I paid I think $300 for my LE custom grind cam. Would still need lifters and push rods. But he tailors it to your wants and needs. I think I have $900 in Cam, lifters, pushrods, screw in studs, and springs.

 

I do like LE, in fact I have a complete heads and cam package sitting here waiting for me to get enough free time to wrench on the Caddy. However the truck is just a fun beater, work/winter vehicle, etc. Not looking to spend a fortune on it, but was thinking if I could find something reliable and economical that would perk it up a bit, I'd consider it since I'm already tearing the top-end down to replace a blown head gasket. At the very least I'll probably do the exhaust, it's the first vehicle I've had where I can actually feel it being choked once the revs get up. It leaves hard and pulls hard to about 4000-ish and then it just dies because you really can't expect a 350 to be able to breathe when hooked up to a 2¼" single exhaust.

 

I am using The Hooker Super Competition headers and a stock 2 1/4 with the exception of shorty glass pack type mufflers and mine revs up past 6k no problem.

 

Hot cam is a low lift cam. If you have ported heads, you will most likely have positive airflow up to .650" lift. The Hot cam only has .525" lift with 1.6 rockers.

Also, the Hot cam has only 3* advance ground in. This would emphasize peak HP at the expense of some low RPM torque....right in the range where your car will be driven in normal street use.

Bottom line; this cam was designed for Corvettes and F-bodies that weigh up to 1000LBs less than most B-bodies....and if it were my car, I'd look elsewhere for a cam.

Best of luck!

KW

 

Hot cam is a low lift cam. If you have ported heads, you will most likely have positive airflow up to .650" lift. The Hot cam only has .525" lift with 1.6 rockers.

Also, the Hot cam has only 3* advance ground in. This would emphasize peak HP at the expense of some low RPM torque....right in the range where your car will be driven in normal street use.

Bottom line; this cam was designed for Corvettes and F-bodies that weigh up to 1000LBs less than most B-bodies....and if it were my car, I'd look elsewhere for a cam.

Best of luck!

KW

Only reason I was considering the hot cam kit is because it's easy, it's basically everything I'd need in one package. As I mentioned though, I'm talking about my S10 with an LT1 in it. And even though it is the 4 door Blazer with 4x4, I'm still a fair bit lighter than a b-body. Factory weight should be about 3700-3800 lbs. Not sure if the V8 swap picked up any weight, I expect a little from the block and internals, shaved a little though being an aluminum headed version. I would think I'm about 4000 lbs max, which may be just heavy enough though that the hot cam isn't really what I'm after, like I said, I was only considering it because it was easy.

 

OP

Look into Elgin cam. Something along the lines of a "RV cam". Alex springs (if available). Even stamped 1:6 rockers. All very low budget.

I had their stuff in a Ford 302 motor

Your current valve springs are likely done

The Hot Cam kit will be more a upper RPM boost, not what you would want on a DD beater S10. Also the springs in that kit were designed for the lighter (hollow) LT4 valves. The heavier solid LT1 valves....those springs are barely a upgrade

 

I just took a look at their website, I might reach out to them. I'd be curious what they charge if anyone has a clue. It occurred to me that I have a few things on hand already. I've accumulated a few gasket sets from having bought them and subsequently misplacing them before I got around to the work I'd planned on and having to buy another set. I've also got a new Cloyes LT1 timing set on hand that was meant for the Caddy until that build changed and I opted for a better set. I have some of the exhaust stuff I was going to need when I switched to headers. I even have a new Bailey's LTCC box with a set of coils, brackets and wires squirreled away that were for the Caddy until I decided to go 24x. I suspect a tune will be in my near future. Need to figure out springs and if I want to replace/improve anything else in the valvetrain, and then I think I'll be set.

 

OP, If you're interested in a set of stamped 1.6 rocker arms, I have a brand new set. They are self aligning. I was going to use them with my original heads. Since I bought some with screw in studs I had to go non-self aligning. This is what I have.https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1-6-Ra...m33d941469a:g:chEAAOSw8Y1bufcS:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateBox!73507!US!-1:rk:5:pf:0 $75 plus the shipping. Let me know if you're interested. Rocker and ball USA made and nut was made in Canada

Mark: Snowman-33

 

OP, If you're interested in a set of stamped 1.6 rocker arms, I have a brand new set. They are self aligning. I was going to use them with my original heads. Since I bought some with screw in studs I had to go non-self aligning. This is what I have.https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1-6-Ra...m33d941469a:g:chEAAOSw8Y1bufcS:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateBox!73507!US!-1:rk:5:pf:0 $75 plus the shipping. Let me know if you're interested. Rocker and ball USA made and nut was made in Canada

Mark: Snowman-33

I might be interested in those, and I can probably source some better quality nuts. I'll look into those a little more in a couple days and get back to you.

