If it splashed out while you were bleeding the brakes? Then,yes that's pretty typical. I generally set the cover on top of the master cylinder while bleeding brakes,and try pressing the pedal more slowly helps also.

 

Yes, it splashed out while I was bleeding the brakes. So I put the cover on master cylinder, bleed rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver wheels.
And still there is a large splash every time I press brake pedal (even if slow and gentle).

 

Sounds like you're doing them right. I'm going to say the splashing is common (in my experience) I use/recommend "one-man" bleeder screws. They are around $10/pr. They make it much easier.

 

Normal behavior. Gotta be sure to put the cap back on the reservior!

 

Thanks for your answers.
I will remeber "one-man" bleeder screws.
Usually I ask someone to press brake pedal and add fluid while I'm bleeding calipers and cylinders.

 

some shooting up of brake fluid is normal, until the piston seals are past the fill ports.
but if you have issues of the pedal not holding or spongy pedal then the mc piston seals are shot.

 

Well, I suspect that the mc is the same age as car.
I have already visited Rockauto and not sure what will be the best choice in case of mc replacement.

 

I still have my original master cylinder,and calipers. I wouldn't replace it unless it's gone bad.

 

Is your location accurate? If so, how long has the vehicle been there and what do they primarily use to clear the roads of snow? Salt?

Question geared toward vehicle age and how cars that experience similar climate conditions "mature". I'm initially of the opinion your vehicle condition may be comparable to a mid-western or north-eastern car in the US. These vehicles tend to be subject to lots of road salt and this salt corrodes and eats frame, body and conduit lines alike.

If the above sounds true, thoroughly check the hard, steel brake lines for corrosion.

Did you replace the soft, rubber lines connecting hard lines to calipers/wheel cylinders?

Place the cap back atop the reservoir when bleeding. The speed bleeders you'll want are (I believe. Double check this for the rear wheel cylinders...) m10x1.0 for the rear and m10x1.5 for the front. Clean the spilled brake fluid thoroughly. It's an excellent paint remover.

Additionally, run a half meter length of 3/8" (9.5-10mm) clear hose from the bleed nipple to an empty bottle. This allows you to more readily see if the fresh brake fluid has completely worked through the line and back to the WC/Cal.

Bleed again using above and once fresh fluid is seen on all 4 corners, test brake for firmness. Reply back.

 

According to VIN the car was assambled in September 1992, Carfax says it left the US in the middle of 1993. So I guess it was new, when it came to Russia.

Yes, they usually use mix of salt and sand.
You can check a few pictures if you want http://fotki.yandex.ru/users/lostvegas/album/312994/?
My car has corrosion on rear fenders, backseat floor. Frame is rusty, just a bit, no terriblecorrosion, so I think it's ok.

Had to change steel brake line on the driver side rear wheel, because I broke it. So I made a new one using the same fitings. And replaced rubber hose on the right front caliper, it was in really bad shape.
Basicly all the steel brake lines have corrosion.

Never heard before about speed bleeders, just googled it, if I get it right I can install them instead of regular bleeders. Seems convenient.

 

My car wasn't maintanced well by previous owners.
I'm not sure that rear breaks were in working condition. One of wheel cylinders just fell apart when I took it off.
This is why I'm searching for a new mc, it's like a plan B if mc piston seals are bad.

 

Very nice! good to see the car represented internationally.

May as well give you the full story on speed bleeders. I use them myself w/out issue. However, some have had issues w/ the one way valve leaking. If this is of any concern, use the speed bleeders to bleed and once satisfied, they can be removed and replaced w/ stock/standard bleeders. Put the speed bleeders in the tool box and they're ready for you next time the brakes require servicing.

Welcome, good luck and keep us posted.

 

Thanks!
I will check my local stores to see if they have speed bleeders.

I need to charge the battery (the car sits in garage since october) and after that I can test brake system.

If everything is fine next step will be replacing:
- generator with the new one
- smog pump with idler pulley
- power steering pump with remanufactured one
Belt Tensioner installation and of course new belt.
But I guess it will be another story )))

 

Thanks!
I will check my local stores to see if they have speed bleeders.

Hmmn. Doubtful, but possible. Probably an online item. Earlier, I quoted the rear wheel cylinders as being m10-1.0. This is incorrect. Rear wheel cylinder bleeders are m8-1.25. The fronts are m10-1.5.

