Since the plug wires were now easily accessible after pulling the original headers out, I took the opportunity to replace the Magnacore wire set I was running previously. Turns out I'd burned through one of the wires, so all the better that I ordered a replacement set.

This time around, I went with Accel 's "Extreme 9000" wires.

Their claim to fame are the ceramic boots they use, which are advertised as being able to withstand 2000 degrees.

Somebody on the forum had suggest these a while back, so I decided to give them a try.

As most Plug Wires for LT1's, the length's on the Accel's don't quite match the factory wires, so you're going to have to be a bit creative when running them to the distributor.

Other then that, these plugs appear to be really high quality. Time will tell how good they are withstanding the heat.

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Installation:

I found that I could install the drivers side header with all the plugs/wires already in place. Plenty of space to slide the header up through the bottom of the engine bay.

The passenger side though, was a little tighter and I found it best to leave the number 6 and 8 plugs out, in order to have enough space to get the header in.

Once the header was in place, I installed the two plugs from underneath the car.

All in all, the new Pro Series headers went in really easily and to my surprise, despite their larger primary size, there's actually more plug clearance then with the original Tri-Y's.

Especially on plugs #3/5.

Pretty amazing in my opinion.

As with any header install, I'd recommend removing the starter beforehand. Doing so will make the header swap so much easier.

Only takes an extra 5 minutes, but pulling the starter gives you access to the back flange bolts, EGR pipe (if you still have one connected) as well as a clear shot to the fastener that holds the dipstick tube in place (which you'll have to remove in order to install the header) on the passenger side.

----------------------------

Speaking of the dipstick tube, reinstalling the original turned out to be my first setback...

Back when I'd installed the original Tri-y's, I remember having a heck of a time bending the tube to get in to clear the header, but eventually, managed to bend it just right and it went in.

This time around however, I wasn't as lucky. No matter which way I bent the dipstick tube, I couldn't get it to slide back into the block. After an hour of messing about with no luck, I decided to just visit a local shop and see what my options were...

Ended up buying a flexible dipstick tube from Lokar. Item Number ED-5001.

Should have done this right from the beginning. It slid right into the block first try. Took all of about 10 seconds.

Really nice looking dipstick with a solid machined aluminum handle.

Unlike the stock tube with is secured to the engine block half ways down - the Lokar uses one of the existing header flange bolts instead.

Again, really nice piece.

The only (potential) drawback is it's length. It's shorter then the factory tube. The top of the handle ends up sitting about level with the headers.

So make sure you let the engine cool down (or wear gloves) before grabbing the Lokar dipstick so you wont burn yourself on the aluminum handle.

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With the new headers on, the real work was about to start. The measuring, cutting and welding of the existing exhaust to get everything to bolt together.

Below you can see where the collectors on the new Pro Series headers end. The original Tri-y's (with extensions) hooked up to the exhaust perfectly, but because these Long Tubes are a completely different overall length, I had to have some extensions fabricated.

Turns out I also had to cut back the B&B exhaust a bit to get everything lined up.

 

Here are some pictures of the new flanges welded to the new extensions (and the tail end of the B&B intermediate pipes.

Finished.

Going to have to do some minor adjusting here and there of the exhaust, but for the most part, it's done.

 

Some engine bay pictures.

Here you can see the Lokar Dipstick tube. Not mandatory if you can Macguiver the original tube in place, but the Lokar goes in so much smoother and easier...

Notice the clear view/easy access of the plug boots. Awesome fitment.

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Conclusion:

As for performance, YES, the car definitely seems to be pulling harder from 3500 and up and before you ask, NO - there is no notable loss in low-end torque with the larger primaries. 😉

Maybe not as important to some, but still worth mentioning, I noticed the exhaust note has a deeper tone to it then before, but surprisingly, it's also little more tame (volume wise) at idle compared to the tri-y's. Wasn't expecting that.

At wide open throttle though, the long tubes are definitely louder.

All in all - happy with the outcome.

Awesome set of headers for those who are still sticking with the LT-1 engine. You're not likely to ever need anything more then these.

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One last thing...

Before I forget, there's the matter of the new transmission crossmember. What does this crossmember have to do with headers?

Well, apparently in order to run these headers, you need this crossmember for proper clearance. It's part of the total package.

The good news is that this tubular crossmember is noticeably lighter then the factory piece.

Better part of about 20 pounds lighter, in fact.

So for those looking to reduce weight, this definitely offers a decent weight savings.

It's also much, much easier to remove and install then the factory crossmember. No more having to wrestle that big, heaver stocker to get it off.

--------------------------------

A minor issue to be aware of. Unlike the factory cross member which has nuts welded at the top - the Clear Image version doesn't have these nuts. The mounting tabs are just flat plate.

