I used to know this but have been out of it for a while. I want to install hardened wheel studs (already have them from ARP) but there isn't room behind the axle flange to install them without removing the axles. I need to change the differential fluid anyway so it's just as easy to pull them out and have the studs pressed in. Isn't there a bolt on the shaft that comes out giving me access to the two C-clips? Getting old and it's a little foggy to me ... Thanks.
Tar Heel
Rear Axles
You probably already figured this out, but to pull the axles there is a metal pin that goes through the diff that holds the axles in. To get this pin out, you have to remove the bolt that goes through the pin on one end. I think it takes a 10mm socket to get the bolt out, pull the axles to the outside as much as possible, slide the pin out, then push the axles back in to remove the c-clips. It'll come back to ya once you get in there...
You probably already figured this out, but to pull the axles there is a metal pin that goes through the diff that holds the axles in. To get this pin out, you have to remove the bolt that goes through the pin on one end. I think it takes a 10mm socket to get the bolt out, pull the axles to the outside as much as possible, slide the pin out, then push the axles back in to remove the c-clips. It'll come back to ya once you get in there...
1. Rear axle on jackstands
2. Remove wheels, calipers/brackets, rotors
3. Remove diff cover, clean all gasket surfaces - cover & housing; look at magnet (stock cover) for any indication of heavy metallic wear
4. Remove cross-pin retaining bolt - inspect condition and replace as necessary
5. Remove cross-pin (aka differential pinion gear shaft) - inspect condition and replace as necessary
6. Push axle shaft(s) inward to release C-clip - have a magnet handy to catch clips
7. Remove axle shaft(s) gently to prevent damage to bearing or seal
8. Inspect condition of shaft(s) @ bearing contact area, look for wear pattern indicating possible bearing problem, look for any indication of seal leakage and correct as needed.
Replacement items/materials: diff cover gasket, gear lube, friction modifier, thread locker (Loctite or equivalent)--cross-pin bolt/cross-pin, bearings and seals if needed
Reinstall torque values:
- cross-pin bolt 27 lb. ft with 242 Loctite or = substitute
- diff cover bolt(s) 22 lb. ft
- caliper bracket bolt(s) 74 lb. ft with thread locker
2. Remove wheels, calipers/brackets, rotors
3. Remove diff cover, clean all gasket surfaces - cover & housing; look at magnet (stock cover) for any indication of heavy metallic wear
4. Remove cross-pin retaining bolt - inspect condition and replace as necessary
5. Remove cross-pin (aka differential pinion gear shaft) - inspect condition and replace as necessary
6. Push axle shaft(s) inward to release C-clip - have a magnet handy to catch clips
7. Remove axle shaft(s) gently to prevent damage to bearing or seal
8. Inspect condition of shaft(s) @ bearing contact area, look for wear pattern indicating possible bearing problem, look for any indication of seal leakage and correct as needed.
Replacement items/materials: diff cover gasket, gear lube, friction modifier, thread locker (Loctite or equivalent)--cross-pin bolt/cross-pin, bearings and seals if needed
Reinstall torque values:
- cross-pin bolt 27 lb. ft with 242 Loctite or = substitute
- diff cover bolt(s) 22 lb. ft
- caliper bracket bolt(s) 74 lb. ft with thread locker
If you snap the bolt that locks the shaft in place, ask me what happens if you put it back in because the threads weren't damaged (mine broke at the end of the bolt, not at the threads). Well specifically what happens after you drive it 2 years like that.....
Short version: ka-BOOM then you install a Truetrac carrier with your old gears.
Short version: ka-BOOM then you install a Truetrac carrier with your old gears.
About to remove the rear end myself. Was kinda curious if I should rebuild with new bearings and seals. 70k origin miles never changed fluid.
I want to go synthetic. Is that a problem with the posi or do I just need to additive to fluid?
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I want to go synthetic. Is that a problem with the posi or do I just need to additive to fluid?
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Do not bother going synthetic. There was at least one big thread about this (and likely tons of others earlier) and after having tried synthetic I concur, the "normal" GM stuff is tried and true and works fine for a stock differential. I tried Royal Purple with no additive (because RP said it wasn't required) and my rear made a lot of noise. If you do try synthetic, you'll at least need a friction modifier, but again, I don't think it's worth it.
If the seals and bearings are still okay, I wouldn't change them, but that's my $0.02. My car's 115,000 miles, fluid changed for the first time at 100,000 miles, and the original bearings and seals are just fine.
If the seals and bearings are still okay, I wouldn't change them, but that's my $0.02. My car's 115,000 miles, fluid changed for the first time at 100,000 miles, and the original bearings and seals are just fine.
Yeah I did a search and there are several people that say to just use the GM fluid and don't look back. I will be tearing mine apart when I replace all the bushing in the control arms.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Synthetic may be a good idea...depending on your use.
Back in the day, when I regularly towed 4000 pound trailers at 70mph with B cars, the stock GM or whomever gearlube would be gritty and not slick at 15k miles...it got too hot. Synthetic was still slippery. I haven't used dino oil in a diff since.
Note that every vehicle in my sig I owned for at least 100k miles, I beat on every one of them, and my current vehicle is at 206k.
/Ed
Back in the day, when I regularly towed 4000 pound trailers at 70mph with B cars, the stock GM or whomever gearlube would be gritty and not slick at 15k miles...it got too hot. Synthetic was still slippery. I haven't used dino oil in a diff since.
Note that every vehicle in my sig I owned for at least 100k miles, I beat on every one of them, and my current vehicle is at 206k.
/Ed
I've used synthetic gear lube,and my Eaton posi complained terribly. Went back to ordinary Valvoline gear lube,along with two bottles of GM posi additive. It's been quiet ever since.
I would have liked to have tried a friction modifier in my synthetic oil, to see if I could have gotten the best of both worlds, but I didn't want to risk further experimentation.
I believe the FSM says to replace differential fluid every 10,000 miles if you're towing trailers frequently, so at least the Engineers accounted for the fact that the natural oil will break-down more quickly with trailer towing. I'm amazed that the manual says the diff fluid NEVER needs to be changed if you don't tow; maybe that was assuming the cars wouldn't make it 17+ years
.
I believe the FSM says to replace differential fluid every 10,000 miles if you're towing trailers frequently, so at least the Engineers accounted for the fact that the natural oil will break-down more quickly with trailer towing. I'm amazed that the manual says the diff fluid NEVER needs to be changed if you don't tow; maybe that was assuming the cars wouldn't make it 17+ years
.
I believe it says to change the fluid (if positraction) at 6k miles,then it never requires changed. Most people never change it even once,in my experience.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
