~400 hp at the flywheel or ~ 350 at the tire.

12.5% drivetrain loss through a 4L60E is unrealistic. Expect more like 20%.

Powerstop big brake pick with slotted rotors

What big brake stuff does Powerstop make for our cars?

5. Basic cast iron porting on the heads by me.
6. Porting of intake to make the heads. Might pay to have this done properly as I am new to the process

This is where you will fail or succeed, as far as your goal is concerned.

1. Camshaft – something similar to the 226/232 .578/.574 110 LSA. – 1900-6200 RPM cam from Eliottsportworks

You will absolutely need to upgrade your cam if you expect to get anywhere near your goal.

I really do not want to buy a set of heads. I want to save money, and I want to learn how to build, and it doesn’t really seem necessary based on my research.

Lloyd Elliott heads & cam will put you in the low 400 range at the wheels, with supporting mods. That's basically the best case scenario.

Can you come within 50 WHP of the best LT1 head porter in the game? That's the question.

 

12.5% drivetrain loss through a 4L60E is unrealistic. Expect more like 20%.


What big brake stuff does Powerstop make for our cars?


This is where you will fail or succeed, as far as your goal is concerned.


You will absolutely need to upgrade your cam if you expect to get anywhere near your goal.


Lloyd Elliott heads & cam will put you in the low 400 range at the wheels, with supporting mods. That's basically the best case scenario.

Can you come within 50 WHP of the best LT1 head porter in the game? That's the question.

Here is the powerstop kit Part # K5064-26 from advanced auto.
had the modify thr slide pins a bit to clear the rotor and the diameter of the metal surrounding the wheel bearings was larger than the factory rotos by a hair so I took some material out of my wheel to make it clear.
I was disappointed by the fitment issues but the kit Performs really well.

As for beadwork and cams.... you guys are right. There is no way I will get even close to the performance flow of professionally manufactured heads from a guy like Loyd. But I will spend some time cleaning up material that is clearly getting in the way of optimal flow when I take the heads off an examine them.

I was on the phone with Loyd earlier this week and he said that the gasket match technique used for matching intake and head flow patterns is a waste of time based on his experience. I find that hard to believe but I guess he is the expert. He also mentioned that finding cams to do his custom grinds on is next to impossible right now. I guess nothing is in stock.

His feedback on my budget build is to do the following...

"CC 502 camshaft
2800 stall
OR
Cc 501 camshadt
with no stall

Howard's 98215 springs
Remove the flat wire damper
Reuse retainers and locks"

What do you guys think about this?
I feel like these basic improvements don't justify adding headers. The small amount of airflow improvement doesn't seem to justify buying headers over stock manifolds....

 

Similar to what I used to have.

You likly dont need that much cam for your goals.
I had the " dated " comp 304 ( 210-220) and it still was a 6000 RPM cam .
Mild at home head work ( albeit Camaro aluminum )
and supporting mods was good for 336 RWHP.
With an Edge 3000+ and 3.73 gears it would drill just about anything from a stop light and was super happy cruising.

 

what is albeit camaro aluminum?

 

We all have our preferences

Advanced Induction - LTx Cylinder Heads

 

The F Body had aluminum heads.
They are what I used .
People argue iron vs alloy

common LT1 casting numbers are

10207643...94-96...350..........Gen.II LT1, aluminum, reverse flow cooling, 175/68cc port volumes
10128374...92-up...350..........Gen.II LT1, ,aluminum, reverse flow cooling,175/68cc ports

 

You can install hydroboost instead of the vacuum boost for your brakes. You will probably need the swap with an aggressive cam. You can use one from a 2007 (and similar) GMC, or Chevy 2500-3500 truck, and a flat mounting plate from an early 90s Astrovan, or on ebay (about $30). There will be a mod to the eye for the the 3/8" Caprice brake pedal post. The hoses are available from Rock Auto for a mid 80s diesel Oldsmobile. You will be impressed with the additional breaking power.

The major porting is making the intake and head ports match. You can do more, but that is one of the places that can cause turbulence if not properly aligned. Use your intake gasket to make them match (AKA gasket match). Aluminum is easier to cut, but iron gives you time to avoid mistakes. If you make an error porting, err on the side of making the head port larger than the intake manifold port.

You need some specialty tools to build the rear. If you are close to me, I just did one last year, and have them. Make sure you put sealant on the pinion splines so it does not leak there. If you are going to 3.42, make sure you can get a proper tone ring before you start, unless you are deleting the antilock brakes.

Where are you located?

