[sherlock9c1]

New brake hose is in, and coated in neverseize between the line the fitting. I used the high temp copper stuff (it was nearby). Retainer clip is reinstalled. My goodness this is terrible to get to with the body on the frame.

New hose is on.

Body seams coated with CRC Heavy Duty Marine Corrosion Inhibitor for extra protection. I love this stuff.

Next step, reassemble the fuel sending unit and install the fuel tank.

 

[sherlock9c1]

I've got several sending units sitting here, so I pieced this one together. I prefer to solder the joints; this isn't everyone's cup of tea, but it's worked for me. It helps that I'm using flux I got from an estate sale 20 years ago that probably dates back to the 1940s, and solder that I bought as a kid from Radio Shack in the early 1990s.

New fuel strainer on left; old one on right. As fine particles clog the pores, it passes less and less light. This technique also is useful for air filters.

Inside the fuel tank looking rearward.

Looking straight down. The lower compartment is for the fuel pump and strainer and the upper compartment is for the fuel gauge float.

 

[sherlock9c1]

Sedan fuel pipe on left, wagon on right (with checkball).

Length difference due to tank geometry. Wagon pipe is far longer.

Fuel pipe properly installed into the tank. It dumps directly into the central area.

 

[sherlock9c1]

I was all ready to install the sending unit when I discovered a crack in the "circuit board" that the wiper rides on while testing everything. I'll have to replace that with another one from my parts stash. I think I'll call it a night.

 

[Fix Until Broke]

Silly question - what is the purpose of the fuel pipe inside of the tank, and additionally the check ball in the wagon version?

 

[95wagon]

Me me let me🙃

The tube gets the effective point of entry closer to the centerline lessening the tendancy of the fuel to slam up the filler on hard accel and cornering.
The ball likely a buoyant discriminator to stop fuel spit back during filling .

The tongue is to direct at least some fuel directly to the bucket on a "ran out of fuel " refill

 

[Fix Until Broke]

Ok, thanks - That makes sense.

I think the ball is going to disappear on my wagon as filling the tank full is a royal PITA with all the foam (diesel) and I bet that ball is part of the problem. Else drill a hole or two in the top of the tube.

 

[sherlock9c1]

The paint on this car is highly reflective...

 

[sherlock9c1]

In case you didn't see the pic above; this car is now running. I had to celebrate!

After finding a crack in the gas gauge sender resistor board, I just went with a completely different sending unit. The earlier soldering pictures are now OBE (overcome by events). I had several older senders here I could piece together but didn't feel like it.

PIC OF NEW SENDING UNIT WITH FUEL PUMP INSTALLED

I got the sender installed; note that the new sender O-ring is slightly tight and wants to ride up the inside of the trough; I gently stretched it with my fingers, then installed everything.

I coat the top of every sending unit with CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor; goes on as a thick coating and then dries mostly solid.

PIC OF COATED SENDER LINES

Then I wrap high-temp 1/4" and 5/16" loom around the lines to protect against metal chafing against the body.

PIC OF LOOM ON SENDER LINES

I also coated the rear body edges with that stuff. It's gonna take a lot for this part of the body to rust now.

PIC OF COATING ON UNDERBODY.

 

[sherlock9c1]

My buddy and I filled the rear axle with fluid. Way easier outside of the car. It basically takes two quarts of gear oil plus the limited slip additive. I put a low mile factory posi differential in it; it's nice and tight (tight enough to torque the lug nuts without applying the parking brake).

PIC OF GEAR OIL FILL.

Then we maneuvered the rear axle under the car and began connecting the control arms. All bolts and nuts are the same except for the two pumpkin ears which are smaller.

PIC OF CONTROL ARMS AND BOLTS

We also installed the rear ABS sensor wire. One bracket on the pinion nose, one on the driver's upper control arm, one on the frame crossmember, and then over the top and down to the connector next to the fuel pump.

PIC OF ABS SENSOR WIRING.

Don't tighten the control arm bolts until you have the suspension at ride height. Next step was springs and shocks. This car has custom Eibach springs spec'd for the Canadian Police. They ride fantastic. A vendor just across the border from Niagara Falls had 10 sets left in 2012; I bought two; no idea if there are any left.

