Water pump

There is a video on Youtube on the removal and re installment on the water pump. Make sure your sparks are hooked up properly, and dried. This was a brilliant design putting the pump over the plugs, wet plugs, bad day... Non the less it should fire right up...

 

are you saying that the spark plugs are fouled out by fuel, or what ?
I've changed the water pump 3 times before over the car history(bad remans) . I know these cars pretty good .\\, just had a corroded water pump bolt thats all . After the head of the bolt broke off I then tried to pull it straight off, but when i did it bent down somewhat and the water pump drive shaft broke off . Car ran great before trying to change the water pump .
What gets me is if the opti-spark was bad wouldnt it not have spark at the #1 spark plug wire ????

Thanks,

 

The question is, did you disconnect your fuel lines by some chance? Is the car turning over at all, make sure everything at the least is hooked up even if the wp is not you should get a spark. By the way did the wp break while you were driving? If so and water got over the place including and especially over the ignition packs, you may have to replace it or let it dry real good.

 

impalass96v8 I appreciate your help and time, but no offense I know what and what not to disconnect .
As I said Im getting spark and fuel and the car is turning over but not starting....thats what confuses me .

 

Well one thing that you should be aware of is the MAF, if it is connected and there is no tubing or the tubing is loose it will die. I would assume that you have all of this stuff off and you are trying to run it without it , if this is the case make sure the MAF is unplugged electrically it should run, but will throw check engine light and both cooling fans will come on. you could of soaked the opti with the water pump removal and it needs to try out, but the fact that it started right up then died, would indicate that it is something else to me anyway, but I guess it could be the opti.

 

I have everything hooked up except of course the air pump, water pump . The cts sensor is plugged into the harness .

94MI9C1 the question I have is if it is a bad opti then why am I getting spark at the # 1 spark plug ? I have fuel aquirting out at the schrader valve when I depress it . So Iam getting fuel and spark....thats what I dont get......

Thanks

 

Yeah if you are getting spark and fuel, then the only thing that I can think that it would be is the MAF, it sounds to me like it is connected and the tubing is loose, if this is the case then air will draw in after the MAF, it will cause the car to die. If you are just moving it, unplug the MAF as in the picture I have a attached and see if it will run.

 

Damn that's weird!!! Post how it turns out with the MAF issue!

 

MAF and tubing is all connected.... i can twist some of the tubing by hand but not loose enough to cause a problem .

Can giving gas(pressing on the accelerator pedal) to the LT1 without the throttle cable connected to the throttle body cause an issue with the computer . I also at the time(when the car first started and died with water pump removed) did not have the CTS sensor connected........its been connected(plugged into the harness dangling) the last few times I tried to start it .

FYI each time I have tried to start it I've always had the air tubing and MAF connected

 

Spray some carb cleaner into the throttle body and see if it fires, if so, fuel issue. If no, spark issue....and im not saying the infamous "opti" is wet bad etc....but the spark can be there, but weak. I assume the grounds on the head are connected as you said all was back except the water pump and air pump....just asking.

 

Throttle cable disconnected shouldn't cause a problem, the PCM on reads TPS which is on the throttle blade shaft.
I am not sure what the deal is, even though you have it connected try disconnected it and see what happens, just something to eliminate in my eyes.

CTS would be ECT if I am following what you are saying, which is the sender on the front of the water pump, really if it was disconnected I am not sure if it would run or not, I never tried, it is a good call to have it plugged in, but really it should only run rich. Sorry man, I am out of ideas.

 

Also note if you have fuel coming out of the shrader when you check it doesn't mean much, the fuel pressure could be crap, a gauge is the only way to make sure. I would assume that it doesn't have VATs on it, but that could be an issue as well.

Grounds on the head are a good call, check and make sure they are tight.

 

CTS = coolant temperature sensor
I assumed it was called CTS

I did break a couple of the ground wire ends off(everything I touched that day was breaking ) I took off what was left of the two broken ends and bought some connecters at O'reilly's that looked similar and crimped them on . I did this before I ever started it the first time . Just wonder if the grounds are good enough as I did not solder them etc.

Thanks for the replies so far......keep them coming as more minds are far better than one.....

 

I can tell you that if the CTS is hooked up wrong, or not well, the car will run like crap. When I installed the F-Body CTS on my ride, I had 2 wires swapped and the car ran like it had 5 cylinders or barely at all.

