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What ABS Scan tool for 1995 Impala. ABS light still on after new front sensors

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7.3K views 40 replies 5 participants last post by  Marky Dissod  
#1 ·
Hello. I installed two new front ABS speed sensors today. My ABS light is still on. How can I scan this 1995 Impala system? I have a laptop and Adl cable with eehack and free scan. I can’t get them applications to connect to my car for some reason anymore. Eehack connected the other day but won’t anymore. Same for free scan. Is a different scan tool required for scanning ABS codes on the 1995 Impala SS? Also, am I supposed to hear my air pump come on for a second after starting the car up? Because I don’t hear it. Is that a different air pump? I read something like that on goldwagons abs page. Is it possible somebody flashed the system to get rid of abs? Again, my ABS lights on...what do people scan 1995 abs with? Can I get some direction. Much appreciated. Thanks.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the answer. I have scan 9495 on my old windows xp laptop. My scan programs all the sudden stopped communicating with my pcm the other day. Do you know why this would happen? Do you think I need to redownload them?
 
#6 ·
I’m hoping I can be directed to the correct version. I already have free scan, scan 9495 and $eehack. For some reason, none of them are communicating with my car anymore. I never got scan 9495 to connect to my car but the other two worked up to two days ago and quit working. So now none of them work. What a bummer. I purchased this cable from on board diagnostics in Redondo beach and the laptop on eBay for a combined 170 bucks or so and never really got a chance to learn to use it before it stopped communicating with my car. I guess I’m going to have to do some research about this and see what’s going on.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I'm 90% sure the light will stay off if active issues- codes are repaired, not active.
I will check monday for sure as my car is at work.
The service manual has all the tests, and wiring diagrams
You can easily check for battery power, ignition power, ground at the abs connector.
Note, in the manual there are two separate grounds, and a fuse link at aux terminal

You can also check for the continuity and correct resistance for each sensor on the two wires,
Also check those wires are not shorted to the drain wire or ground.
Because of my engine swap , my 95 has a obd2 plug.
I have to treat it as a 96 system for abs , SRS and, 2008 for engine.
I will go check what my old abs scanner is.
Edit- an old OTC enhanced with a 97 insert.
That rear sensor looks awful.
That said, if the sensors have the correct continuity, even if the covered in crap, I think the light should still go out , that is until you started driving, uncovering other abs signal issues.

The wiring path is quite goofy.
Out of abs unit, into main engine harness.
Over to right rear of engine compartment
RF sensor wire brakes out
Lf and Rear sensor cables go through firewall.
Across inside of fire wall to left A pillar.
Rear goes to back and through floor.
LF goes back through firewall and forward to lf wheel
 

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#11 ·
I'm 90% sure the light will stay off if active issues- codes are repaired, not active.
I will check monday for sure as my car is at work.
The service manual has all the tests, and wiring diagrams
You can easily check for battery power, ignition power, ground at the abs connector.

You can also check for the continuity and correct resistance for each sensor on the two wires,
Also check those wires are not shorted to the drain wire or ground.
Because of my engine swap , my 95 has a obd2 plug.
I have to treat it as a 95 system for abs , 2008 for engine.
I will go check what my old abs scanner is.
That rear sensor looks awful.
That said, if the sensors have the correct continuity, even if the covered in crap, I think the light should still go out , that is until you started driving, uncovering other abs signal issues.
Thanks for the reply and all your help.

I’m going to have to go in the direction you described here. (It’s been a wild chase on the cluster thread...both oil pressure and temperature fixed by the way with fuel guage still hooked into brake somehow). Anyway. I’m going to get my mind going and brush up on the FSM for the ABS sensor meter readings and see if the rear is working as I only cleaned it.

The front are new and installed. I’m going to check them readings too to be sure. Also, I’m going to familiarize with the main ABS plug terminals at the valve control/where and what terminals are what and what to look for as book says and you also. Been retaping my harness behind glove box today. To be continued. Thanks.
 
#13 ·
5E1- 37

Says
front 1015-1245
rear 1470-1730

By the book, your fronts are out of range , but dont condem then just yet.

The rear, if you show open (infinite) or closed ( zero resistance) it is scrap.

The sensor is magnetic pickup with windings.
Will have resistance all the time.
Spinning the wheel creates an voltage impulse that upsets the ohmeter and shows as changing resistance every pulse.
You cant use the number for anything other than proof something is happening.
TOMORROW, I can get you real time , real world readings
 
#14 ·
5E1- 37

Says
front 1015-1245
rear 1470-1730

By the book, your fronts are out of range , but dont condem then just yet.

The rear, if you show open (infinite) or closed ( zero resistance) it is scrap.

