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Good PCM??

1.5K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  Marky Dissod  
#1 ·
Hey guys/gals...had a question. Tried searching on here...but Im not really sure what to search. PCM testing, ECU testing...nothing really pops up.

I was at the part yard and found a 96 Caprice. It had a the DCM color....but it had weird overspray and the fender wells were black... and the inside where the three fender bolts that connected to the radiator cross member were white. So im assuming it was a white Caprice.

Anyway...all this is beside the point!! sorry.

It had an OBD2 pcm still attached. It was in fantastic condition physically. Better than my 96 BBB when I had it out. It looked like the cabin area was involved in a fire....but engine bay looked fairly good. So I bought the PCM.

So on to my question.... Is there some type of voltage test across the pins or anything to verify if this PCM is good or not? I realize I potentially wasted $48 bucks if its bad. But i'll do something with it to make it worth my while!! :p

So is there a way to test this with a voltmeter? what pins do I use?? pics? etc....

any help would be appreciated. Thanks!


Rob.
 
#3 ·
hmmm..thought about doing this. So it will be in limp mode or something?? I know the VIN is programmed into it and all that ..... dont know too much about how the ECU works.


if its bad, will the car attempt to turn over?? or will there be nothing??

Rob.
 
#5 ·
For the most part, you're right...I do have one LT1 PCM that always turns on the check engine light and cooling fans...in whatever vehicle it's in...can read a flash from it, write a new flash to it...doesn't matter, there's something wrong with it.

OP, I'd just plug it in and see if it works...now, if you really care about the VIN number programmed into the PCM...just open the cases up, and swap the guts from one to the other. There are screws around the perimiters of the cases holding them closed, then a rubbery/silicone gasket that you can re-use between the 2 case halves, a ribbon cable connecting the 2 boards, and if my memory serves me right, 2 screws holding each board to the case halves.

Circuit boards are pretty durable...don't scratch at them with anything, and don't get them wet while the case is open...and don't hit them with anything, and you'll be fine.
 
#6 ·
Right on for the responses guys. I'm gonna slap it in here in a little bit.

Just a few more novice questions.

1. Can a PCM half work? Like one of the ports be bad? Stuff like that?

2. If its dead (the PCM) will the car crank at all? I don't know what to look for with a bad PCM.

3. Say it had a performance tune in it already... Or some type of aftermarket tune. My engine and exhaust is stock. Can I damage anything? ( I ask this because it had the cats removed and the downstream O2's plugged so I'm going to assume it was tuned)

4. And finally going back to my original post. There's no way to test the PCM with a volt meter or anything with the pins? Like run a bench test on it. say I find a couple more PCM's in my next few runs around the junk yards. I don't want to have to take apart my intake every time to test it.

My goal is to tune one and keep my original PCM stock.

Thanks for your time and input guys.



Rob.


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#8 ·
Right on for the responses guys. I'm gonna slap it in here in a little bit.

Just a few more novice questions.

1. Can a PCM half work? Like one of the ports be bad? Stuff like that?

2. If its dead (the PCM) will the car crank at all? I don't know what to look for with a bad PCM.

3. Say it had a performance tune in it already... Or some type of aftermarket tune. My engine and exhaust is stock. Can I damage anything? ( I ask this because it had the cats removed and the downstream O2's plugged so I'm going to assume it was tuned)

4. And finally going back to my original post. There's no way to test the PCM with a volt meter or anything with the pins? Like run a bench test on it. say I find a couple more PCM's in my next few runs around the junk yards. I don't want to have to take apart my intake every time to test it.
1.For reasons unknown, my original PCM eventually developed 1-2 upshift problems.
I replaced it with a PCM that had 2-3 upshift problems.
In my case, 3rd time's the charm.
L99/LT1 PCMs similar to my 1st and 2nd would still run a manual transmission car just fine, btw.

2.Y'know the Key On Engine Off / precrank / run position? A truly dead PCM won't even show this properly.
You can also use an F- or Y-car LT1/LT4 PCM in your car, provided you replace the F- or Y-car tune with a B-tune into it before you use it in your B-car.

3. Unless the other car had mods way out of your league, no. The mods you described are not sufficient to concern you.

4. Is there a way? Sure.
Are there more than 10 people in the continental US who'd actually bother, when they can just get another one and test by driving for an hour? Probably not.
The time it would take to bench test a PCM, isn't worth the money.
Road testing is much more realistic, and takes the same amount of time, during which you actually get something done.
You could always ask the junkyard for permission to start the engine incar & onsite.
 
#7 ·
Just to put my 2 cents in....

my original PCM is toast but still works......cwm5
something got fried so the 1-2 shift is always assumed to be a WOT shift
so tranny clunks hard, other than that car run fine.

so i kept it....my current PCM was off flea-bay and knock on wood it's good so far....

-ALF out....