 

OP

FWIW I had my stock 350 with a baby cam and mildly ported Aluminum LT1 heads dyno at 350hp/351tq at the wheels. The Cam was a custom grind from Comp
214/220 112 LSA
Lift: .531 Int, .513 EX
30 lb Ford SVO injectors
52mm TB (stock bored)
Edelbrock shorty headers
3:42
2200 stall
Tune: Mail order by Ed Wright

IMHO you need ported heads also

Lloyd can set you up with a perfect H/C combo

IMHO 3k stall is a bit much for this kind of build. 2400 in my opinion would be better

3:73 gears...will get you off he line quicker. Not terrific on Hwy so I opted for the 3:42's. Your current 2.5's will be murder on any build you do so absolutely go with more gear

The note on AI (Advanced Induction)...well they make power and are exspensive...and I believe AI does not even do LT1 anything now. Just LSx snobs now

Lloyd is the guy to see on H/C combo

oh NEVER run Comp Bee hive springs. Lloyd won't even sell or use them. Get the Lunati LT1 spring kit for whatever cam you get

However if you want a 2 piece spring mod...run the bee hives.

 

My recommendation:

1. 218/224 .570/.565 111 LSA, 1500-6000 RPM Great low and mid range power with very mild idle and will easily pass emissions. Comparable to Crane 227 cam and GM 845 cam. If you don't need emissions ask LE if a 110LSA would be better.
2. OEM GM aluminum heads are past their prime and starting to be a challenge to find a good set. You would be better off buying new castings. LE may have a complete set of heads for sale. Again, check with him. But I vote with sticking with your stock heads for your needs - Get a proper valve job on the iron heads. Add screw in rocker arm studs. Clean up the compression chambers. Polish & gasket match the exhaust ports. Add valve springs: ELECTRO POLISHED PROFORMANCE SINGLE WITH DAMPER 1.265 VALVE SPRING SET; HOWARDS CAMS 98215 (LE recommended valve spring kit)
3. 1.6 roller rockers
4. YANK SS 3200 or 3600 TC - The Yank SS TC is one of the best street & strip TC for our boats.
5. Built trans with shift kit and Corvette Servo and HD external trans cooler. Do not cheap out on your trans and protect it from heat!
6. 373 or 410 rear gears with new POSI - do not be afraid of MOAR gear!!!
7. TriY headers with a 2.5" CB - do not cheap out on your headers! Fit, finish and performance matter! Email Dan at Clear Image Automotive - dan.ferraro@clearimageautomotive.com
8. Tune!
9. Don't worry about the TB and intake. No need for your setup. Save the money towards a properly built trans and headers.

Your fat pig will be a blast to drive and surprise many people.

 

5. Built trans with shift kit and Corvette Servo

All LT1 4L60E's have the "Corvette" servo, so don't let a shop tax you for this.

Definitely specify an upgraded sun shell, though.

 

They didn't come with a billet servo
They did however come with the same cast servo the Corvette used.
The stock LT1 B body already had the same production part that is known as the "Corvette Servo"
Aftermarket billet , different discussion

 

Thanks. I'm no Sherlock but that is what I understood and meant in my post. I mean after 26 plus years of people getting high HP/TQ built 4L60E's it's basic knowledge when you get a built 4L60E you go with a billet Vette servo. I have with mine. Which by the way, both still going strong. Thank you Shane Cobb!

 

My understanding , wrong or right, the Billlet servos added area and more apply force over the production cast " vette" servo that the LT1 B car already has.
Are you saying there is a billet servo that is the same dimension as the production part?
My built 4l60E is still running around 15 years later in a boosted Impala . Thank you ME

 

My understanding , wrong or right, the Billlet servos added area and more apply force over the production cast " vette" servo that the LT1 B car already has.
Are you saying there is a billet servo that is the same dimension as the production part?
My built 4l60E is still running around 15 years later in a boosted Impala . Thank you ME

No right or wrong my man. All good. Just suggesting that the OP put his money into a built trans. Unfortunately for me, I left the word "billet" out of my post. Apologize to all for the confusion.

 

looking forward to a thread about your build man. Take lots of pictures.

 

Wouldn't those be .047 off coil bind with the cc502 cam exhaust lobe ?

The Howards , by the spec, has .060 more to bind.

Never tested or used either just reading specs.

 

Wouldn't those be .047 off coil bind with the cc502 cam exhaust lobe ?

The Howards , by the spec, has .060 more to bind.

Never tested or used either just reading specs.

You're probably right. TBH, I only checked the lift before I posted the link.

I first learned about those springs from Nab, and I am running them with my hot cam, but I don't know their actual limitations.

 

IMHO, do what Lloyd said

 

Do what Lloyd said.

