Ok fellas, I have a stock 96 Impala, mileage 50k. I’m looking for suggestions for getting more out of my LT1. Looking to replace/upgrade Heads, rockers, rods, throttle body, Cam, air intake, headers, exhaust, & re-gear to .410’s since I’m running 22’s. Having a huge problem finding parts or vendors! Anyone have a lead on quality parts?
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Ant0921
Suggestions on how to get more out of my stock LT1.
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Ok fellas, I have a stock 96 Impala, mileage 50k. I’m looking for suggestions for getting more out of my LT1. Looking to replace/upgrade Heads, rockers, rods, throttle body, Cam, air intake, headers, exhaust, & re-gear to .410’s since I’m running 22’s. Having a huge problem finding parts or vendors! Anyone have a lead on quality parts?
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Go to guy for heads and cam
Best exhaust/header
All the other stuff you listed is available online from many places
Best exhaust/header
High Performance Exhaust Systems - Performance Auto Parts
Perfomance Parts - Performance Auto Parts
www.clearimageautomotive.com
All the other stuff you listed is available online from many places
The Yukon Duragrip is currently the best deal you will find on a posi, which is $300 brand new.
For the 4.10 gears, I recommend Quick Performance, as they only charge $99.
www.quickperformance.com
For the record, this is the "super budget" option:
Go to the junkyard and go to the section where they have the Trailblazers and Envoys. They all came with either 3.42, 3.73, or 4.10 gears, and most of them came with a posi. Just walk around and check the option codes until you find one that has 4.10 gears and posi. Bingo.
I recommend Edge torque converters, as they are solid and affordable. It's about $400 for their 2600 stall converter, and you get lifetime re-cuts for $50 (basically a "rebuild").
Amazon.com: Yukon Dura Grip Limited Slip Positraction Unit for GM 8.5"/8.6" Differential with 30 Spline Axle, 2.73-And-Up Ratio, YDGGM8.5-3-30-1 : Automotive
Buy Yukon Dura Grip Limited Slip Positraction Unit for GM 8.5"/8.6" Differential with 30 Spline Axle, 2.73-And-Up Ratio, YDGGM8.5-3-30-1: Automotive - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
For the 4.10 gears, I recommend Quick Performance, as they only charge $99.
GM8.5RP-GM 8.5" 10 Bolt / Ring & Pinion / Gear Set
For the record, this is the "super budget" option:
Go to the junkyard and go to the section where they have the Trailblazers and Envoys. They all came with either 3.42, 3.73, or 4.10 gears, and most of them came with a posi. Just walk around and check the option codes until you find one that has 4.10 gears and posi. Bingo.
I recommend Edge torque converters, as they are solid and affordable. It's about $400 for their 2600 stall converter, and you get lifetime re-cuts for $50 (basically a "rebuild").
Mild Street Edge Converter for GM LT/4L60E Transmissions [MSE-LT/4L60E] - $390.00 : Edge Racing Converters, More Horsepower with More Torque Guaranteed!
Edge Racing Converters Mild Street Edge Converter for GM LT/4L60E Transmissions [MSE-LT/4L60E] - The low heat, high performance torque converter designed with street use in mind. The Mild Street Edge LT/4L60E is used in applications Up to 1997 with up to 450 HP and is limited to 2400-2600 rpm of...
www.edgeracingconverters.com
I recommend that you contact Lloyd Elliot with your questions and discuss with him your end goals. I used Lloyd Elliot for my heads and camshaft selection and I am very pleased with the results.
As for torque converters, again talk to Lloyd Elliot or the guys at Yank after you have settled on the heads and cam.
Later,
Michael
As for torque converters, again talk to Lloyd Elliot or the guys at Yank after you have settled on the heads and cam.
Later,
Michael
OK. Being one of the original members of the Impala SS club from 1996, I've seen, heard and done many things. Some smart, some not so much.
Here are my thoughts. My assumption is that you are NOT a "Cost is no issue" person, but one like who wants bang for the buck.
!. 4.10 rear gears may be an option, but find one of the free calculators on the web, enter your total tire diameter and figure our your RPMs at driving speed and determine what you're willing to sacrifice in gas mileage for off the line performance.
