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PAG 46 or PAG 150?

30K views 11 replies 7 participants last post by  myonlydaughter2005  
#1 ·
Hi all - still working on this 94 Fleetwood. Finally got another transmission in it and can now address the air conditioning problems it developed right before the transmission went out.

Since the compressor was failing and then one of the hard line/hoses cracked, I decided to get new hoses, a condenser, and a compressor kit from Rock Auto, all UAC brand. In the compressor kit was a new Korean manufacture compressor, which indicated it should be used with PAG 46 and that it indeed was already filled with the appropriate amount. I recall that the factory compressor wanted PAG 150. I'd just like to confirm that there's no problem using PAG 46 with the rest of the system - I can't see how there would be, but I'd like to check. Thanks.
 

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#2 ·
The rest of the system would be ok. Just keep in mind that the accumulator and evaporator will probably still have some residual 150 oil in them. Which would will blend with the 46. The FSM will have a more accurate estimate for each component, but here's a general guide.

199107
 
#4 ·
The only part of the system that isn't being replaced is the evaporator - everything else is being replaced, including the hoses. The compressor sticker also indicates that it has 8 ounces of PAG 46 in it, which would seem to indicate to me that if I flush the evaporator thoroughly, I should be okay without adding any additional oil (the references I've seem to indicate that the entire system uses a total of 8 ounces) - correct me if I'm wrong. I will be flushing out the evaporator core thoroughly.


Ditto what 91ss says just above.

Oil matters for the compressor, and 150 is thicker than 46. They'll blend. Yes, the service manual p/n is 12345923 which is PAG 150, but it has been superseded by 46-wt.

An sheet from UAC from the year 2004 does indeed 150:
CO_R-134A LUBRICANT REFERENCE CHART

But, since UAC's mfr label on your new compressor says 46, then I’d stick with 46, since it’s their warranty.
If your system lost its charge slowly, then you should still have oil in the old evaporator, which you aren't replacing. The new condensor and accumulator (receiver/drier) will need oil, though. (By the way, before you install the new condenser check to make sure they flared the outline line appropriately to install the new orifice tube. I received two condensers in a row that did not, which made them unusable.)

Here's the quantity info from the shop manual:
View attachment 199108
I will check the condenser this afternoon. The compressor was failing - full charge but the compressor was having problems compressing the refrigerant gas as it should - but the release of the refrigerant was anything but gradual. It had a full charge at the time but the hardline part of the hose with the charging port had the thing crack right at the point the charging port is (soldered? brazed?) onto the line when the owner was resting his hand on it leaning into the engine back. Instant total refrigerant release.

Sounds like I might want to add .5 ounces to the system over and above the 8 ounces that the label indicates the compressor comes with.
 
#3 ·
Ditto what 91ss says just above.

Oil matters for the compressor, and 150 is thicker than 46. They'll blend. Yes, the service manual p/n is 12345923 which is PAG 150, but it has been superseded by 46-wt.

An sheet from UAC from the year 2004 does indeed 150:
CO_R-134A LUBRICANT REFERENCE CHART

But, since UAC's mfr label on your new compressor says 46, then I’d stick with 46, since it’s their warranty.
If your system lost its charge slowly, then you should still have oil in the old evaporator, which you aren't replacing. The new condensor and accumulator (receiver/drier) will need oil, though. (By the way, before you install the new condenser check to make sure they flared the outline line appropriately to install the new orifice tube. I received two condensers in a row that did not, which made them unusable.)

Here's the quantity info from the shop manual:
199108
 
#6 ·
I just replaced my 26 year old stock compressor & replaced it with an A.C Delco. Iv been saving up for this compressor & this one did not come with oil. According to the specs mine takes PAG 150. I also replaced the original dryer & orifice filter. Getting the compressor out was tricky & I’m glad I have tools. A mid size 13 or 15 with a swivel did the trick. Any hoot I flushed my condenser & made sure everything was clean. I have never done an LT-1 Compressor & I am mechanic for 20 years..... putting the compressor in was a....bit of a pain in the butt, but... I get things done. I put PAG 150 in the compressor & while installing it some oil came out. I also added oil into the drier. These system takes 8 OZ. According to specs & am concerned about the oil in the system because I was kinda rushing & im not 100% on the total amount that’s in there.....it’s really bothering me. I have an A.C machine here at the shop & followed proper procedures. The A.C works but it gets warm at idle. I do not want to fu(k this up. I’m flushing the condenser again today & my question is.... can you fill the compressor till it overflows like a differential? I have a general idea of what’s in it but like I said I’m now not 100% & I simply want to get this done. Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated. This vehicle is in honor of my big brother that was killed in 94. He was a marine & this car were the last words we spoke about. I was 14 at the time.
I purchased the car in 2010. Semper Fi 🇺🇸
 
#7 ·
Chances are pretty good that yours has a plugged condenser. The newer parallel types are often difficult to flush without something like the Hecate pulse flush system - and sometimes even then they don't completely flush. Current thinking is to replace the condenser if the compressor has failed.
 
#10 ·
Read post #3.
 
#11 ·
Read post #3.

Read post #3.
Read post #3.
Thanks Fred, I've read #3 post for the 3rd time today. I comprehend it better today than yesterday😏. Just need to be precise on this repair for it's my 1st ac overhaul & some of these specs are mixed info & it's a sensitive system. But I'm pretty confident in moving forward. Only thing that's not being replaced is evaporator & the lines. 👍
 
#12 ·
To add my 2 cents is since you’re replacing the system and it’s an old one, if your not going to replace all the parts I’d flush the whole thing out and replace it from the start with what’s recommended with the NEWER part. These old systems take PAG 150 but the newer compressors take PAG 46. If just for warranty purposes I’d put what it calls for. BTW the other parts to completely replace the entire system is cheap. I’d save up a little more and by all the parts new! That’s my 2 cents, I hope it helped! 😉