 

My first cam upgrade was to COMP Cams 07-503-8 Xtreme Energy Hyd. Roller Camshaft, Chevy LT1/LT4. Offered 224/230 duration and 503/510 lift. Worked well with my 2500 stall converter as a DD.

 

No you're fine, I appreciate all the info. I think between what yourself and the others were able to contribute, I can safely say the LT4 stuff is out. If it won't cost too much, I'll get a cam spec'd for the vehicle's parameters, go with the stamped 1.6 rockers, and call it a day. I still need to figure out springs yet. And I think my factory push rods are fine. I'm generally pretty knowledgeable on a lot of things, but I'm definitely weak when it comes to cams and valvetrain stuff. I know what they do, and I sort of understand what the different specs mean, but I would never trust myself to select all the bits and pieces on my own.

 

Camaro LT1

Get the specs on the Camaro cam and compare to the stock B-body cam. The stock b-body cam was torque cam and cheap. Get a good valve job and have BTR racing get you some matching springs,locks and retainers. Then open up the exhaust. Or for a DD you might reach your goals with a good exhaust and a basic head refresh, valve job and springs.

 

The k motion k-750 Springs are a good quality set and you can reuse stock retainers and locks.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kmo-k-750/

Nab

 

I'm not sure about the screw in studs for your heads. The heads I bought use push rod guide plates. that is the reason I had to go with the non self-aligning. Are there plates in your heads? Lets do a little checking before we finalize any deal. I don't want you to be stuck with something you can't use. I have sight problems at times too. I'm so old.

Mark: Snowman-33

 

Nope, no guide plates. As far as I can tell it's all factory. I just know that cast iron heads had pressed in studs, and the aluminum heads were screw-in. I've got the aluminum heads on this one. I thought all the factory rockers were self-aligning with the LTx motors, but I'm not positive. I know that information is elsewhere on this forum though, I'll do some digging to confirm that.

 

Self aligning rocker arms

I did some research and it looks as if you can use these rocker arms. PM me if you want to do the deal. Check this site:https://www.nookandtranny.com/Info_LT1.html

Mark: Snowman-33

 

I did some research and it looks as if you can use these rocker arms. PM me if you want to do the deal. Check this site:https://www.nookandtranny.com/Info_LT1.html

Mark: Snowman-33

Were you a 13M?

 

Out of curiosity, how do we feel about Elgin valve springs? The have a variety of offerings for SBC applications, I looked at these first and they appear they'd work. Specs seem more or less stock, although I'm wondering if I'd want a bit more pressure when open? There are limits to what I can do on a budget, but I thought when I was checking out the Elgin 1.6 stamped rockers they listed a max open pressure of 400lbs, so I could go stiffer. Just seeing if anyone has any input on that. I'll list the specs for the exact springs I'm looking at.


Chevy Small Block And Others Z-28 Performance Valve Springs

Set Of 16 ( From Bulk Box )

Elgin Part Number RV943X


Fits Many Applications Including Small Block Chevrolet Engines
Use The Compatibility Guide To Verify Your Application Or Use The Specifications Below


SPECS :
Free Length : 2.404"
Outside Diameter : 1.260"
Inside Diameter : .876"
Wire Size : .192"
Closed Pressure : 110# @ 1.700"
Open Pressure : 285# @ 1.210"
Coils : 6.5 RH Turn

Solid Height : 1.160"
Single Spring With Damper
Good For Up To .500" Lift



MADE IN THE USA

 

Out of curiosity, how do we feel about Elgin valve springs? ]

FWIW I had Elgin springs in a Ford 302 crate motor. They worked fine. Motor had a small "RV" cam in it. They are good budget sprigs for stock to mild cam builds

Alex springs have very good reviews, not sure if they are available but they were also a budget spring

 

13M40 Hooah

Mark: Snowman-33

 

What's a -40? I was just a 13M10 It was quite some time ago though.

 

I was a platoon sergeant. We better take this to a PM. That would be the proper thing.

