You won't be trying to salvage the old seal--it gets destroyed in the process of removal from the end of the axle tube.

The seal should pop out with use of a large flat-blade screwdriver or and equivalent tool that serves as a pry bar.

If you took that much of a hit to that corner, you should carefully and thoroughly check the axle shaft and wheel bearing, too.

Raise the back of the car--pick the entire axle up with a floor jack--put it on jackstands if you have a pair--and rotate the rear wheels, either the right side (by hand) or with power (both wheels off the ground), and look for any indication that the axle flange is no longer true/flat--in other words, that the axle shaft may be bent, causing the wheel & rotor or drum to "wobble". If you find this to exist, a replacement axle shaft will be needed, at the very least.

 

God it done this am. Turns out the jolt was enough to totally dislodge the entire seal! It was pulled out and spinning on the axle. I installed a new one anyways.all good.
Thanks for the info.

 

You mentioned you hit 'real good'. It don't take such to tweak an axle. I take it you spun it in the air with no wheel like Navy- says to eliminate the possibility of wobble? Elst you're gonna be engaged in the stuff he lists anyway, plus a worn tire.

I know it's work, but I'd sure want to know if the bearing left its print on the shaft. Sure sigh it's gonna fail someday. Which day? And where?

 

yeah while the axle was out i looket at it and the bearing.....they look ok...smooth...no signs of indents on the axle...no whining or grinding heard or felt.... just happy im not spilling g90 everywhere,....

 

Lucky stiff. My experience tells me you get one more gimmee like that for the rest of the year. Use it wisely.

 

I just finished R&Ring the axle bearing and seals on my 9C1 rear this weekend, and thought I'd post this info regarding the correct seals for the application.

The incorrect seal for my application was a National P/N: 2043 (Shaft Size=1.94" Housing Bore=2.762" Outer Diameter=2.766" Width=0.5")

The correct seal was a Motor City P/N:S-8660S (Shaft Size=1.399" Housing Bore=2.292" Outer Diameter=2.296" Width=0.46")

 

Steve, I knew there was something about this that was bugging me....

8660S is a common industry-standard PN, and is found in the Federal Mogul data base as a National Seal product. The picture in this link is not representative of the appearance of the
actual part.

Motor City sounds like a re-packaged "store brand" line. Very common practice.

PN 2043 is actually the PINION seal part number.

From Rock Auto:
1996 CHEVROLET CAPRICE CLASSIC 5.7L 350cid V8 MFI (P) OHV : Drivetrain :Differential Pinion Seal
TIMKEN Part # 2043
8.5", 8.75", 8.88" R.G.; Rear Outer

It appears that Rock Auto, among others, possibly, has an error in their online catalog. It is pretty clear that the data listed is either entered incorrectly or is somehow corrupted, since the lookup for wheel bearing (axle shaft) seals ALSO includes a pinion repair sleeve (that presses over the pinion flange/yoke), which just happens to be 1.94" OD--used to repair a worn/damaged pinion flange surface that may be leaking (and allows continued use of the "standard" (PN 2043 or equivalent) pinion flange seal, instead of the "service kit" triple-lip seal, which involves installation of a new flange/yoke and special (OE 2nd design) seal package--GM kit 12470387.

NATIONAL Part # 99193 {Redi-Sleeve; 1.934" x 1.940" x .563"}

 

From my years of experience of auto repair, the part numbers stamped on all seals, bearings, & races are the numbers all manufactures or suppliers use. So if you have the numbers off you old one the parts store can cross-reference it.

 

I hit the curb hard one day and I decided to check my rear
end and wheels. It turn out that my wheel wobbled in and out.
I believe my wheel bearings are messed up and needs to be replace.
I took everything off but now I'm stuck and I can't get to the seal or the
the bearings. Need guidance. Will post pics soon.

 

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=238352

 

Never mind. Found the post on it.

 

Don,

Wobbling of the wheel means either a bent wheel OR a bent axle flange. Not good, either way.

Has nothing to do with the wheel bearing(s), strictly speaking, as they don't control or affect wheel location laterally.

I don't presume that you're saying you have removed the axle shaft when you say "I took everything off".....if the hit was hard enough, you may find it very difficult to even remove the differential center pinion shaft, which could be bent. Also, take a look at the amount of axle end-play on the side that took the hit as an indicator of something more significantly damaged internally.

Eaton differential replacement procedure (covers axle shaft removal & reinstallation)