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I changed my compressor and serviced the A/C the proper way as was stated earlier in the thread. The A/C blows icy now.

Something else to consider though is that I pulled the headliner out of my wagon a few days ago. The heat radiating off the roof is friggin brutal! Keep in mind that I'm 5' 2" and my head is nowhere near the roof, LOL. Before I put the headliner back in, I'm definitely installing some type of heat barrier. This HAS to provide some type of improvement/assistance for the HVAC system.
 

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When I did my interior, I applied "FrostKing" self adhesive foam backed aluminium "duct insulation" to the underside of the roof panel.

It made a big differance. Before, you could have fryed an egg on the metal (were it not for gravity). After it was warm, not HOT to the touch.
 

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bolt-on

Nobody mentioned the caddy rear airducts..

They will cool the rear 2 time faster, and will provide better flow to the interior venting.

Pick up from any caddy 94+, need the bottom dash vent from caddy too.

If the roadmaster had the electronic climate control, it's able to redirect air at many more place at the same time.
 

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Nobody mentioned the caddy rear airducts..

They will cool the rear 2 time faster, and will provide better flow to the interior venting.

Pick up from any caddy 94+, need the bottom dash vent from caddy too.

If the roadmaster had the electronic climate control, it's able to redirect air at many more place at the same time.
Actually, you can go back to '93. I just got a set from a '93, and installed them in our B4U. Nice addition, especially with the little one in the back seat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Everything CRASHED

Just as I was gathering everyones advice.
Then AC stopped working.
It almost disentigrated..
The Balancer ripped out and caused a huge vibration.

Limped to King Pontiac got all new parts
Then dropped off to a mechanic.

Spent $566 to get a whole new GM System.
Went to King Pontiac and got new parts.
Plus a new Tensioner and Belt
$430 plus $126 labor.

I have cold air now..
 

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Good for you Mr. Big Wallet!

I got mines fices today and it cost me 103$ so NOW! LoL!

I would have felt better about it if my starter had not decided to go out on me just before I left the shop tho! (dammit)

Cost me 180$ So much for that good ole feeling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Good for you Mr. Big Wallet!

I got mines fices today and it cost me 103$ so NOW! LoL!

I would have felt better about it if my starter had not decided to go out on me just before I left the shop tho! (dammit)

Cost me 180$ So much for that good ole feeling.
$108 that is great...

I wanted all new parts and Not a reconditioned AC.
The tensioner and new belt were part of the PM upgrade.
It wa a fair price and at the right time too.
Hot miserable days and do not have to use HIGH all the time.
Once cooled down can drop the Motor speed to a more quite postion.
 

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Many of these cars will slowly leak refrigerant over time given their age. If the AC doesn't blow real cold, you could try putting a can in. 1.75 lbs is the total system capacity so don't overdo it. If yours has completely leaked out, go ahead and replace the orifice tube and O-rings, then vacuum it down and refill it (or have a shop do it).

The other thing is to prevent the sun from heating the interior by having your windows tinted and using a shiny aluminum sunshade on the windshield when the car is parked. These two mods will make a HUGE difference.
 

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Actually, you can go back to '93. I just got a set from a '93, and installed them in our B4U. Nice addition, especially with the little one in the back seat.
Have any pics of this mod? I have little ones as well.
 

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+1 on the HF gauges. Best $30 I ever spent at HF.

Get the electric vac pump, even with the pneumatic one with a huge compressor cannot pull as deep a vacuum as the electric ones.

Past couple cars I've totally flushed the system, replaced drier and o-tube and charged to factory specs. AC works better in them then any other car I've had.
 

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Nope, not necessary IMHO. I just got done with my A/C system service. I installed a new compressor, receiver/dryer, orifice tube, sealing washers & O-rings all around. I added a few ounces of PAG-150 oil to the compressor's suction side, as well as a few ounces in the receiver/dryer.

I flushed the condensor and lines with acetone & compressed air, and buttoned the system up. Then installed a vacuum pump and drew a vacuum of 30" for 2 hours. I then turned off the pump, and made sure the system held the vacuum for another hour.

Per the manual, I installed 1Lb 12 Oz of freon on the low side. The pressures when I finished up were ~36 & 275. (80' & 60% humidity the other day when I did this)

With the fan on high, the temperature coming out of the RH center vent went down to 50'. I then drove the car about 10 minutes, and the temperature went down to 32'.

I did the same thing to my black 9C1 when I lived in Austin, and had the same results in 105' heat.

I'd suggest checking the system with a set of gauges, and compare to the readings to what is listed in the service manual (1 of 2) for the MAX pressures (Below).
Where did you get the receiver/dryer, orifice tube, sealing washers, PAG-150 & O-rings ?
Getting ready to put mine all back together.

Dennis

Saw you answers on page 2... duh... should have looked futher
 

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Where did you get the receiver/dryer, orifice tube, sealing washers, PAG-150 & O-rings ?
Getting ready to put mine all back together.
Not directed to me, but I'll bite.

ackits.com (aka Arizona Mobile Air) has been nothing but the best for me. They've also got some very helpful folks working there that will take the time to explain stuff to ya..
 

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Have any pics of this mod? I have little ones as well.
Maybe out there somewhere, but not much to see. Find all three pieces that make up the kit first (including the bottom dash vent from cady donor too as Ssnow mentions) and it will be clear what to do. I had my set stored 15 years for my SS until I just recently replaced the carpet. It's pretty easy after the console and seats are removed and carpet is pulled back. Thin molded ducts are formfit to skitter along the tranny hump each side under the console, with a tab at back that positions on waiting floorstud that was already there waiting. A 3" slit in the carpet at duct's end under both seats and voila.

BTW, dam fine info throughout this thread - all in English for the layman FTW too. :)
 

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Any air conditioner Improvement mods

Has anybody used Gary's fan wiring harness? Allows control of both fans independently through a switch. ( $95).

Once moving , and air going through the condenser, the air quality is cold. Wouldn't having the 2 fans on simultaneously possibly alleviate the warmer temp at idle and in traffic?

Has anybody jury-rigged the fans to opperate at the same time off the air conditioning switch?:confused:

I'm hoping to find a low cost alternative rather than going to a shop and spending biggo bucks to have it recharged.:mad:

Thanks
Maybe out there somewhere, but not much to see. Find all three pieces that make up the kit first (including the bottom dash vent from cady donor too as Ssnow mentions) and it will be clear what to do. I had my set stored 15 years for my SS until I just recently replaced the carpet. It's pretty easy after the console and seats are removed and carpet is pulled back. Thin molded ducts are formfit to skitter along the tranny hump each side under the console, with a tab at back that positions on waiting floorstud that was already there waiting. A 3" slit in the carpet at duct's end under both seats and voila.

BTW, dam fine info throughout this thread - all in English for the layman FTW too. :)
 

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Has anybody used Gary's fan wiring harness? Allows control of both fans independently through a switch. ( $95).

Once moving , and air going through the condenser, the air quality is cold. Wouldn't having the 2 fans on simultaneously possibly alleviate the warmer temp at idle and in traffic?

Has anybody jury-rigged the fans to opperate at the same time off the air conditioning switch?:confused:

I'm hoping to find a low cost alternative rather than going to a shop and spending biggo bucks to have it recharged.:mad:

Thanks

You can change the fan turn on/off points with AC in the PCM programming..
 

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Pusher fans on the front of the radiator setup instead of on the rear would push more air at low speeds. Caddy Cateras and Ford Tauruses have some nice fans from what I've heard.
 
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