[Jimpala95]

Here's some pics 4 Doors if it helps. I replaced my intake gasket last year.Definitelty use the thread sealer on the bolts to prevent oil from wicking up the threads.There are no intake bolt holes that go into coolant passages. Be sure to get all gasket surfaces absolutely clean/degreased. I ran a 1/4" x 1/4" bead of the gasket maker in the pic on the china walls,and continued it up on the heads a 1/4" as well.
Good luck hope you find your coolant leak. FWIW,prior to me doing the intake,my t-stat housing and gasket were leaking a pinch, and the fan did push coolant up onto area below throttle body and linkage.

Jim

 

[gbhs72]

4Door,
As I said before, I"m no LT guru but I too don't see how water could migrate to the area you're telling us about. I might see it if you have a blown head gasket. If that is the case then I would check the compression. That and do the pressurizing since your SIL has the setup for that. Nothing ventured nothing gained.

Mark: Snowman-33

 

[BALLSS]

maybe the T Stat gasket letting coolant mist/piss in that direction to land on intake...but you should be able to see that happening

FWIW,prior to me doing the intake,my t-stat housing and gasket were leaking a pinch, and the fan did push coolant up onto area below throttle body and linkage. Jim

I know Op said he has replaced stat & gasket not long ago....still worth checking though

Is the black T stat housing aftermarket?

 

[j cat]

remove the TB coolant lines bypass them see if it still leaks ...

steam pipe or the TB ...

if you do have to take it off when installing I use a couple of bolts[no heads] or rods that fit into the manifold hold down threads. this will prevent any sliding messing up the liquid sealer on the front, back . let it setup for 30- 45 min then put it on... the hard part is setting the intake in place perfect drop straight down ... be very careful on the injector wiring and connector / cable harness .
might be good to replace the PCV intake grommet if weeping/loose..

I have a 5.3L in my 2000 silverado that has with the cold extremely cold temps 5F creating high fuel trims . these engines have defective upper intake gaskets . what happened is these gaskets GM , are not compatible with alcohol fuels so they breakdown and crack. It appears I have very small leaks and with the extremely cold temps the air is more dense creating the PCM to see that the fuel trims peg out . then the lean codes . very common gasket failure,.. felpro is the recommended gasket kit. a lot more complicated but no coolant on this upper intake .

 

[BALLSS]

remove the TB coolant lines bypass them see if it still leaks ...

steam pipe or the TB ...

.

BTW - I have done the coolant bypass on the TB so the hose does not go over to the TB but instead connects to the Crossover Tube on the pass side that runs to the back banjo bolts.

...and the reported coolant pooling is on DS, not PS of intake

 

[4DoorSS]

Here's some pics 4 Doors if it helps. I replaced my intake gasket last year.Definitelty use the thread sealer on the bolts to prevent oil from wicking up the threads.There are no intake bolt holes that go into coolant passages. Be sure to get all gasket surfaces absolutely clean/degreased. I ran a 1/4" x 1/4" bead of the gasket maker in the pic on the china walls,and continued it up on the heads a 1/4" as well.
Good luck hope you find your coolant leak. FWIW,prior to me doing the intake,my t-stat housing and gasket were leaking a pinch, and the fan did push coolant up onto area below throttle body and linkage.

Jim

Appreciate you taking the time to post up the info and pics. And thats where I was/am confused cause it sure did not look like the manifold bolts went into any of the coolant jackets. Will be picking up the FelPro intake kit on my way home tonight.

I appreciate all the thoughts on the T-Stat and Housing from everyone here but trust me....that is not the issue. It was perfectly dry and the fans were not even running yet and the car was just idling in the garage and it started to leak right away at the intake.

I know Op said he has replaced stat & gasket not long ago....still worth checking though

Is the black T stat housing aftermarket?

The stat is so new that I'm not even going to bother replacing the T-Stat. I will most likely Flush the HC again though while the system is down.

The Black Housing is just a Stock GM housing that I had Powder Coated Black along with the front WP cover. Dont see it much but at least I know it's there. :wink2: Just like the Shaved IAC Housing (cut off the Coolant section) which is also Powder Coated but dont see that at all.

 

[BALLSS]

Well Bob, like yourself we to can't see wtf there is coolant there. The front & rear intake bolts go into head "close" to water jacket which somehow may have developed a small crack letting coolant come up a bolt buy very unlikely

you have the drain hose mod for WP weep hole so coolant contamination into opti should not exist from that source. Yeah the vent hose runs right where your coolant pooling is but for the vent harness to drink up that much coolant and leak it there is also as far fetched

Maybe pulling the intake will reveal something but my $.02 is quite skeptical on that

There are two FelPro gasket sets. One is called "printo" which has the blue sealant around the ports. IMHO a better sealing one but the regular should be fine, especially on a stock head/intake motor

A Few intake R&R tips I found helpful

vacuum all around intake before removing it to clean up any debris that could fall into motor

Use a piece of cardboard and mark one end front. punch holes on each side and put intake bolts in order so you put the right ones back where they belong. Some have studs on them.

