Join the club! lol

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=270633

 

Yea. How about no AC in 2 of these cars and a stalling out TBI ride too. It only happens when its 85-95 outside, which is everyday for 10 months. Anyway. As long as the brakes work I say its good. I'm just happy the line did not BUST yet. The pedal is actually ok..
So you think the line is a 1/4 inch? I remember some clown charged like $250 to replace this same line years ago.. Forget that!

 

Yea. How about no AC in 2 of these cars and a stalling out TBI ride too. As long as the brakes work I say its good. I'm just happy it did not BUST yet. The pedal is actually ok..
So you think the line is a 1/4 inch?

Keep some extra fluid, a pair of vice grips to pinch off the metal line if it burst, and a pair of extra shorts cwm2

My guess is 1/4 inch. I don't recall for sure though as its been about 4 or 5 years since I did it last on the other car. I do vaguely remember it having a blue label on it, and that what the 1/4 inch line at Autozone has. So that's what I'm gonna try on Sunday probably, so if you don't know by then, I will let you know what I find.

I think mine is leaking at the rubber hose somewhere, but the line looks KFC extra crispy, so I don't think I'm gonna get away with just doing the rubber hose.

 

Also, I wonder if the line would hold up better by coating it with some of that rubberized stuff they use for tool handles. I coated my opti with some of that stuff and it's holding up great...

 

I really wanted one of those coated steel brake lines that AZ sometimes sells. GM just STARTED using them on some newer vehicles. The japs have been using coated lines for decades. I think the line rubbed away on some metal brace thing that was on the frame. Who knows ill find out. I just hope I can get a exact length line. No flaring would be cool.

 

On second thought, there is a place that is local to me that makes an entire kit for the 91-96 cars.

http://www.inlinetube.com/

I may just wait until Monday to see if they will sell me just the rear main line separately. I don't see why not...

 

Hello ! What is the size for the rear hard brake line that goes from the proportioning valve to the over the axle brake hose. It kind of looks like 1/4 inch line?

The OE pipe for the main pipe that is failed on your car is sold in bulk under GM PN 12548430 - I don't know what the quantity is under that PN, or unit of sale.

This is 6.35mm (1/4") size - works with 12mm tube end flare fittings, which is the size of the fitting on the frame-to-axle hose (frame end).

There is a thorough presentation on brake pipes in the FSM, in the General Brakes section. Though it is written with every legal precaution that the lawyers for GM require to protect GM and it's dealers/techs, understand that the procedure does not address any "patching" of a brake line--the only acceptable way (for a dealer) to fix any hard line leak/failure is replacement of the full piece, from fitting to fitting.

What you do on your own is not bound by the same requirement, of course.

You also will need to pay attention to the type of flare required at each connection. Some are double-lap flares, and some are ISO "bubble" flares--special tools are needed for making both types.

ISO flare is used on:

Frame hard line (from front end of car/ABS unit) - connection to hose from frame to axle - forward end (12mm - 1/4" line)

Disc brake axle hard line - caliper end (10mm - 3/16" line)

Fleetwood brake axle hard line - hose end to axle hard line(s) at top of axle (2 hoses, both ends - one is 10mm, one is 12mm)

Fleetwood rear disc conversion axle hard lines use ISO flare at both ends

Double-lap flare is used on:

Axle hard line to Tee connection at top of rear axle (3/16" line) - all B with disc or drum rear axle

Axle hard line for drum brakes - connection at wheel cylinder (3/16" line) - all with drum brake rear axle

 

I'm pretty sure who worked on it last double flared the ends with unions as that is pretty common, I doubt one would bubble flare if its not needed. As always.. Assume makes an ass out of.....

Bubble flares are also used on the 91-4 ABS units. I Don't know about the 95-6 units!

Thanks for the info as always Bill! 1/4 inch it is.

 

Ok. Doing my research, I found out that no one really sells 12mm line so I would assume its 1/4 inch line that was used for the patch with 7/16-24 pitch flare nuts and unions. If the flare nuts are metric, No biggie as I will reuse the old ones. Now.. Who makes a good flare tool? I can get a 72 inch piece of brake line from advance auto for $8 bucks. My line has to be about 57 inches, so.. Ill have to flare one side...

