SSSSSLLaaaaaaaaaaaap.. cwm3 That's just a wake up. I like and respect you too much to call you stupid. I've been following, even though I don't have an LT.
Glad it's done and hope it's stay good for more enjoyment.

Mark: Snowman-33

 

I put the intake manifold on my BBC by using a pole pivoted on the opposite wheelhouse and was tied to the manifold. I lifted it with one hand on the side I was standing on, positioned it over the engine with the other, and lowered it into place. Nothing moved, and I did not disturb the silicone on the end rails. Nothing to remove. Just put the bolts in, and tightened them. I did glue the manifold gaskets to the heads.

If you need the screws to guide you, you can use long set screws with Allen recesses. No need to cut bolts, or slots in the bolts. I tried this with my BBC, and the set screws interfered with the manifold while lowering it. That is why I tried the pole and string method. It turned out to be so easy, that I was amazed, and had the manifold in place in about 10 minutes. It took me longer to glue the gaskets, and put the silicone on, than place the manifold.

 

Dang, you got me lost how you did that. I read that a few times and still can't picture what you are describing :wink2:, sounds easy though.

The sacrificial bolt I had in my "Bucket of Bolts" and cut easy with hacksaw. At the back of the manifold you have to fight with keeping the harness and that metal EGR tube out of the way while you hold up the back end of the manifold as you guide the beast into place. I just eyeballed the manifold over the block and dropped the front of the manifold down til it touched lightly on the dowels. Then just slid the manifold backwards a little (while still holding up the arse end of the manifold) til it dropped onto the 2 dowels up front, then just let the back of the manifold drop into place. It was a little bit of a bitch with the car jacked up at the front while standing on a ladder and leaning over the fender holding that manifold.

The nice thing about the LT1 head gaskets is they have 2 little plastic locating pins on each side that just pop into the head and lock them down. Didn't have to fight with those at all. >. I used a little dab of Ultrablack on the corners, then snapped in the side gaskets and then the bead along the rails and up the side about an inch and then let it sit for a few minutes before the BIG Drop.

Still trying to figure out what you described....draw me a pic. :nerd:

 

Pretty easy; put the manifold across the gap between the radiator and FEAD, get a 6 foot wood broomstick, put one end on the right wheelhouse slightly in front of the fuse block, lay it diagonally across the car over the center of the manifold, tie the manifold centered with some strong string running straight across above the center of the manifold, or in an X, over the pole (insert two or four bolts in the manifold to tie to if necessary, 3-6 inch gap between pole and manifold as necessary to allow you to lower it far enough to sit where it is supposed to be). You can now easily lift the manifold with the end of the pole on the driver's side. You can then walk the pole toward the rear of the car, and move the manifold over the engine, pivoting the pole on the right wheelhouse. Since you are not straining to elevate the manifold, you can use your other hand to get it into position to lower it. When you have it in position, lower the end of the pole in your hand until it is in place. Of course you have the gaskets and silicone in place before the final placement of the manifold.

I do not have any pics, nor can I draw the process. My BBC manifold is about 35 lbs. With a 2:1 leverage advantage, and not reaching over the car, I am lifting about 18 lbs. and close in to my body (think; doing an arm curl with an 18 lb. dumbbell). Once I have the slack taken up, I do have to lift the pole about 4 inches before moving the manifold, and lowering it into place. I put a folded towel on the right wheelhouse so I did not lean the pole on anything harshly. I hope the above explains what I did better.

 

I gotcha now. :smile2: For me, I was standing on a small ladder sideways while reaching/leaning over the fender and had to contort my "non slender/non flexible" body into positions it doesn't like to go. >.

 

Good to hear your on the "done" side of the job 4Door

...on the temporary bolt/stud for manifold alignment....put them front & rear hole of ONE side of motor, not one on either side. That is why you saw if they stuck up much on either side, because they are angled out, it is awkward getting the manifold to set on them. If on same side of motor front & rear...goes right on and if that side is right the other will be dead nuts also

 

Good stuff, I also fixed my first intake manifold a few months ago during the past summer.