That was causing the PCM to think it was -40 and was throwing everything out of whack.

Ensure those connections are correct with a DVOM if you have one.

 

Id double check the connections on those grounds, make sure you didnt miss one (I think theres three).....it can happen

 

All the grounds are connected . I just crimped new ends on the two that broke.........

 

yellow spark is kinda weak IMO, may have the opti wet

 

I'm sure you may not want to spend any more duckets than you have to, but I would grab an opti from a junk yard, and a cheap pair of plugs to get the car running enough to help you get to where you were headed. I believe you probably do have everything hooked back up properly. I'd get Something long enough to get your car to a safe haven... I've got to say that for the most part, once that opti go, they go!!! To put it simply, its something silly and yet simple that's causing the car not to run...

 

Can I take the cap and rotor off and dry it out that way ???

 

You can do that sure, but I would recommend taking the opti off and doing it on a bench, alot easier than hunching over trying to clean it out. Also the firing order is embossed on the side of the opti, just take a sharpie and write the numbers on the cap when you put it back in.

 

I'd try that... I assume you have a diagram for your plugs once it dries and you plug them back up?

 

I found this link on how to rebuild an Opti http://www.impalasuperstore.com/nais...TOPIC_ID=47010

Question I have is where do I buy the rebuild kit with the Mitsubishi opti sensor . The link did not say where they bought the rebuild kit, it just said it cost $60.00.......

 

Does anyone know where I can buy the rebuild kit with the Mitsubishi opti sensor ?
Thanks

 

Last year, I believe in the spring time, 'NO DUBS' was selling sensors only. I bought one, and used in the Opti rebuild I did (AC Delco Cap & Rotor bought separately & sensor from NO DUBS).

I'd try and PM him to see if he ever stocked up on another supply.

 

i see alot wrong with this thread..


first you need to do more trouble shooting befor you dump money into anything.

have you tested the coil?

(assuming you have not) pull the coil wire off the opti and lay it next to he abs, (close to metal)

have some one turn the car over and watch the spark.

note the color of the spark...


do the same through the opti, pull a random wire (with the coil reconnected again) and watch the spart of the sparkplug

if its a solid spark all the way through ( lets then ASSUME the opti is ok)

whats the fuel pressure? its meaningless if you HAVE fuel @ the intake, 2 psi will get the fuel to the intake.

can you take a picture of the ground wires you broke?

also of the sensor wire

this will do for now.

Wolf

 

1995 caprice 350 LT1 all factory stock
Here is the story on my car......

Car ran and drove great, just had water leaking from the weep hole on the water pump. So I went to a local O'reilly auto parts to change water pump out (changed water pumps on this car before) while I was there in the parking lot .
I had the issue with the bolt seizing up and breaking that I explained initially in my post .
After hooking everything up except for throttle cable and maybe the CTs sensor, I then tried to start the car to move it a few blocks down the street to my mother's house . The car started then sputtered and died . I then checked everything again and then hooked up CTS(goes on only one way) and also hooked the throttle cable back up, disconnected the battery to try to erase any codes, then reconnected battery and tried to start the car again . It has not ran since.......so Im assuming the opti maybe got wet

I have great spark at coil and a yellow spark at the end of the # 1 plug wire.....

 

whats the fuel pressure?

did you drain the water befor you pulled the pump off?

how do the vaccuum lines look (2 lines that go from the intake to the opti

i need to see the pictures of the grounds that were fixed.

 

I am kindof curious to something in this, I just re read your first post, how in the hell did you get enough force to break the WP drive shaft, I guess that it can be done, but I would think that would take some force to do this. I would think as well that if enough force was applied it could of done something to the timing set?! Not sure though.

 

it really sounds like this car ran for a long time either very hot, or verrry wet...

 

CTS is a ford term ECT is a gm term each manufacturer calls it what they want. I say timing issue for sure. why or how idk, but thats my guess. ect being disconnected/faulty is only going to cause the vehicle to run richer than it should. do yourself a favor and re check all sensors one time and disconnect both battery cables and touch them to together that will drain all the capacitors in the computer. use some starting fluid and see if it helps if it does you may have a fuel issue. starter fluid will help you to get it started and allow for the computer to compensate in case there is a timing issue.