3.42 or 3.73 axle gear - MUST include limited slip differential, unless you prefer one-wheel burnouts
PCMPerformance.com 91 Octane Tune
1st base intake resonator delete / big ol' plastic plastic pipe intake upgrade

Tire / brake / steering / suspension upgrades often get overlooked.
Frame reinforcements nearly always get overlooked.

 

"Frame reinforcements"??
What exactly do you mean?

On a car with 18k miles, you definitely need to closely examine every bushing, hose, etc.

Lots of parts expire due to age, even if the car is not driven.

This is especially important on a car that you intend to modify and expect to perform well. Where is the car from (location)?

Ay good thinkin!
Probably be easy to get excited when you see only 18k miles on the dash an overlook the fact that not being driven hardly at all for 25 years chits probably rotting somewhere!!

 

so i was thinking of buying a cold air intake and also headers i bought a sway bars front and back also shocks and struts
and inner and outer tire rods as for axle gears im not sure what i got i do know that only one wheel spins on burnouts

 

Moderator comment: Marky, YvesSS and others, there are LOTS of good threads discussing this. I strongly encourage you to post links to existing threads that yvesSS can read.

 

Here you go, you can find useful information on here.

Go Fast Basics for Your B-Body!

Here's a list of basic recommendations for making a b-body faster. The important thing to remember is that our cars are old and somewhat unique compared to the usual Camaro and Vette. Our cars are heavy and have an LT1. With that in mind, talk to the guys here on the forum or a local B-body...

www.impalassforum.com

 

On a car with 18k miles, you definitely need to closely examine every bushing, hose, etc.

Lots of parts expire due to age, even if the car is not driven.

This is especially important on a car that you intend to modify and expect to perform well. Where is the car from (location)?

 

On an 18k car? No mods. Every single thing you do to that car that is non-stock will make it worth less. If you want to mod, flip the car, prices are high. You'll make enough to buy another SS and pay for all mods.

 

Well, we don't know anything about the history of the car. How long has he owned it, how much did he pay, etc. It may or may not make sense for him to "flip" it.

I agree that it's generally better to start with a higher mileage car when you intend to mod it, but there are those who think it's awesome to be able to buy an old car as if it were new and do as they wish with it.

[/ramble]

 

If someone'll pay LESS because of 3.73, a PCM Performance tune (don't get Keith'd), or a cat-back exhaust system that releases power and resists corrosion better than the OE exhaust, find a buyer who appreciates that you did it for them already.
Keep the stupid homeplate & 1st base Helmholtz resonators in case they prefer the OE 15horse penalty.

EVERY IronBlock LT1 should be tuned, just for the durability improvement for the 4L60E.
A buyer who prefers the OE tune doesn't know any better.

 

Keep the stupid homeplate & 1st base Helmholtz resonators in case they prefer the OE 15horse penalty.

You've got me very curious. I always thought the resonator deletes were more just to clean up the engine compartment. I would never have guessed them to be a restriction.
I've deleted home plate already, but never got around to first base. Sounds like some before and after testing could be a fun little project. I've been looking for an excuse to work on the wagon a little.
Not that I doubt your statement (I know you know your stuff)... but curious what data/testing you have related to this?

 

+1 on pcmperformance.com

 

Weld your hood shut is the most bang for bucks mod you can do.

 

Lance, as one of the elders who still posts, I truly hope that you'll add and / or amend anything from me about this, with the exception of me surpising myself with my own fart while you were making me laugh myself out of my chair.

Back on topic.
yvesSS, Jim Paley, et al. :
There is no commercially available Caprice / RoadMaster Fleetwood 'name brand' cold air intake that will outperform anything sufficiently similar that one can make oneself with plastic pipes from Lowe's Depot True Ace, and an airfilter with as much exposed surface area as possible.
Any such intake automatically 'deletes' 1st base, segregates home base from the intake path, and probably releases at least 10 peak horse if the piping is not undersized and provides enough smooth airflow to the throttlebody.

Here i am feeling in a good mood for once and here you come along reminding me about more money i wasted on the "KN super fcn duper" cai

Smh thanks bro

 

Lance, as one of the elders who still posts, I truly hope that you'll add and / or amend anything from me about this, with the exception of me surpising myself with my own fart while you were making me laugh myself out of my chair.

Back on topic.
yvesSS, Jim Paley, et al. :
There is no commercially available Caprice / RoadMaster Fleetwood 'name brand' cold air intake that will outperform anything sufficiently similar that one can make oneself with plastic pipes from Lowe's Depot True Ace, and an airfilter with as much exposed surface area as possible.
Any such intake automatically 'deletes' 1st base, segregates home base from the intake path, and probably releases at least 10 peak horse if the piping is not undersized and provides enough smooth airflow to the throttlebody.

 

Here is an 'totally enjoyable' video to watch - from Motor Week:

 

Hi post #5 answers your question. I would ask that you get a agreed policy on a car that old an low miles ! Like with Hagerty.
You will be pissed if grandma turns left and totals it !!

Have fun and start driving it !
-ALF out...

 

Rear gear ,and tune are totally invisible.
Why reverse them when any potential buyer would simply assume the car runs great?

 

Rear gear ,and tune are totally invisible.
Why reverse them when any potential buyer would simply assume the car runs great?

Lmfao i like how you be thinkin