Mark: Snowman-33

 

Schlicky, I started looking for some info to help you out. I found this. It doesn't spec the RA you bought from me but note the mention of the Z28 springs. Effects of higher ratio rockers on valve spring pressures. | Grumpys Performance Garage I bought these springs as they were so close to the specs for the recommended springs from Comp. and I already hsd them here. Roller cam springs need recomendations | NastyZ28.com I'll continue to look for the spring pressure of the RK738s you got from me. See the post by Bondospecial.

Mark: Snowman-33

 

I found a little more info for you. I hope this helps. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/312568/1996-buick-roadmaster/ I haven't been able to find a rating for the RA max spring pressure.

Mark: Snowman-33

 

Elgin springs are stock replacement.
I would not use them with any cam other than stock.
Nab

 

I'm starting to think I got that 400lbs from something else. I know I read it somewhere while researching those rocker arms, but I was also researching a bunch of other stuff at the same time while trying to figure out what valve train components I wanted to replace/upgrade/reuse/etc.

 

I'm also starting to think I'll stick with the stock cam, or maybe switch over to a b-body cam for the increased low end torque. Unless I want to spend obscene amounts of money (which I don't), this motor will never make top end power because I can't get the exhaust out of it. I apparently have the worst possible scenario when it comes to V8 swapped S10s, a 4x4 with angle plug heads, and d-port heads to boot. At one time there may have been a couple places out there that made them, but currently no one makes swap headers that fit both 4x4s and angle plug heads.


So I might be stuck with the low performance 3rd gen f-body manifolds that are currently on it. Although a few people claim that certain straight plug shorties do in fact work, that's not something I really want to roll the dice on. Supposedly you can get the LT1 manifolds to fit if you notch the frame a little, or can weld up really tight bends, so I might set the heads back on and take a look. I still have my factory manifolds from when I put headers on the Caddy, it'd be worth a look at least.I'm sure I could get more info on that on some of the S10 forums, but I'm having trouble getting my accounts active on those.


Oh well, in the end it was meant to be a beater not a screamer, so if I can at least make the needed repairs, and correct and upgrade a few other things while I'm in there, I'll be happy with it. Down the road I'll have the heads from my Caddy available, I could swap those on and do headers then. Of course I'd have to tear down the top end again. And I'd be adding weight. It's always something when you're into cars, isn't it? :wink2:

 

After reading through the tech articles Mark found and some other research, I think I have a slightly better handle on what I'm doing. Also, I have another spring for consideration, the same set but slightly better. Elgin RV1943X, Z28 +0.100", a bit stiffer yet, but appear to be more in line with what I'm trying to do, at least I think so. I'm not clear on whether these will take stock locks and retainers, but they can be had with new ones for only $10 more. So if I stick with a stock cam, or a very mild aftermarket grind, I'm hoping these will better match what I'm doing. Also, it occurred to me that if I do want to swap the thump stick, I'm going to have to find some more room to pull it. I can still remove the condenser if I have to, but beyond that I don't think I can gain any more. I'm going to go measure that now and see if it can even be done with the motor still in the truck before I get too far ahead of myself.

Valve Spring Specifications:

• Spring Part Number: RV1943X
• Outside Diameter: 1.260"
• Inside Diameter: 0.785"
• Closed: 125 lbs. @ 1.750"
• Open: 325 lbs. @ 1.200"
• Coil Bind @: 1.160"
• Spring Type: Single with damper
• Max lift: 0.550"

Edit: Well, technically I think I could get the cam out with the motor still in. I'd have to remove the condenser, appears easy enough with everything I've already removed. And then I'd have to remove the center section of the radiator support, which appears to be bolted in, and also holds the latch assembly, but nothing else. And I'd have to remove the grille, partly to get at the center section of the radiator support, partly because I'd still need the room. And I might have to remove the bars from my bumper guard/pusher. But it could be done if I really, really wanted to. And I should probably pull the condenser anyways and get it checked if I plan to restore AC to the truck. I think it's official, my winter truck will probably be ready to drive by spring. :laugh:

 

Here is the perfect cam for you. High torque that all the vortec truck guys love
and it will work perfect in an LT1 just needs the longer cam pin.
Low lift so won't wear out valve springs.
Also its made by GM so you know its good quality and relatively inexpensive for a new cam $199.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-14097395

Also have you thought about some factory LS6 bee-hive springs.
90 lbs on the seat so not too stiff and will fit perfect in LT1 aluminum or iron head spring pocket.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Perform...-Beehive-Valve-Spring-12625033-fits-LS1-LS2-LS3-LS6-LS9-SET-OF-16-/263087311009

retainers for beehives: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-Corv...m/Chevy-Corvette-valve-spring-retainer-beehive-LS6-LS2-LS3-camaro-/123493967659

Can reuse stock 7 deg. stock locks.