2. Heads. If you can find a Camaro/Corvette/Firebird aluminum heads for cheap it's an option but I would put it low on the list. I would FIRST opt for the 1.6/1 ratio rockers. Youtube probably has videos, and there are tons of forum posts. 1.6 rocker and cheap and easy HP.
3. Throttle body. Don't bother. Don't listen to the hype. Until you're pulling 383 or more cubes, it's a waste to time. Joh Moss, who developed the Impala SS ran a stone-ass stock throttle body on a 400+hp engine. Opt for the Firebird/Camaro Mass Air Flow Sensor and delete the intake side 'screen'. Worth 3-4hp for low bux.
4.Get one of the many fresh air intakes. I have the RAISSE intake. Clear Image Automotive makes a version: High Performance Exhaust Systems - Chevy Impala SS Cold Air Intake
5.Don't bother with connecting rods. Waste of money unless you're building a killer engine
6. Cam. There are ton of options and I would do the above FIRST and then talk to some tech folks at some cam vendors for their thoughts.
7. Several reputable maker make good headers. Clear Image makes a good set. Pypes exhaust makes a good, well built set of exhaust pipes with a crossover. Get the Turbo Pro mufflers.don't get the race pro. you'll hate me. There are other alternative exhaust systems that are good as well. Ask questions an make your own decision.
8.Check in with Hotchkis Engineering and avail yourself of the complete set of their goods. Get a set of Bilstein shocks. Get a giant set of Wilwood/TCE front rotors to go with those huge wheels.
I've done this for 25 years. I'm not the be-al end-all expert in all things, but I know what I've done that has worked. I'm also willing to speak to you on the phone, if you'd like to have a conversation at length.
You have a beautiful car so far! Congratulations on that. People who don't know 'old' cars have NO IDEA what it takes to keep a car that good looking for that long! Be happy to speak any time. Just PM me.
Here are my thoughts. My assumption is that you are NOT a "Cost is no issue" person, but one like who wants bang for the buck.
!. 4.10 rear gears may be an option, but find one of the free calculators on the web, enter your total tire diameter and figure our your RPMs at driving speed and determine what you're willing to sacrifice in gas mileage for off the line performance.
2. Heads. If you can find a Camaro/Corvette/Firebird aluminum heads for cheap it's an option but I would put it low on the list. I would FIRST opt for the 1.6/1 ratio rockers. Youtube probably has videos, and there are tons of forum posts. 1.6 rocker and cheap and easy HP.
3. Throttle body. Don't bother. Don't listen to the hype. Until you're pulling 383 or more cubes, it's a waste to time. Joh Moss, who developed the Impala SS ran a stone-ass stock throttle body on a 400+hp engine. Opt for the Firebird/Camaro Mass Air Flow Sensor and delete the intake side 'screen'. Worth 3-4hp for low bux.
4.Get one of the many fresh air intakes. I have the RAISSE intake. Clear Image Automotive makes a version: High Performance Exhaust Systems - Chevy Impala SS Cold Air Intake
5.Don't bother with connecting rods. Waste of money unless you're building a killer engine
6. Cam. There are ton of options and I would do the above FIRST and then talk to some tech folks at some cam vendors for their thoughts.
7. Several reputable maker make good headers. Clear Image makes a good set. Pypes exhaust makes a good, well built set of exhaust pipes with a crossover. Get the Turbo Pro mufflers.don't get the race pro. you'll hate me. There are other alternative exhaust systems that are good as well. Ask questions an make your own decision.
8.Check in with Hotchkis Engineering and avail yourself of the complete set of their goods. Get a set of Bilstein shocks. Get a giant set of Wilwood/TCE front rotors to go with those huge wheels.
I've done this for 25 years. I'm not the be-al end-all expert in all things, but I know what I've done that has worked. I'm also willing to speak to you on the phone, if you'd like to have a conversation at length.
You have a beautiful car so far! Congratulations on that. People who don't know 'old' cars have NO IDEA what it takes to keep a car that good looking for that long! Be happy to speak any time. Just PM me.
1. 3.73 may be enough. A 4.10 axle will make you think hard about a 2nd car for highway trips in excess of 1 hour.
If you forget to include installing a limited slip differential, you may regret the axle gear upgrade.