I would like a good flare took to keep around in case more lines break (Oh they will) Any recommendations? I know the cheapy flare tools like to let the line slip which will guarantee a messed up flare!

 

Perhaps I wasn't clear enough--the line in question IS 1/4" pipe/tube (what ever you want to call it), but since the terminations (ends) are ISO bubble flare using 12mm thread flare nuts, the reference was made to 6.35mm tube-- meaning the flare nuts, even though metric, work with 1/4" tube.

If you're going to "patch" the line from the previously repaired spot, you will need to use the flare that is already on the new line--or do a standard flare (make it a a double-lap flare) at one end, and the other will be an ISO bubble--I assume you are saying that the pre-formed line you can buy is already flared, and that you will cut it and then re-shape it to match the section you're removing. If you're only going to put in another patch with a second "standard" flare joint, I would really encourage you not to do that--the more patch sections (actually joints) the greater change of leakage or failure, which needs to be given overriding priority in your approach.

Yes, it means getting proper (flare) tools - for example:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/300648357717?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...JABEK0E&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=1a793d40cdf630f5&biw=1241&bih=584

 

Perhaps I wasn't clear enough--the line in question IS 1/4" pipe/tube (what ever you want to call it), but since the terminations (ends) are ISO bubble flare using 12mm thread flare nuts, the reference was made to 6.35mm tube-- meaning the flare nuts, even though metric, work with 1/4" tube.

If you're going to "patch" the line from the previously repaired spot, you will need to use the flare that is already on the new line--or do a standard flare (make it a a double-lap flare) at one end, and the other will be an ISO bubble--I assume you are saying that the pre-formed line you can buy is already flared, and that you will cut it and then re-shape it to match the section you're removing. If you're only going to put in another patch with a second "standard" flare joint, I would really encourage you not to do that--the more patch sections (actually joints) the greater change of leakage or failure, which needs to be given overriding priority in your approach.

Yes, it means getting proper (flare) tools - for example:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/300648357717?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...JABEK0E&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=1a793d40cdf630f5&biw=1241&bih=584

Yes I am going to replace the whole length of patched line, union to union. Not do a double patch! cwm2 Bend, measure, cut, flare one side, bolt in, bleed. I'm sure its a double flare deal on their now. I Doubt one would bubble flare it Or use metric flare nuts! Ill check, I still have not, I have been busy with nonsense. One union is about where the frame curves out from the front wheel well, the other union in the rear is where the rear frame rail would tuck in.

Yes It was strange to me that one could mix metric and standard pieces together with brake lines. I did not understand that until I did some research on brake lines. I also found out that my thread pitch is most likely a 7/16-24 as not too many thread pitches are available. If its not metric its probably a m12x1.0

Most of those store bought flare tools under $50 look pretty chinsey, so that's why I asked if one knows of anything High quality. Ill pay for it I don't care. Sure one could make a nicer flare just from prepping the cut line properly! At the old shop we had access to high quality flare tools, but that place is days away.

 

What I'm saying is that I think you are going to find that both ends of the line you are replacing are ISO bubble flare--I am pretty certain that the frame hard line to hose connection (to the rear axle) is ISO, and I'm fairly certain the other end (at the ABS unit) is ISO as well.

It's not an either/or choice.....maybe I am completely misunderstanding what you are dealing with or how you are explaining what your intentions are.

 

I have an existing non factory patch between the factory front to rear connections. The shop built a patch using unions to span the length of the drivers side frame rail. The patch is rusted and leaks only on the patch's span. I don't think these cars had an extra 2 connections like it does now from the factory. Sure, It could be a bubble or they just double flared it for the patch. When I remove it ill know. It would be neat if its a double flare as that is somewhat easier. Maybe ill buy the equipment to do both style of flare to be safe. Lucky I will only have to flare one end of a pre-flared line set