The sensor is magnetic pickup with windings.
Will have resistance all the time.
Spinning the wheel creates an voltage impulse that upsets the ohmeter and shows as changing resistance every pulse.
You cant use the number for anything other than proof something is happening.
TOMORROW, I can get you real time , real world readings
Here goes my rear sensor with no reading. I pulled it out, and pulled my differential cover to drain all that metallic oil as I’ve never done it and it can not be good for the sensor. My magnet inside the cover is full of fragments. I’m going to order the sensor and gasket. Also, I’m going to get me some gear oil, “brake clean as per FSM” for flushing the gear assembly and inside the case out. I have some questions on gear oil for another post where the manual specifies an additive to the oil for limited slip gear diff. I’m not sure if mine is or not and what oil to buy and all that. Thanks for the page reference on the ohms reading. I was looking for it but I get kind of mind fatigued sometimes and miss what I’m looking for. Tha book set is a lot of bouncing back and forth for me sometimes.
 

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#15 ·
Get a light and mirror an look in the abs hole.
You should see the ends of the teeth of this.
It also needs to be tight on the pinion.
That is to say it must turn with the pinion and not slipping or loose.
While you are at it, check the numbers on the ring gear to see what ratio you have.
Lots of cars had ratio changes with the wrong reluctor resulting in abs lights while driving
 

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#17 · (Edited)
Get a light and mirror an look in the abs hole.
You should see the ends of the teeth of this.
It also needs to be tight on the pinion.
That is to say it must turn with the pinion and not slipping or loose.
While you are at it, check the numbers on the ring gear to see what ratio you have.
Lots of cars had ratio changes with the wrong reluctor resulting in abs lights while driving
I’ll try to get a light and mirror and see if I can get a look at what’s in there tomorrow. Here is some photos of the sensor and what appears to be a gear tooth. I have no idea how long it’s been stuck to the magnet but I inspected the big gear in the rear end housing and I can’t see any missing teeth. I spin the tire and the large gear does not move, only the small gears for each side move in opposite directions.

What can I do to inspect the large gear? Should I start the car and bump forward in drive to move the gear? Will it move like that in the air on the stands? Is it safe to do so without hurting the car? My safety 1st of course. Also, the sensor looks to be damaged like somebody grabbed it with channel locks maybe? Maybe grabbed it to “un stick” it and move it back and forthout of the way to get to the gears for changing possibly? Or mangled by that missing tooth in action. Anyway, a visual of the large gear seems to be ok at this point, but the smaller gears teeth seem to be worn a lot. My car seems to drive ok as I have not noticed anything. IDK, I guess I’m going to order the sensor, gasket, attempt to look in with the mirror and “see if the reluctor gear is tight on the pinion” with some kind of screwdriver or wood skewer, inspect the gear as best as I can, get some brake clean and reassemble it. I’m not going to tear into it any further as I believe it may be too much for a driveway on jack project. Any feedback is helpful.
Whoops,,just looked at a close up of the diff magnet.
You have a couple disastrous chunks there.
Could you clean them off and take close ups ?
 

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#18 ·
With the car on stands engine off, park brake off, trans in neutral, lay under the car and turn the driveshaft by hand.

I am not positive but think that piece might be part of a posi cone.

One of your many problems, the area where the reluctor and ABS sensor is , is in an area that the only way out is through bearings.
Blown up parts that get tossed up and over into there from the main housing area get stuck and mash up the reluctor, sensor and those bits go through the pinion bearings.

That fact one wheel spins easy when the car is in park shows the posi DONE!
Worn out is one thing, shedding parts is another.
I see a diff rebuild for Christmas.
To test the abs, sure plug in the wiring
But I would not be installing it .
Sure as s×//t, there is stuff up in the cavity waiting to destroy it.
 
#22 ·
Here is some up close photos of my differential. After spinning the wheel slowly in neutral, the ring gear has no missing teeth nor does the pinion gear to the driveshaft back there. I’m trying to locate a mirror to get a visual of the reluctor gear. I don’t know how normal it is for a stock non rebuilt rear end 130k mileage to have those (in my photos) little gears (left and right of the springs in the carrier) to be worn to a pointed shape on the “right” and worn Pitted seating area on the “left”.
 

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#23 ·
I think I found where the flying parts came from. I don’t know the name of the part as per FSM but here are some “before rotating” and “after rotating” the wheel in neutral. You can see a shot of a piece roughly 33 percent or a 3rd way around is missing. Circled in yellow is before (visible normal) and (non visible broken) as I’m rotating to another position.
 

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#24 ·
I had a look at my reluctor gear (sensor gear). It’s still there not in the best shape. I don’t see any missing teeth but not new looking either. I turn the wheel which moves the drive shaft while looking at the reluctor gear and the gear is “not” moving. It’s arbor (pinion gear shaft) is moving from what “little” vision of it I can capture way in there, while the reluctor gear stays put. Sticking a bicycle spoke in and trying to move it, it seems to barely move if even a 16th of an inch.
 