2. If you must pay full labor price for removing & replacing heads, seriously consider 1.6 roller rockers on your OE heads.
If you forget to upgrade the valvesprings, you'll wonder what went wrong, or blame someone else.
3. Hawkeye LT4 is absolutely right about the OE throttle body. Under 400 horse, the OE throttle body is enough.
Same goes for the MAF sensor, though. Under 400 horse, stick with the OE MAF sensor, and leave the screen on.
Over 400 horse, I say get your OE throttlebody ported up to 52mm, and get a live road tune for speed density.
4. If you want more bang for your buck, buy a big@$$ airfilter, and build your own intake with plastic pipes from HomeDepot or Lowe's or ACE, unless you need to brag about the branding on your cold air intake to brand-whores.
Oh, and anyone can do better than K&N filters. I'd rather spend $150 on a desert racing airfilter and $75 @ a hardware or plumbing store, than use a free K&N cold air intake. If you insist on a K&N airfilter, wrap it up in pantyhose. Seriously.
5. EXACTLY.
Unless you go nitrous, supercharge / turbocharge, or bigger engine / better heads & cam, leave the bottom end alone.
6. As he said, before you go 'inside' the engine, do all the other stuff 1st, then do brakes, steering, suspension, etc.
If you avoid ported heads & cam, you will never need a ported 52mm throttlebody (58mm is usually too big), an F- / Y- LT1 MAF (or go speed density), bigger injectors, headers, or high flow cats.
7. EXACTLY.
8. Again, I'll stipulate to what Hawkeye LT4 said. What I don't hear / read enough about, is reinforcing the frame, especially after 25+ years. Then again, our cars may become illegal in another 25 years, so maybe don't reinforce the frame?
Pretty much what Hawkeye LT4 said, though.
If you forget to include installing a limited slip differential, you may regret the axle gear upgrade.
2. If you must pay full labor price for removing & replacing heads, seriously consider 1.6 roller rockers on your OE heads.
If you forget to upgrade the valvesprings, you'll wonder what went wrong, or blame someone else.
3. Hawkeye LT4 is absolutely right about the OE throttle body. Under 400 horse, the OE throttle body is enough.
Same goes for the MAF sensor, though. Under 400 horse, stick with the OE MAF sensor, and leave the screen on.
Over 400 horse, I say get your OE throttlebody ported up to 52mm, and get a live road tune for speed density.
4. If you want more bang for your buck, buy a big@$$ airfilter, and build your own intake with plastic pipes from HomeDepot or Lowe's or ACE, unless you need to brag about the branding on your cold air intake to brand-whores.
Oh, and anyone can do better than K&N filters. I'd rather spend $150 on a desert racing airfilter and $75 @ a hardware or plumbing store, than use a free K&N cold air intake. If you insist on a K&N airfilter, wrap it up in pantyhose. Seriously.
5. EXACTLY.
Unless you go nitrous, supercharge / turbocharge, or bigger engine / better heads & cam, leave the bottom end alone.
6. As he said, before you go 'inside' the engine, do all the other stuff 1st, then do brakes, steering, suspension, etc.
If you avoid ported heads & cam, you will never need a ported 52mm throttlebody (58mm is usually too big), an F- / Y- LT1 MAF (or go speed density), bigger injectors, headers, or high flow cats.
7. EXACTLY.
8. Again, I'll stipulate to what Hawkeye LT4 said. What I don't hear / read enough about, is reinforcing the frame, especially after 25+ years. Then again, our cars may become illegal in another 25 years, so maybe don't reinforce the frame?
Pretty much what Hawkeye LT4 said, though.
I appreciate the direction!! My goal is (500-550 hp) maintaining 85 mph on the freeway with plenty of horsepower left to blow past folks while not compromising my engine & transmission. Trying to make 2, 5 to 8 hour trips a year. I’m not racing, drag stripping or showing out at red lights. Modest budget around 7k/8k.
On the cheap, listen to the guys above.
My original motor with 1.6 rr, new springs, GMPP 845 cam, Tri-y headers, 2 1/2" exhaust and PCM tuning, dyno tested at 306 RWHP. I ran that combination for years until I spun 3 mains at 100k miles. I believe that I upgraded the cam and roller rockers at 45k miles.