On porting - it's your car, your life. If you want max power, buy Lloyd's heads. If you want to try it yourself, do it yourself. I'm building my first motor right now. I'm learning a ton. It's taking forever. I might screw it up. But I always wanted to, and I'm having fun in the process.

 

I think you're wasting your time porting the stock iron heads. They're just too small to see real gains. BTDT. I'm real happy with the set of OEM aluminum heads I got from Advanced Induction. Lloyd Elliot has a great reputation and has for a long time. Pro tip: Let your head supplier pick your cam. He will do a better job than you will. BTDT also.

On your mods: If you drag race, a 3000 stall converter is one of the best mods you can do. If you're more interested in pulling away from someone on the highway, it's not as important, and the downside to a high stall converter is it will kill your city mileage. You will also need to rebuild your transmission to handle the converter and added power, so include that in your budget (see my avatar).

On the cam, like the converter you have to weigh what you're REALLY going to be doing with the car vs. how often you'll be at the drag strip. I've seen a couple of suggestions for Crane 227 and 845 cams or their clones, and I ran 13's with both of those cams and iron heads. At Cecil in December, I ran mid 12's.

I agree with others, headers are mandatory for the power level you're looking for.

 

I think you're wasting your time porting the stock iron heads. They're just too small to see real gains.

What?

Lloyd Elliott has made a career out of producing "real gains" with his port work. "Too small"?

The only advantage that the aluminum LT1 heads have over the iron LT1 heads is weight. The iron heads flow better in stock form, handle heat better, and are perfectly suitable for porting.

 

Do what Lloyd says, but buy a pair of spare heads (aluminium or iron, or, frak it, both), just in case.
Can't hurt to have spare heads these days.

Ladies & Gentlemen
Please Welcome Back
After a Decade of Radio Silence
One of The ISSF's OGs
The Crimson Nape'd Architect​

 

I think cast iron heads are underrated. I'd run them in a heartbeat. Especially with a good port and polish. Old school race guys run them at circle tracks every weekend.

The other replies have you on the right track. If budget allows, I'd go with a 383 stroker and then you can change your cam specs to keep it more streetable and still stay in your HP/TQ target. In fact, ever since I ran my first 383 stroker, I will never have a 350 rebuilt again into a 350. If it's going to a machine shop for a refresh, it's coming back a 383, the cost difference these days isn't much for what you get in return IMO. Lots of torque. And you don't need to spin it to 8000 RPM if you don't want to. I've run cams with more duration and less lift, less rumpy, and kept it very streetable with good vacuum (I can dig up and post the specs if you want). No need to crazy hydroboost setups or vacuum pumps.

Off the wall question... how did you fit 2011 PPV wheels on a wagon? The bolt pattern is not the same. Adapter?

 

I think the classes that run the iron heads have limitations on porting and other mods.

I agree with the rest of your post.

 

IMHO, the draw on iron LT1 heads is that they're basically free; if you're learning how to port, and you grind through the side of one, who cares, go get another one.

Although it took me FOREVER to sell a set of aluminum LT1 heads for $125 a couple of years ago. Short money for more material and lighter heads if you're going to port them.

Agreed on the 383. Skip White has 383 rotating assemblies balanced and ready to go for very reasonable money.

 

Compared to iron, aluminium is a far better heat conductor, so much so that iron heads are about extinct, and aluminium has become the dominant block material, not just for GM, but for every major gasoline engine manufacturer.

 

Aluminum RR, like aluminum heads are lighter. "Lighter" valve train components allow revs to be quicker. IMHO many RR fails, aluminum for instance, are due to either cheap RR (Scorpions) or poor valve train geometry set up's (especially when RR body makes contact with retainer)

 

The issue I never liked about aluminum heads is the expand/contract at different rates ,and amounts as iron. They just are not as "forgiving" as an all-iron motor when/if overheated. They tend to warp ,and are more prone to head gasket issues than iron head. Not to say they don't have advantages. Aluminum are cheaper to make ,and port as iron heads require a forge. They are lighter in weight ,but difference is much greater on the big block Chevy.

 

Iron or AL head....if either motor overheated to the point a head cracks or blew a head gasket...that is 100% operator error for not looking, monitoring the temp gauge or aptly named "idiot" light.

story often sounds like:

Wife: Honey the car is making funny sounds

Me: like what kind of sound

Wife: IDK...banging & clanking and it smells bad and there was all this steam coming out from front of car. I only had 2 more stops to do so just kept driving....

 

Thank you, BALLSS.
Limited to the use of mere 15psi relief valves
Would those NASCAR engines then be limited to 239°F / 115°C?

 

yep, water boils at a higher temp the greater the pressure. 16psi water boils at 252 F

 

following this for inspiration and ideas lol