SPRINGS AND SHOCKS

We connected the stainless steel brake lines and then reassembled the rear brakes. These cars are easy to bleed.

We put about 200 lbs of weight in the rear of the trunk to get the suspension to ride height, and then tightened all the control arm bolts.

Next up was the driveshaft; 7/16" bolts and we're in.

PIC OF DRIVESHAFT YOKE BOLTS

Finished up with the driveshaft safety loop up front.

PIC OF DRIVESHAFT SAFETY LOOP

 

[sherlock9c1]

New motor oil and oil filter, and refilled the transmission. I use DexMerc3 - unless you are road racing, just buy the cheap stuff and flush it every 20k or when it gets dirty.

I disconnected the fuel pump and cranked the car until the oil pressure light turned off. I don't like dry starts after an engine has been sitting for a long time.

Once the oil system was primed, I ran the fuel pump long enough that it loaded up, and then I could hear the fuel pressure regulator bleeding fuel back to the tank.

Turned the key, cranked and fired immediately. I love a good-condition LT1. Crank-crank-crank-FIRE.

Took it for a test drive - man, for a stock motor this car feels quick. And a working posi is quite a nice surprise, but you had better be ready to reel the back end in when you hammer it through the 1-2 shift!

Best of the best - the line pressure is rock solid. No more oscillation. It definitely was that pressure regulator valve in the pump.

PIC OF PRESSURE GAUGE.

 

[sherlock9c1]

Finally got this thing out and worked on it for about four hours. Got a few things on the rear suspension adjusted, installed the ABS wire retainer on the driver's side upper control arm, got a few more minor things done. Next up, add a heater core shutoff valve, get the HVAC blower motor working. In this pic I am loading the rear suspension so I can do a final tighten on all the control arm bolts. The upper bolts are terrible to get to with the body on. Not visible in this pic is all the ballast I put in the trunk to help compress the suspension. I had already relaxed the jack by the time I took this pic.

 

[Crusty]

That's a handy lift you have there.

 

[sherlock9c1]

That's a handy lift you have there.

QuickJack BL-5000EXT with the 12V pump option. Jumper cables to the car's battery, start it up, lift the car up anywhere you want. Super portable. I do find these are love/hate with people; some of my friends love it; others just want floor jack and jack stands. My kids don't like it; they say it takes too long. They've never had to put a whole car in the air.

 

[BALLSS]

That lift is on my "list". Getting these cars up high enough to actually work well under them is otherwise a multi step floor jack-raise-jack stand or race ramp-repeat process

I have The Race Ramp wheel cribs that are very light and easy to store but are only good to have tires on them so no help for any need wheel access work

Wish I had the ceiling height in garage for something like this, more to get 3 cars in

Amazon.com: KATOOL 8500 lbs 4 Post Car Lift with Casters Kits Extra Tall Extra Long Extra Wide 4-Post Portable Storage Service Lift Home Parking Lift : Automotive

 

[95wagon]

BL-5000EXT
That lift is on my "list"

If you go seriously looking , the newer 5000TLX gives you 3 more inches height

 

[sherlock9c1]

If you go seriously looking , the newer 5000TLX gives you 3 more inches height

agree 100% with this. That 3" really matters on these cars. The only caveat if you have a 19.5' deep garage like I do; the longer QuickJacks require more horizontal travel room. Just keep that in mind.

 

[BALLSS]

I will audition the jack/car placement so in the "up" position the rear of car will clear the garage door while leaving the normal small path in front of it. Often have the car raised for days on some projects so garage door needs to close

Thanks for the tip

 

[95wagon]

If I get a chance I will measure the " sweep " of the TLX. Being the arms do not move 90° I would think the additional will be less than the height gain.
When in doubt about length, set the car and jacks so it moves into the garage on the way up

 

[BALLSS]

yep, may have to "start" with tail of car slightly out of the garage X" since the raise moves the car forward. Would have discovered this first use but thanks for the heads up