If intake does not just lift up when all bolts are removed (and if it does it was not sealed well) use a pry bar/big long screw driver on the front PS lip under intake manifold to pry it off. Can take some effort

cover lifter valley with rags and use rags or paper towels in head intake ports to keep the crap you will be scraping off from getting in motor

scotch brite pads help clean up the RTV

wipe the entire head & china wall areas with acetone...a few times before install of gaskets & RTV

Use Pernatex Black "ultra" RTV

Make sure all wires, etc are pulled away from the intake area so no interference when putting intake manifold back on

rehearse putting intake back on without RTV so you can best determine how you hold it and how you lean over engine bay. you want to land the intake dead nuts without sliding it forward & back which can compromise RTV seal

Run a 1/4" bead of RTV on each china wall and run it up onto the intake gasket about 1/2" each side. Let RTV sit for about 15 min.

Some use short pieces of wood dowel (pencil) on one side front & rear bolt hole as guides to drop the intake back on

let car sit for 24 hrs after intake is back on before starting so RTV can cure

Not a full tutorial but a few steps I have used (although never did use studs as guide to drop intake on) and never had one leak after.

 

[j cat]

I had this happen on a 1994 S10. leak was on the V6 intake manifold .. leaked out at a bolt, put thread sealant on it . stopped leak. that also was on driver side . old style manifold coolant runs thru that one.

 

[4DoorSS]

BallSS - thanks for the input and all you had listed there was on my agenda as I run through this process in my head. I'm off tomorrow and Friday so will see what pulling the intake reveals. Who knows, I may just get this all back together and discover nothing. If it does continue to leak, I will video what is going on and maybe someone will have some other suggestions. This leak based on what I've researched just seems to defy logic.

Oh...stopped at the one AZ store that had the Felpro MS95580 gasket set in stock, went out of my way to get it too. I even had him get his hands on it and hold it for me before I got there. The guy brings it out and it looked like some stomped on the damn box. I asked him to open the box to check the gaskets and they were mangled up pretty good. No way I'm going to use those and he understood why. All the other local AZ and Advances around me, of which there must be at least 5 of each store, did not have it in stock. At least the advance up the road from me will have it in tomorrow after 3.

I also had them order me in the EGR valve. I got the #EGR-1097 which they list for a 95 6speed camaro. This part is a BWD item and not AC Delco but I've had good luck with that brand.

 

[4DoorSS]

Check/modify that Oil pump Drive

Almost forgot about this but felt it was worth linking in this thread....

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...letin/2-engine-performance/1277425-96ss-lt1-oil-pump-drive-gear-iron-steel.html

I plan on inspecting it while the intake is off and will go with the idea that Area51 shared or just as simple as a Washer that Nab mentioned.

If you pull the intake, it's at least worth checking and making it better if possible IMHHO

 

[Jimpala95]

May sound crazy,but you're 100% sure what fluid you see on the intake is coolant?
Jim

 

[jasonlachapelle]

Felpro MS95580
I got the #EGR-1097 which they list for a 95 6speed camaro.

get the felpro 1284 intake gasket if you insist on changing it (not convinced that's your issue). Probably worth splurging on new injector o-rings since they are only a few cents.
good call on the 6-speed egr.

 

[j cat]

your purchase experience with the gasket kit I have had happen to me before.. example all stores DO NOT have the part but ONE store does have it .. that is the part is damaged returned and they try to sell to prevent loss to a sucker idiot.

advance auto store was looking for the warranty replacement for my opti ... one store had one .. it was all messed up then they could not get another so I got all my $$$ back..

I would get the gasket kit from rock auto much cheaper ..

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/.../chevrolet,1996,impala,5.7l+v8,1049701,engine,intake+manifold+gasket+/+set,5424

$8 good deal ..

only 2 left I just ordered this kit includes even the injector O rings sweet deal ..

 

[BALLSS]

using a washer on the small bolt to hold down the oil pump drive is not a bad idea

Do understand though that a old assembly top is more brittle and will crack if you put to much tq on the hold down bolt. I used a dab or blue loc-tite on the threads and a 1/4" drive to tighten.

IMHO if the cam is still stock there should be no reason to remove it

 

[4DoorSS]

your purchase experience with the gasket kit I have had happen to me before.. example all stores DO NOT have the part but ONE store does have it .. that is the part is damaged returned and they try to sell to prevent loss to a sucker idiot.

advance auto store was looking for the warranty replacement for my opti ... one store had one .. it was all messed up then they could not get another so I got all my $$$ back..

