I changed my optispark and replaced my water pump not that long ago like 3 months not aftermarket parts I noticed my car over heats now what would be the proper way to bleed the cooling system
Whats the proper way to bleed the cooling system
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BIGPAPA467
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Wrong t ? Fans are working i notice the the driveshaft that connects to the water pump was not spinning andand it over heats then it spinning and it don't over heat
You should not be able to turn the impeller my hand while it's installed on the engine.
To answer your original question about bleeding air, use a vacuum-fill coolant tool. They're cheap - I think HF even sells one now.
Wait... can you re-word this into something my coffee-addled brain can understand? Are you saying the shaft doesn't spin while it is running and then suddenly starts spinning on its own?
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Yes exactly what I said
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And I'm not able to turn it by hand i even took the cover off the wp to see if it propeller moves while I crank the engine and it does put it all back then it work well and all of sudden I'll give it gas and It will start getting hot again and wp stops working
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That's what I'm thinking so I ordered a new coupling hopefully it's fixes my headache
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Just in case, somebody please show a pic of the correct orientation of the spline key sleeve between the engine & the H2Opump.
It's been installed backwards too many times.
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I double checked that side that has a grove around it goes towers the block and smoth side to the wp
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There's supposed to be at least one (if not two) O-rings involved between the enigine's cam nipple, the spline key sleeve, and the H2Opump.
the O rings mentioned go on both the WP drive spline and WP spline to "stabilize" the coupler from vibrating...typical cause of WP drive seal leak
There have been posts of people having worn/stripped splines in the coupler which can cause what OP is describing. If the splines on the WP drive gear are also worn/stripped...the shorter path would be go EWP as replacing that gear and drive is a big job. The gear can just be left in the motor with EWP
There have been posts of people having worn/stripped splines in the coupler which can cause what OP is describing. If the splines on the WP drive gear are also worn/stripped...the shorter path would be go EWP as replacing that gear and drive is a big job. The gear can just be left in the motor with EWP
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That's what I'm thinking I'm just going to trying with a new coupler I ordered ti see if it fixes the issue if not I'm going with ewp any recommendations of videos or step by step instructions on how to do it ?
I found this helpfull. I can't remember, and I'm not able to re watch this at the moment, but I seem to think they used a hammer to push out a peice. I definatly needed a press. Hammer was not getting the job done.
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Any one have a old not working wp I don't want to destroy my new water pump
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Did you remove the shaft coming from the block ?
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Yeah , I saw no functional difference, just ease of assembly
Big papa , did you actualy remove the front pump cover while it was still on
the engine , grab the impeller and try and turn it , like really try ?
If it turned , then look down behind and see if the coupler turns too.
There are only so many places it can slip.
Impeller to pump shaft
Pump shaft spline to coupler
Coupler to drive
Drive to driven gear
Stripped gears ( that was a " thing" with LT4 extreme duty timing sets )
No, just the coupler. The shaft is back there spinning away.
Looks like they did use a hydraulic press in this one.
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Yea I was going to say because if i have to remove the timing housing I rather just fix the problem lol. Did you have to used a hydraulic press to remove the parts from the water pump ? Or did you used a hammer 🔨 🤔 and a screwdriverNo, just the coupler. The shaft is back there spinning away.
Looks like they did use a hydraulic press in this one.
I may have punched the impeller off with a hammer and punch, and then needed the press for the bearing. I think the seal was with a screw driver.
Sorry, can't remember 100%.
Sorry, can't remember 100%.
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I see did used a hydraulic press to remove the inner components from the wp or did you used a hammer 🔨 and screwdriverNo, just the coupler. The shaft is back there spinning away.
Looks like they did use a hydraulic press in this one.
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