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#25 ·
Yup, part of the cone of the Auburn posi.

Sooooo,,,,,, basically, everything is junk.

99.9% chance the axles will be toast too when they come out.

I would not use the gear set out of a diff that has thrown parts around.

Basically you need
Posi
All bearings, seals , shims, crush sleeve
Gears ( great time to consider ratio change)
Reluctor to match what ever ratio you choose.
Likely axles.
Did i remember somewhere this is a big wheel car?

While I have coached guys here on rear end rebuilds, it is a tough deal for first timers with limited experience.
Might be time to find a complete used diff from someone you trust , or going to a rear end shop
 
#30 ·
Your diff is Impala specific ( think B4U caprice is the same) width
3.08 Auburn Posi 30 spline axle Corporate 8.5

Think you need to start a new thread about the pros and cons about exchange rear end vs rebuilds
Same thread could also go over pros and cons of ratio changes
 
#35 ·
Have to temper the above unfortunately - Zumbrota was bought out by Randy's a couple years ago and the part quality and offering has been mixed since then.


My friend is currently on the 3rd set of new differential gears from them in the same vehicle - can't make 100 miles before they destroy themselves. Put a set of used gears in from another vehicle and it's been fine for thousands of miles so it's not an issue with the housing or installation. To be fair, Zumbrota stood behind it, paid for all the shipping, bad parts and some of the labor so that's a sign of good service which is very important. Anyone can get a batch of bad parts, it's how you deal with it that matters. Seems to not be a "middle" offering anymore either - it's either a sub $200 ring and pinion or an $800+ ring and pinion.
 
#33 ·
Hello. I recently found rear end problems in my (not clone) 1995 Impala SS. The car has 135,000 miles on the odometer. I have a chewed up stock auburn, stock 3:08 gearing in there now. My car is on jackstands at the moment. I’m not planning to get this done over night. This car is parked. This post is continued from an ABS post problem that is seemingly being a bad rear sensor that was chewed up by rear end broken pieces. Note: The car drove fine when I parked it. Still will luckily. But who knows how long. So here is my introduction to my rear end rebuild. Feel free to tell me I’m on/ or not on the right Understanding track, plus picking up and quoting any bold questions I have in my post below. As I feel a need to know these things before I start. I’m still researching. Should be some good information and learning going on here for whoever. Probably going to buy a bearing brass,
And torque meter for pinion preload.

***Here is my quoted post from my ABS sensor problem turned rear end rebuild


First, I want to thank all of you for helping me on this post.

I’m starting a new post on my rear end rebuild soon. I will attempt to do it myself on my property. I am politely asking furthermore and would appreciate some input from people who know how it’s done while I do the rebuild. I’ve done hours of reading and watching trustful media on how rear ends are rebuilt. I worked as a lead man machinist in the past at a bearing manufacture. I used to finish machine (grind) bearings on all dimensions furthermore size matching raceway diameters to fit certain ball and roller diameter spreads to obtain correct radial play. After reading and watching video’s, I’m having a pretty clear understanding of:
1. Pinion depth
2. Ring gear backlash
3. The relationship of “pinion gear depth” to “position of healthy operational contact point of teeth on pinion and ring gear. (Brushed on yellow stuff)...Where it’s supposed to be
4. Spacing of shims on sides of differential carrier between carrier bearings and case to correct backlash of ring gear to pinion- to FSM spec. Need understanding of how tight the carrier should be between the shims though. No play obviously understood as backlash should not change or shift side to side (left right). I’m guessing the correct backlash and the shims that fit the tightest without exceeding preload is the ticket.
5. Test bearings vs depth guage for setup of pinion gear shim selection.
  • I know the honing of the inner diameter (bore) of the pinion gear bearings makes for a slide fit of the two bearings onto the pinion gear shaft. This all to position pinion depth and “remove bearings easily” if I need pinion depth change by a pinion shim change.
  • I know the pinion depth guage is used to obtain pinion depth without installing the carrier and testing with the gear tooth paint and dis assembling to add or subtract shims to achieve the sweet spot with the paint. (Heel, toe, peak, valley etc. if you will) note: Peak and valley moreso involves carrier spacing shims if pinion depth is correct.

Question: Using a pinion depth guage or not, “is it essential to use a pair of set up bearings (honed I.D)?”

I mean, I am figuring right now that even using a pinion depth guage the end result of pinion depth may need to be corrected and using a non pressed set of bearings will still benefit the builder. Unless there is a way of adding some sort of stack height (shim+ pinion gear width from face seats+ pinion depth to center line of carrier axis. <<<<let me know.

Question: If I purchase an Eaton posi differential or any “non stock” carrier differential, does the pinion depth still match the FSM spec?