Nab

 

Here is the perfect cam for you. High torque that all the vortec truck guys love
and it will work perfect in an LT1 just needs the longer cam pin.
Low lift so won't wear out valve springs.
Also its made by GM so you know its good quality and relatively inexpensive for a new cam $199.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-14097395

Nab

I finally took a look at this, and I don't think that would work. Doesn't the LT1 camshaft have a sprocket incorporated at the front to drive the water pump? A vortec motor wouldn't have or need that. Now if I was going to delete the mechanical drive from the water pump and just run electric, it wouldn't matter, but I've looked at it before and there just isn't any way I can fit an electric water pump in there with the setup the way it is. If I were to delete the AC completely, I could pull out the condenser and push the radiator all the way forward, then I might be able to make it work. But I'd really like to be able to put the AC back into the truck. I have my reasons for that, but the short answer is I really don't do well in the heat and a dark blue truck in the summer sucks to drive.


Edit: Ignore me, I'm wrong on that. I forgot the water pump is driven off the cam timing sprocket. Can't believe I forgot that, I knew that too. OK, I'll look at that cam a little closer and re-evaluate.

 

Schlicky, Looking at that spring, RV1943X I would think it might cause you some trouble. I think it's made for +.100 inch valves. As I see it that would put your coil bind at 1.060 with stock length valves. I may be incorrect but then again it should be something to consider. I still think with a mild cam for torque the Z28 springs would work. Bondospecial in the one article I posted said he had good results. He did something very close to what you have going on.

Mark: Snowman-33

 

I've been digging into this a little more, and tentatively I think I'm ok. I've sent out a few emails, and if anyone here can shed some light, by all means. Here's what I think I've figured out. Yes, they are .100" taller than stock valve springs. However I believe that is simply how they're achieving the higher spring pressures. I haven't found full specs on them anywhere yet, but I presume they're a slightly thicker wire, or just have an extra coil, something like that. However, they both list the exact same coil bind/solid height at 1.160". Meaning the point at which they cease to be capable of compressing any further. They're a little taller when uninstalled, so what. Install/assemble/whatever and you have a little more pressure, they are rated for a little more lift, and will still compress to the exact same spec as the "stock" z28 springs they sell. At least, that's what I'm understanding so far. I never knew I'd get this far into valvetrain components and geometry, and lord knows I haven't even begun to scratch the surface of this topic, but I think I'm slowly getting a handle on it. Again, I'm far from 100% on this and I'm open to other info/opinions/etc.

 

Ok, so, I'm more of a "night owl", and in addition to that, sometimes scotch happens. So, I'm still sitting here researching stuff while watching old episodes of top gear and sipping decently aged single malt, and I've already ordered the "upgraded" Z28 springs that I found. It happens. Worst case I don't use them and re-sell them. They were cheap enough that I'm not terribly worried about it. I'll take a closer look at that cam once I'm back up later today and see what it's all about. I appreciate your input. I'll be off to bed shortly and once I take care of the day's responsibilities, I'll jump back into this later tonight.

 

I was also looking at this, it's about $280 on Summit. Appears to be about as crazy as I'd want to go, and seems that it makes most of its power in the low-mid range. I still need to figure out the valve spring question though. What I have should work fine with either cam, but Mark wasn't convinced they would work with the stock valves.



I also went back and looked at my emails with Lloyd and found where my confusion was. When I initially placed the order and when he turned around to order the cam, both Lunati and Comp were out of LT1 cores. I had the option to upgrade to a billet core if I wanted, or wait a few weeks for more cast cores to become available. I wasn't in a hurry and he didn't feel I needed the billet core, so we waited for Lunati. It was $300 for a cast core, $400 for a billet core, but that's where I was getting higher numbers from, and plus shipping, probably $20-30 for a cam, while Summit should be free shipping. I may yet end up contacting Lloyd again, but I hate to get a cam spec'd from him, and then turn around and order elsewhere. I'd feel bad for wasting his time. At this point, I'd probably be most likely to either go with that gmpp vortec cam, or the comp cam I found.



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-07-304-8