Was recently looking at this myself, but it seems to be a LOT of work/expense. A beefed up 4l60e seems to be the better option IMHO. This link is right in the stickies and may have the info you're looking for.


http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...com/vBulletin/5-drivetrain/235173-stickied-4l80e-swap-questions-wiring-etc.html

 

Fact:AStock4L80WillHandleMorePowerThanABuilt4L60.
AllYouNeed:
4L80Trans
CrossmemberFromClearImage.
DriveShaft.
BringBagOfMoneyToNab@EFIPerformanceInCharlotteHallMD
forTheSwap.

Nab

 

There is a 4L60e to 4L80e plug and play harness out there too.

D

 

As of this morning, a conversion is what I'm thinking. After having mine "built" by a reputable builder, lost 3rd after about a month of on/off driving. Too many times, as far as I'm concerned. Ever since I got into the LS swap realm (10 years ago), 80E conversions have been proven to last under high powered applications (500+hp/450+ftlbs, bench) better than most "built" 60E transmissions. I'm at that crossroads now. Read the referenced stickie earlier this morning.

 

Contact PerformaBuilt Performabuilt Performance Transmissions
The new 4L75E parts are out making the 4L60E series a lot stronger.
They are fair and easy to talk to.

I am using their Stage Two for drag racing and love it.
Using another for the tow car and keeps breaking..
So looking at PerformaBuilt one designed for Towing..


d

 

Well, you could get a manual valvebody for your 4l80e, that would elminate the need to get a standalone controller, which seems to me would be right in the 1000 dollar range if you wanted to have the ability to program every aspect of the transmissions behavior.

Its not going to be cheap, and while i guess the 4l60e is kind of weak, I thought performabilt really made a nice one (they have their black edition stage 3 or whatever, 1000hp+ capacity), but a weak design IS a weak design.

 

Well, you could get a manual valvebody for your 4l80e, that would elminate the need to get a standalone controller, which seems to me would be right in the 1000 dollar range if you wanted to have the ability to program every aspect of the transmissions behavior.

Its not going to be cheap, and while i guess the 4l60e is kind of weak, I thought performabilt really made a nice one (they have their black edition stage 3 or whatever, 1000hp+ capacity), but a weak design IS a weak design.

The 4L60E is not a weak transmission.
My Dads 94 Buick went 200,000 miles without a rebuild.

Two things that kill a 4L60E..Power and high RPM.
Same with a T350..took a while to get these strong enough.

The GM 4L75E are rated at 650ft lb torque.
Less parasitic drag than a 4L80/85/90E
Which is a version of the GM T400.
Larger diameter heavier parts.


Dan

 

Has anyone here actually ran a 4L80e on the factory computer?
100% verifiable?

I would love to know details.

 

Yes, have had 80E in wife's SS for 3 years.
Drove it from MD to NOLA (1100 mi) this past summer.
Road coursed, autox'd, and flogged it at drag strip.
Drove home.
Controlled by LT1 computer.

See linky Dan Fahey reposted.
Glen and I figured it out a few years ago.
His 80E is working well in his black SS.

For those suggesting a manual valve body 4L80, I believe that
Lock up is no longer available if you do this rendering it unstreetable for highway use. (RPMs too high)

Nab

 

I'm not going to argue, but how long a transmission lasts under stock power on a detuned car is not relevant. They last a long time it seems. Under stock power. Put a load on them AND don't take care of them and they will die early. And even earlier if you add power. More line pressure is your friend, as are frequent fluid changes and extra filtration. The slush box tuning kills them even sooner yet.

I bet a tuned and programmed 4l60e will last 300k miles or more buckled to a stock b body LT1.

This thread is about power though. I know people build 60e to withstand 800+hp. Stock is a different story.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

I'm not going to argue, but how long a transmission lasts under stock power on a detuned car is not relevant. They last a long time it seems. Under stock power. Put a load on them AND don't take care of them and they will die early. And even earlier if you add power. More line pressure is your friend, as are frequent fluid changes and extra filtration. The slush box tuning kills them even sooner yet.

I bet a tuned and programmed 4l60e will last 300k miles or more buckled to a stock b body LT1.

This thread is about power though. I know people build 60e to withstand 800+hp. Stock is a different story.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Here are the instructions to put a 4L80E into a b-body


http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...com/vBulletin/5-drivetrain/235173-stickied-4l80e-swap-questions-wiring-etc.html