Question: if I purchase a non factory gear set, for example a 3:42 or 3:73, does the new pinion gear depth change from the FSM? I’m guessing that the diameter of the pinion gear itself gets smaller and the ring gear diameter gets larger so YES the pinion depth changes and a number needs to be added or subtracted to the FSM spec along with the number attached to any specific pinion gear. In other words, pinion depth consist of 1. The with of the shim, pinion gear, pinion depth AND the shift of the pinion itself that takes place when a larger carrier diff ring is installed? Is this true?? This is all what I need to know which way to set up my rear end will be better-using a depth guage or not.
*Im guessing using a depth guage would be easier with rebuilding my rear end with an identical auburn and stock size pinion gear and ring gear pair and starting with my old shim.
*Im guessing not using a depth guage would be easier in the sense of not having to add all those numbers up and formulating pinion depth with aftermarket ratio change to the 3:42 or 3:73 (whatever it is if you will). This being if pinion depth changes from the FSM drastically with new ratios. I’m guessing it does since a larger ring would be going in-this resulting in a larger number in the depth reading from the centerline of the carrier.


⚙ Finally the reluctor ring gear that interacts with the ABS sensor. I need to know what reluctor ring goes with what “pinion gear and carrier ring set”. And, of the same importance. If the reluctor ring that goes with any particular “pinion gear and carrier ring—set” fits with any chosen carrier differential being an Eaton for example.

End note/s: My vehicle is going to be driven on the street as a regular driver. So, that being said, I hear Eaton differentials are for straight drag type driving and they can have cornering problems and make noise. I’m not saying they are not good parts. I’m saying I don’t want to pay for High performance parts to have my car making rear end noise because I went to Walmart. Further explanation is this. I hear just about everyone wanting a better than stock Auburn or recommending something other than an Auburn like an Eaton, Tru Trac, Locker, Yukon. Whatever it is... It don’t really matter. I may not be naming the correct names. What I’m saying is this. All I want is a reliable rear end with a gear change ratio. And no problems because I put something in my car that has no purpose as a daily tip driving city application. My example was an Eaton. I’ve read they are good but the reason is for the strip. My Auburn is 130k old I’m guessing. I don’t want any Eaton problems after 4 thousand miles because I don’t drag race and want to have an Eaton like everyone else. You see my point. Now if a performance carrier “differential” other than an Auburn is going to last longer than an 3:42 or 3:73 ratio with an new Auburn replacement, let me know and what it is. What I’m asking is this: Is it going to be a mistake rebuilding my rear end with a stock carrier and 3:42 or 3:72 ratio? If like what people say, “3:42 and 3:73 are easier on transmission life” wouldn’t a stock Auburn have a longer life with the gear ratio change also? Let me know.

So what combo of parts should I buy? I know there is a whole bunch of information out there but I’m skeptical about asking questions on post that are so old as people may not respond wasting my time and putting extra stress on me. Although I am utilizing that information, anyone can’t be mad at me For wanting answers to my specific case.

Sorry for the long post. But this is where I needed to start. I will be copying and pasting this as an intro to my new rear end rebuild done by me thread in the drive train section of the forum. Please feel welcome to participate in my first rear end rebuild. I can appreciate and am probably going to need some honest true facts and direction.

Thanks.
 
#34 ·
Do not know how many here are qualified to install their own ring & pinion AND limited slip differential.
Of those remaining, less are qualified to explain it in an ISSF thread.
Of those left of those remaining, less have the time to eloquently explain it in an ISSF thread AND answer all pertinent questions.

Long story short: it only needs done ONCE, CORRECTLY.
If you won't be surprised at the cost of a reputable ring & pinion installation, you won't regret having someone else do it right, once.

Forgot to say again, and it bears repeating: upgrade your limited slip differential past the OEM Auburn.
 
#36 ·
Update: My ABS light is off now. 🙂 This all after completely rebuilding the rear axle assembly. That's another story and a set of different problems. Anyway, I installed a new 3:73 ABS pinion reluctor, and new rear axle pinion speed sensor. This right after replacing the front left and right speed sensors. What happens now is this:>>>The ABS light on the dash comes on briefly then shuts off when I turn the key to on. Then when I turn the key over (starter motor engaged and moving) the ABS light comes back on while the engine is being turned over. When the car starts and key is released (engine on and running), the ABS light turns off. So thumbs up 👍 for this deal of my ABS light being on at me all the time. Thank you 95 wagon and everyone else for the help and input. I don't know if my ABS system is fully operating the way it's designed to (I hope it is) but at least I know it's closer to doing so. If anyone knows what I can look out for to know this, please chime in. Examples: is my pump supposed to prime and I hear it? When? Someone said 5mph I think? IDK. I haven't drove the car yet. It's not registered. I only did a three point turn in my driveway very carefully to turn the car around to bleed the rear brakes.