To add; I was chasing out of range values on the scan tool. Searched for vacuum leaks as well, plugged/replaced a lot of lines during the search. After a while I tried to diagnose the intake manifold since it's obviously important for vacuum, and it has bad reputation. No oil leaked from the front or rear of the intake manifold on the car. Plugging in a vacuum gauge gave normal 'healthy engine' readings. Spraying fluids, and blowing propane all around the intake did not show any change in idle, neither did it change any readings on the scan tool. Decided to go ahead and replace the intake manifold gaskets + sealant anyways, since it causes many other people problems, and it would not hurt at nearly 200k miles. I was also curious.

Some of the intake manifold bolts and fasteners came off without any extra effort. They are the first and only fasteners I have ever removed in any car casually...No doubt the only fasteners that will ever come off with ease on this Northern Illinois 9C1. After the manifold and associates came apart, there was no 'china wall' sealants in good condition remaining since I do not remember any significant removal effort... Used Permatrex 'right stuff' sealant on the front, rear, and towards the edges of both gaskets.

Fuel trims are now in range on the scan tool after the intake manifold fix. But not exactly even yet (banks). Drove the 9C1 to NE Ohio atwice after the IM fix, and got 23-25 MPG on full highway tanks on those trips, which was an improvement on previous roadtrips MPG. I have an exhaust gasket or cracked stock manifold on the passenger side as well. Ugh fuel pump wiring.

 

this type manifold most use the threaded studs with no head for a perfect alignment no error. I would have had them stick up 1 inch over the manifold . slot is good to remove them since you cut them short .

the best info on this is,,,,,,,,,,,,, the manifold bolt was the coolant leak .. good info on that.. easy fix for others , just pull bolt , clean and apply thread sealant ..

 

this type manifold most use the threaded studs with no head for a perfect alignment no error. I would have had them stick up 1 inch over the manifold . slot is good to remove them since you cut them short .

..

As I mentioned above, the angle of the bolts going into the heads, prevents you from leaving them to long. If they stick up too far past the manifold, you will not be able to get the manifold to slip over those 2 dowels if they are much longer than that. I kept backing the dowels out until I got to the point where the manifold would not drop on and then just threaded them in a turn or 2.

I know why you did this R&R, but didn't see thread on that subject while looking quickly this morning before I dig into things at work.

Did you find the root cause of the coolant puddling up on the front of the intake manifold?

I have that thread linked in the first post and updated that thread. I know for sure the coolant appeared to be combining out of that 2nd bolt. One I pulled it, it was evident that bolt was wet and the intake and head in that area had coolant there. All I know for SURE is that since bolting it all together it has been dry and holding well. I know it seems impossible to have coolant come out there but that how it looked when testing and disassembly of parts sure confirmed it to me.

 

I know why you did this R&R, but didn't see thread on that subject while looking quickly this morning before I dig into things at work.

Did you find the root cause of the coolant puddling up on the front of the intake manifold?

 

No contortions my way. You can even start a couple of the bolts with your free hand, before you do the final placement. I am all of 5'6" , can only bend my right elbow about 20 deg., and have a torn muscle/tendon in my left shoulder. It was still easy.

 

I don't consider myself particularly strong...but I've had the manifold off the car twice now and both times I did not have any issues with alignment while putting it down. I got an extra bolt that was longer and cut the head off. I didn't have to slot it as I left more than enough to remove it by hand. Anyway, did a couple of test runs and then put the rtv. Aligned the one bolt hole int he rear and dropped straight down.

I do remove the engine wiring harness and move it out of the way. Some people leave it in place and try to wiggle the manifold between all the wires. This is insanity IMO. It only takes a few extra minutes to unplug everything and lay the whole harness out of the way and it makes it much easier to plop the manifold back down without any problems. YMMV. There's a thousand ways to skin a cat.

 

I usually just muscle it into place as close as possible. Never worried about it being perfectly aligned as it touched down onto the heads. Although you don't want to have to walk it around a lot, it can be moved around a little in order to align the bolts.

Fool proof way to seal the front and back rails:

1. Place a 1/4" tall bead of the "Right Stuff" on the front and back
2. Drop the manifold into place, and align the bolts (Do NOT tighten).
3. Snug the bolts down just barely tight, do NOT torque yet!
4. Wait about 30 min. to an hour for the sealant to get semi hard, but not fully cured
5. Torque the manifold down to spec, in sequence (inside out).
6. Let it sit overnight to cure.

You're essentially letting the sealant form/become like a gasket before applying the additional compression from torquing it down. Pretty much what the directions say. Have done it this way dozens of times, never had a leak. Only drawback is you need a pry bar to remove it.