I would get the gasket kit from rock auto much cheaper ..

1996 CHEVROLET IMPALA 5.7L V8 Intake Manifold Gasket / Set | RockAuto

$8 good deal ..

only 2 left I just ordered this kit includes even the injector O rings sweet deal ..

This Gasket Set looked like it sat on their shelves for a while since it was a little Dusty and none of the other Stores even had it. Our parts are starting to not be stocked as much i guess.

Actually I think the Gasket Set took a wrong turn one night...down the wrong isle and ran into a Couple of Dead Batteries and a Monkey Wrench with a BAD Attitude. :smile2::laugh:

 

[BALLSS]

Bob

FelPro 1284

If you have to order the gasket set...get the "printo" seal one from Summit. I have gotten it at Autozone but long time ago

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1284/overview/make/chevrolet

 

[4DoorSS]

May sound crazy,but you're 100% sure what fluid you see on the intake is coolant?
Jim

100% I know it sounds crazy based on the design of this engine, but it was leaking out the 2nd Bolt back on the Driver side....read on :frown2:

using a washer on the small bolt to hold down the oil pump drive is not a bad idea

Do understand though that a old assembly top is more brittle and will crack if you put to much tq on the hold down bolt. I used a dab or blue loc-tite on the threads and a 1/4" drive to tighten.

IMHO if the cam is still stock there should be no reason to remove it

Depending on what Metal I find at Home Depot, I may get a little creative. Thinking of tracing out the shape of the Plastic and at the round end extending out 2 Tangs. I'll then bend those over a Socket of the same dimension and it should help hold the sides together. If nothing available then a washer will work.


Ok Guys....Got the intake off and FOUND where it was leaking....but I'm CONCERNED! All the bolts for the intake came out pretty much Dry except for the 2nd Bolt back on the Drv Side. The first Pic shows the Bolts arranged from Front to Back and Driver Side on the Right. If you look closely you may see how the 2nd bolt is a little wet and the little puddle of coolant on the bench....hmmmm?

Based on what I've seen of these Heads and where that Bolt goes, it's into a open hole in the Engine Valley Area. How in the Heck is coolant coming out of there? Is it possible that the Hole is so close to a water Jacket and the Thread Sealer on that Bolt finally let go? Just so glad the coolant went up the Bolt and NOT down the bolt into the Engine Oil.....Phew! However, is my cylinder head Toast, will new thread Sealer on the Bolt "Plug it Up"....Gawd I sure hope so.

The 2nd Pic shows the bottom of the Intake Manifold at the Front Driver Side. If you look closely enough you can see the Droplets of Coolant in that where the Gasket was. Every other area of the intake surface was dry.

The 3rd pic is with the Gasket still on the Head. Again signs of coolant in that area but pretty much dry everywhere else on both heads. Also, you can see the Rust Outline on the head where it was burning off as it came out. Other head does not look like that.

4th pic is with the gasket removed and that 2nd hole back from the right is the Bolt Hole in question hear. This opening just goes right through into the Valley area. The Front bolt Hole to the right of it is just a Pocket that is not opened to anything.

I'll cross my fingers and hope that the Cylinder Head is not cracked and if it is (make prayers here Please 0 ) that the Bolt Sealant will at least plug it up and I dont have to possibly swap a Head. Like I said, this seemed to defy logic but it sure appears from what I found that this is the culprit.

Be glad to hear your thoughts on this and is its possible for the Head to be cracked to allow this type of leak. Still feel fortunate that this did not wipe out the lower end of the engine.

 

[BALLSS]

Not seeing anything like a crack or how coolant could come "out" of the head onto intake bolt and go "up"....thinking the coolant is landing on the area of that bolt and migrating "down" onto bolt threads

obviously you have a closer view than we do. I see that intake bolt going through the head casting into the lifter valley. "maybe" the top threads of the hole do get close to the water jacket of the head and "maybe"...but man just not seeing that from my view (limited)

from this side of the keyboard I say you just use good thread sealer on the bolts and that should seal it

I know the source of coolant is still a mystery...

 

[4x4high]

I would drain the oil into a very clean container, I'll bet there is coolant mixed and I'll bet it's from a crank in the block behind the pushrods. When I was building engines professionally it was a common area to find cracks.

 

[j cat]

I would drain the oil into a very clean container, I'll bet there is coolant mixed and I'll bet it's from a crank in the block behind the pushrods. When I was building engines professionally it was a common area to find cracks.

if he has coolant in the oil it will only require the removal of the oil fill cap. that will reveal the coolant ..

PCV will also suck the coolant water vapors so a sludge color of the coolant.