In other words, there's nothing to thread the crossmember bolts into.

You're going to have to buy 4 flanged nuts and use a wrench to hold the nut from the top while feeding the fastener in from the bottom with the Clear Image piece.

Not a big deal - just be sure to have the extra hardware before hand.

The new crossmember also comes with a Energy Suspension poly transmission mount.

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Unfortunately, I did run into a (hopefully minor) issue with this tubular crossmember...

It's hitting the floor pans on both sides. Spoke with Dan at Clear Image and he said that it was normal for the drivers side to hit. He suggested I use a mallet and massage the floor pan to give me the clearance I need.

The passenger side hitting though, surprised him. He says that on his '95 - he can run his hand over top of the crossmember and not touch the floor pan at all. Neither one of us can figure out why my car is so different.

Car only has 40k on the odometer and the body bushings are perfect, so no idea why the crossmember is touching.

For now, I'm leaving things as is.

Don't really want to hit anything with a mallet but I may end up having to do just that. I've noticed a minor vibration under my feat when driving.

It may be due to the crossmember touching the floor pans. Or perhaps the stiffer, poly bushing doesn't soak up vibrations like the factory rubber one does and is instead, sending the vibrations into the floor.

I can't say for sure yet...

 

That’s a nice looking setup. I have headers that I’m gonna install on MuleDawg one day this summer, not as sexy as yours but still a nice look I think. I haven’t decided on the mufflers I want to use , but one step at a time.

 

Just curious, why did you decide to go from try-y’s to pro series headers?

 

I was bored. 🤣

Actually, this past year I've had all kinds of ideas floating around in my head of what I wouldn't mind doing to this car in the future.

I've got two LT-1's in my garage right now. One out of my '92 Vette, the other out of my old '93 Trans-Am.

One' a stock bottom end (Going to be rebuilding it this summer) the other is a fully forged 396 stoker.

I also have some Competition Ported 210 AFR Lt4 heads that have been sitting in my room for 5 years just waiting to be installed on something.

Should I ever decide to build up this Impala (Most likely I will eventually) - these headers will probably be needed anyway, so at least I'll already have them when the time comes...

The Tri-Y's are perfectly fine.

I'd have no issues recommending them to anyone. But if someone has any plans on building a serious LT-1, Long Tubes are definitely the way to go in my opinion.

I'm basically trying to future-proof my engine, if that makes any sense.

 

Are you willing to sale me those tri y headers?

 

I of course do everything wrong once before I do it right. Went with a local shop cat back system. They welded the back of the cats of course, annoying. Plus when I lowered the car and swapped out sway bars the over the axle part wouldn't clear any more so now it's dumped behind the axle.

So paid for nothing really lol.

And in order to redo it I gotta go tri y + cats + cat back. Maybe it'll be a next year thing but for now just gotta run it as is unless I can cop a set of CIA headers for cheaper.

Least it sounds good without any drone so there's that.

 

Have to say how jealous I am, how clean your engine is.

 

Very very nice install and review!

 

If you selling tri Y let me know I’m in Toronto area

 

Nice demo of your new headers! Big project finally done, I've been very pleased with the

QH002SS

Quad-1 header; 1 3/4" - 304 stainless steel

w/Chromex coating mated to Borla catback exhaust. However, despite the protective coating there's still corrosion, oxidation, and rust around near the cat converters after about 15 years in use. What do you use to keep your engine bay parts so clean?

 

What do you use to keep your engine bay parts so clean?

Photoshop! 🤣

Kidding.

In all honesty, pictures on the internet tend to make things look better then in real life.

When I bought the car in 2016, it had 33k on the odometer and the car had never (and still hasn't) seen snow or salt. So that helps. Nothing was ever really "dirty" to begin with.

I keep things simple. Once a week I wash the car and I soak a microfiber towel in whatever soap water I have left in the wash bucket and quickly wipe over everything in the engine bay. The air intake. Inner fenders. Fluid Reservoirs etc. etc.

Just a plain old wet towel.

Only "product" I use - is 303 Aerospace Protectant on the plastic parts and Samco Hoses to keep them looking shiny. It works, so I use it.

 

Awesome write up! Thanks for sharing.

 

 

Pro Series Headers:

Thought I'd post this up since there isn't very much information on the forums in regards to these headers.

Thought maybe this might help some of you.

These are full length 1-7/8" Pro-Series Headers by Clear Image Automotive, made of stainless steel.

I purchased them last year, but they didn't arrive until December and since my car had already been tucked away for the winter, I had to wait until spring before I could install them.

I just finished putting them in this past weekend and thought I'd share my take on them.

For the record, these are replacing a set of stainless Gen II Tri-Y headers (also made by Clear Image) that I installed a few years back on my 95 Impala SS.

