at the store. I had to use the tap that came with the UV dye kit from Advance. You can order online and pick up at the store for less.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...et/product_R-134a-Can-Tap-Dispenser-Interdynamics_9016279-P_N3570_T|GRP2001____

 

Thanks for the answers. Can tap I have (came with a booster can) but the couplers I missed. Ordered a set of those now too.

 

If you buy a dedicated R134A manifold set, it should come with the couplers already. Those are more for older R12 or universal manifold gauges.

 

You may also want to consider flushing your system. This will ensure that all the lines and condenser & evaporator have no trace of debris or contamination.
Here's an article on flushing AC systems:
http://www.e38.org/pparish/flushing.htm

This is the canister that i used to flush mine:
http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=01&Product_Code=91046-A&Category_Code=
They do not sell the smaller 25 oz. system flush solvent that I used any more but this would be something that would be enough for one job: (quart size=32 oz.)
http://www.4s.com/Problem Solving Parts-PSP Dura II/Content.aspx

 

I ordered the gauge set from a british ebay seller, turned out to be the harbor freight set with the couplers so that's all taken care of.

Good tip on the flushing cylinder, never used one though. Do I just fill that with solvent, hook it up to compressed air and blow it through the lines?

I don't own an air compressor but I've been looking for an excuse to buy one anyway

Need to convert my Caprice from R12 over to R134 at some point, which needs a thorough flush so might as well get all the tools now.

 

Good tip on the flushing cylinder, never used one though. Do I just fill that with solvent, hook it up to compressed air and blow it through the lines?

I don't own an air compressor but I've been looking for an excuse to buy one anyway

Need to convert my Caprice from R12 over to R134 at some point, which needs a thorough flush so might as well get all the tools now.

Yes Carlton, you would need a compressor. It doesn't have to be an expensive one. I got mine from a Pep Boys for under $100.00. It's kind of like this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-3-4-quarter-hp-5-gallon-115-psi-twin-tank-air-compressor-94734.html (It can't be used for impact tools but it does come in handy for inflating tires or when you need to blast something with pressurized air.)
You just pour the solution in the canister and then attach the air line to the canister and pump it with air. Then take your pressurized canister over to the AC lines and blast it through the system. (Make sure you have a rag on the other open lines) After you have flushed the lines you pump some air from the compressor to remove any of the flushing solution until the lines are clear. The vacuum pump will remove any leftover moisture after you have everything hooked up.

You could let someone else do this and sometimes it is more practical but if you do this job yourself you will know that no shortcuts were taken and the job was done right. (my 2 cents)

Here's another thing that I would/did use. RT201B - Nylog (Blue) Gasket Thread Sealant for HFC Systems
http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=01&Product_Code=RT201B&Category_Code=
More info here:
http://www.centurytool.net/RT201B_Refrigeration_Technologies_NYLOG_BLUE_p/rt201b.htm

You rub a few drops of this lube on your O rings and this helps prevent leaking/hardening of the rubber O ring gaskets.

 

A/C Line

I recently lost all of my R134a due to the Control Arm wearing a hole in the line. Pretty common on our cars. I thought about charging it myself but don't want to risk messing something up and wiping out a perfectly good compressor costing a lot of money to replace. We tried those AZ refil cans on my kids car and within a week the compressor gave out.

Since the system has been open for a while due to the hose break, I just feel better taking it to a professional and having them do it with the right equipment. Since it's been opened up it really needs to be evacuated of all moisture and then recharged. I called around to a few places and most were in the $100-$150 range to do this in my area. I did find one garage that will do it for $70. For that kind of money I'm going to let them do it. I think the cans and tools alone would cost me $50 so this seems like a much better option. Just my $.02

 

Once the A-arms cut a hole in the line, you need to replace the line (obviously) and you should use a vacuum pump to get rid of all air in the system. 45 mins is usually enough. Then shut off the pump and watch the gauge to make sure the vacuum holds. If it moves, you have a leak that you need to find and seal. If it doesn't move after 10-15 mins, then that is when I introduce freon into the system. hope this helps

 

Always drain the oil out of a new compressor, and fill it with the proper amount of oil.

The last compressor I bought only has a minimal amount of oil in it..


+1 on SnowDog's advice

 

Thanks for the tips. Also had a phone conversation with a local a/c shop which can supply me the PAG oil and thread sealant. He basically said there are no shortcuts in a/c, do it right. In that light I've ordered a new orifice tube and dryer.

I'll go compressor shopping next week. Found a shop that has an oil-filled 24 liter tank unit for €150, or a 50 liter unit for €320. Wouldn't mind getting an impact at some point to loosen the odd exhaust bolt, I assume bigger is better?

I've not been able to find the canister type flush gun that the ackits website and the haynes book use, it's all the type like in this set. I assume it works the same?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm new to air tools, need to learn

 

The one gun is a paint gun, the long nosed one is more for like spraying rubber undercoating..

If you cant find the flush gun locally, they do make disposable aerosol flush systems. (Basically a can of solvent with a long hose and rubber tip). Spray it thru all the lines (not the compressor or drier of course), then dry it very throughly with a blow gun with a rubber tip on it...

At least in the US, most bigger parts stores sell the flush solvent with the hose..

Then use a blowgun like this to clear the lines.. It takes a good while to get all the solvent out of the lines. Pretty much keep blowing air thru them until there's no solvent coming out, and the vapors are gone.

Watch, because that flush solvent will etch your paint, and kill your grass. Plenty of rags and towels are a must!

 

Update

I removed the compressor, those 2 small bolts at the back sure are a bitch to get at. Managed to get the bolt off that holds that bracket to the block, only to find there's not enough room to maneuver the compressor out (you can't clear the stud). Anyway I got it out after buying a long 10mm box end wrench (only had offset type, doesn't work here)

Removed orifice tube, it had flakes on it. Took it to a local ac shop to get some new o-rings and had them look at it, they recommended doing a proper flush with a pulsating type pressure system they have. Didn't want to drive with half the system open so I just took out the evaporator, condenser and the lines and dropped them off.

I'm glad I did because this is what my evaporator looked like, all that crud wouldn't have helped any.

Will post more when I get everything back clean, hopefully just a matter of install, vacuum and fill then. Thanks for all the help so far.

 

Another update

Got the lines, condenser and evaporator flushed. Reassembled everything with new o-rings, new 4 seasons compressor, new filter dryer and orifice tube. Vacuumed system down and let it sit overnight, was still right at 30" vacuum in the morning so I'm pretty sure it's gas tight. Put in two cans of R134, pressures look good (35psi low, 210 hi), blows nice and cold.

Not counting the air compressor I spent about €170 on tools (gauges and vacuum pump) which I don't think is too bad considering I didn't pay for any labor other than having the evaporator and condenser flushed (€50), and it's a satisfying job to have done as DIY. Thanks for all the help!

ps. If anyone else is thinking of doing this, note that you can remove the a/c condenser without removing the radiator, just removing the top support lets you tilt it out of the way enough for the condenser to slide out, in fact the entire a/c system can be removed without draining the cooling system. AC compressor and evaporator are both royal pains to get out though.