I am not easy on my Impala, as I use my Impala for Road Racing and Autocross. I spun the 3 mains while autocrossing
YMMV
My original motor with 1.6 rr, new springs, GMPP 845 cam, Tri-y headers, 2 1/2" exhaust and PCM tuning, dyno tested at 306 RWHP. I ran that combination for years until I spun 3 mains at 100k miles. I believe that I upgraded the cam and roller rockers at 45k miles.
I am not easy on my Impala, as I use my Impala for Road Racing and Autocross. I spun the 3 mains while autocrossing
YMMV
Honestly, if you want to make that kind of power, just call up Karl Ellwein and buy a built engine from him.
Sell your low mileage LT1 to make some of your money back.
Sell your low mileage LT1 to make some of your money back.
Ok, well would it’s not a must to spend 8k. With what yal first suggested, any guesstimating how much hp the upgrades would make & would I be able to achieve my freeway goals?
What I suggested several posts back is much cheaper than what Hawkeye LT4 suggested.
If you do my suggestions 1st, and are still hungry for more, by then hopefully you'll have more answers and a better understanding of why an '11-'17 Caprice PPV (or some other YOUNGER car) would be a better investment because it will impress the stopwatch more effectively than a mid-'90s Caprice, especially once you spend mod money.
I shudder to think of the wear & tear on the structure of a 550 horse mid-'90s Caprice which may not find another owner …
If you do my suggestions 1st, and are still hungry for more, by then hopefully you'll have more answers and a better understanding of why an '11-'17 Caprice PPV (or some other YOUNGER car) would be a better investment because it will impress the stopwatch more effectively than a mid-'90s Caprice, especially once you spend mod money.
I shudder to think of the wear & tear on the structure of a 550 horse mid-'90s Caprice which may not find another owner …
Weld your hood shut on that low miles beauty!!!
Get a Caprice or donor rolling chassis and have at it with the go fast mods.
500+ hp out of a LT1 with ALL required supporting mods is big money. Parts and labor = $7-9000 for a properly built LT1; $2-3000 for a properly built trans; $2000 for a properly built rear end; $2-3000 for a properly built suspension AND brakes. You can not half ass a 500+hp build and expect it to operate without supporting mods and/or last.
If you have to have it then talk to Karl Ellwein and have him build your 500+ hp LT1.
He built two for me: 383 #26 for my 96SS and 357 #44 for my 95 9c1.
Ellwein Engines
Get a Caprice or donor rolling chassis and have at it with the go fast mods.
500+ hp out of a LT1 with ALL required supporting mods is big money. Parts and labor = $7-9000 for a properly built LT1; $2-3000 for a properly built trans; $2000 for a properly built rear end; $2-3000 for a properly built suspension AND brakes. You can not half ass a 500+hp build and expect it to operate without supporting mods and/or last.
If you have to have it then talk to Karl Ellwein and have him build your 500+ hp LT1.
He built two for me: 383 #26 for my 96SS and 357 #44 for my 95 9c1.
Ellwein Engines
Karl built ERE-7 for me. Made 420hp to the wheels. One issue is that very few people have the tuning software to tune a built LT1 with the opti. So you may need to add $ 1,000 dollars for an LS style ignition set up. If I was going for 500hp today I would find a crashed Camaro ZL1 and buy engine auto trans, wiring harness and PCM/BCM. 650HP from the factory.
Finding a tuner isn't so difficult that you would convert to coil-on-plug ignition as a response.
My personal opinion is that these "LS-style" conversion kits only make sense for people who want to keep their existing LT1. It wouldn't make sense to buy an LT1 crate engine and put a Torqhead kit on it, when you could just buy an LS crate engine. Again, my opinion.
I think you're on the right track with the crashed ZL1, but that will still be one of your more expensive options. You can easily make that kind of power with a junkyard truck motor.
My personal opinion is that these "LS-style" conversion kits only make sense for people who want to keep their existing LT1. It wouldn't make sense to buy an LT1 crate engine and put a Torqhead kit on it, when you could just buy an LS crate engine. Again, my opinion.
I think you're on the right track with the crashed ZL1, but that will still be one of your more expensive options. You can easily make that kind of power with a junkyard truck motor.
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