I said back when I reviewed my Tri-y's that I thought their quality, fit and finish were second to none.

These Pro Series headers follow in those same footsteps. Quality is absolutely top notch.

Amazingly enough, despite being physically larger then the Tri-Y's in basically every way, these headers went in just as easily.

A testament to how well these were designed.

These aren't "direct" bolt-in headers like the Tri-y's are, unfortunately. The Tri-y's will fit any stock or aftermarket exhaust system when you purchase the appropriate extensions (also sold my Clear Image) which allow everything to go together. No cutting or welding required.

The Pro-Series, are not direct bolt-ins (unless) you purchase the Clear Image cat-back designed specifically for these headers. Should you choose to keep the exhaust you already have - you're going to have to make some alterations to your existing cat-back.

This may be an issue for you depending on whether or not you know someone who can weld/fabricate exhaust components.

I'm currently running a B&B exhaust system which I love the sound of. It's also an extremely rare exhaust system on these cars because its long since been discontinued. Although I'm sure the Clear Image exhaust is a terrific piece - I just can't bring myself to get rid of the B&B right now...

Since I knew keeping my current exhaust was going to be an issue during installation, when I ordered the Pro Series headers - I also ordered some extra flanges and V-band clamps from Dan, so at least I'd have most of what I'd needed to alter the B&B and get it to fit.

Here are some pictures I took the day the new headers arrived. They were very well packed and survived the journey to Canada without damage.
View attachment 204512 View attachment 204513 View attachment 204514 View attachment 204516 View attachment 204517

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These headers don't come with gaskets, so keep that in mind when ordering them. You're going to need to purchase a set separately. I chose to go with a set of "Remflex" graphite gaskets - item number 2007 and they worked out perfect. Very nice gaskets and I'd have no problem recommending them.
View attachment 204518
View attachment 204585


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These photo's illustrate the differences between these two headers. Very different designs but as mentioned earlier - quality wise - they're both equally well made. Highest quality headers on the market for our cars. Bar none.
View attachment 204519 View attachment 204520 View attachment 204521

Also where did you order the setup from? I’m currently looking for the exhaust clamps you have in order to have them welded up like yours are for a semi sort of quick disconnect. Also one more … I think 🤔 we maybe 🤔 step brothers cause of the Chuck Taylor’s!!!

 

 

Clear Image Automotive is where I bought the headers and additional clamps/flanges.

High Performance Exhaust Systems - Performance Auto Parts

Perfomance Parts - Performance Auto Parts

www.clearimageautomotive.com

I'm sure they'd be willing to sell you whatever style clamps you need. Give them a call.

Otherwise, just do a basic search for V-band clamps/flanges.

For years, all I'd ever known was the traditional 3 bolt header flanges and "slip-in" style exhaust systems. Never knew of anything else until I bought the previous Clear Image Tri-y's for this Impala.

After using the V-Band clamp stuff, I'd have a hard time going back.

Everything comes apart so easily. Never any leaks and you never have to worry about going back to re-tighten anything.

Hope that helps.


Side note: Chuck Taylors are the only shoes I'll ever wear. 😂

 

Clear Image Automotive is where I bought the headers and additional clamps/flanges.

High Performance Exhaust Systems - Performance Auto Parts

Perfomance Parts - Performance Auto Parts

www.clearimageautomotive.com

I'm sure they'd be willing to sell you whatever style clamps you need. Give them a call.

Otherwise, just do a basic search for V-band clamps/flanges.

For years, all I'd ever known was the traditional 3 bolt header flanges and "slip-in" style exhaust systems. Never knew of anything else until I bought the previous Clear Image Tri-y's for this Impala.

After using the V-Band clamp stuff, I'd have a hard time going back.

Everything comes apart so easily. Never any leaks and you never have to worry about going back to re-tighten anything.

Hope that helps.


Side note: Chuck Taylors are the only shoes I'll ever wear. 😂

Thanks for the advice & yeah same here… I have flat feet 👣 I love my chucks

 

So I have a couple of questions for you if you don’t mind. First, why did you switch from the Gen ll Tri-Y’s was it a performance thing? And second, have you heard any positives or negatives with BBK or hooker headers verse clear image?

 

... have you heard any ... negatives with ... hooker headers?

From personal experience, I can say:
Hooker headers are also known as 'cookers'. If you use these headers, even if they are properly coated, everything within 6" of the headers must be heat wrapped.
If they are not properly coated, then everything within 9" of the headers must be heat wrapped.

Either way, you should also use LOTS of heat shielding.

Long story short: I can't / won't recommend Hooker headers over higher quality-made headers such as any headers made by Clear Image.

 

You will not go wrong with Try-y headers, the fit, form, and function is second to none.