- generator with the new one

If certain it requires replacement and a 105a, you may want to consider a 140a unit from a later 94-96 model. Belt diameter and pulley circumference are same. I believe the mounting is similar although some modification might be necessary. http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=331474&highlight=105+amp+alternator+140

- smog pump with idler pulley

There is a smog pump disable TSB here and many (outside of Kalifornia) delete and remove the system completely. Depending on how strictly your smog/emissions are, you may just want to delete it altogether. However, I'm not certain if this is applicable to 92-93 pumps. The disable TSB is for 94-96.

- power steering pump with remanufactured one

The OEM pump is more sound than the reman's. If it can at all be purged, cleaned and tested good, I'd rather stick w/ the original than roll the dice on a reman.

 

One of the most common is the RUSSELL brand.

 

Dorman also markets them along with a few other vendors. I needed them right away and AZ had the Dorman in stock and not the Russell brand.

I used them recently on the Fronts and they worked great. Nice not having someone be instucted over and over - "Brake - HOLD -Release, Brake - HOLD - Release.....".

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...crew/1995-Chevrolet-Impala-SS/_/N-j1fb5Z8knge?itemIdentifier=439086_305256_2826_

EDIT - OP - X2 on doing this with the lid on the resevoir and not off. I would do a gravity bleed first at all 4 calipers to flush out the fluid which can be done with the lid off. Making sure the level in the resevoir does not drop too low allowing air into the MC. Let the resevoir get as low as you feel comfortable and then use a lint free rag to wipe out the black crud from the inside of the resevoir.

Top off to the correct level once the fluid is clear and fresh, replace lid and then speed bleed each wheel starting at RR - LR - RF and LF. Another part to consider replacing if not already mentioned are the rubber flex hoses at each Caliper. They can get crud buit up over the years/miles that can prevent the calipers from releasing as they should and just plain safety hazard if too old.

 

I used them recently on the Fronts and they worked great. Nice not having someone be instucted over and over - "Brake - HOLD -Release, Brake - HOLD - Release.....".

Let the resevoir get as low as you feel comfortable and then use a lint free rag to wipe out the black crud from the inside of the resevoir.

They can get crud buit up over the years/miles that can prevent the calipers from releasing as they should and just plain safety hazard if too old.

This time i asked my mom to Brake - HOLD -Release while i was bleeding brakes.

When was ready to bleed the brakes, mc reservoir was absolutly empty so i had a chance to clean it.

I replaced only RF caliper hose. The rubber came off and i could see the inside fibers.

 

I had a proportioning valve fail, and the rear brakes were the only ones working. It was somewhat strange, and my braking distance was excessive. IIRC, there are no new proportioning valves available. I picked one from a junk yard car and it worked fine. They do not seem to fail frequently, but if they do, it can be hazardous. They are fairly cheap at the yards.

 

I'll keep it in my mind. But in my case all four wheels were stoping pretty bad.
We don't a lot of US cars on junk yards and on the road , at least in my town. So the only way is to buy on-line.

 

Yesterday wanted to take a short test drive and test the brake system.
Brake pedal easily goes all the way down and car has no brakes. No leaks detected, fluid level in reservoir is the same.

I'm going to bleed the brakes once again, maybe it will help.
And also searching for a new mc in case the one i have is faulty.

 

When you said the MC was empty, you most likely got air in it. Did you "bench bleed" the MC first? You need to do this if you got air in it.

Sure it may be time for a new MC but the stock replacements are no where near as good as the original. I still have my almost 20 yo MC on the car today with (knock on wood) no issues.

 

No, i didn't. Seems like it was a mistake.

I will try to disconnect the brake lines from mc and bleed it.
Hope i won't have to replace mc.

 

I've never done it before on the car, but think you can. Just pickup one of the cheap bench bleeder kits which is just a couple of adapters and some hose. If not sure how to do it, look it up on Youtube since I think there are videos on the process. If worst comes to worst, you can easily unbolt it from the booster and bleed in a vice.

Were it me, after bleeding the MC I would hook it up to the lines and gravitiy Bleed out all 4 corners and then pressure bleed all 4 going from RR to LR to RF and finishing at LR wheel. Pickup a couple of Qts of brake Fluid so you have enough and at least your system will have Fresh Clean fluid AND do not let the fluid in the resevoir get so low you let air in again or you NEED TO START OVER.

If you are SURE you've done it all the above correctly and still have no pressure, then I would be thinking a new MC. But again......Bleeding is critical to your brake system.

EDIT - OOPS, realized I had the last wheel wrong but most would see that. When bleeding you want to end at the wheel closest to the MC which is the LF and not the LR as I mistakingly said up top. What can I say....it was a typo :>) I will also add as fred mentions below, just take off the MC (only 2 bolts and lines are disconnected anyway) and Bleed it on a bench/Vice. If you've come this far yourself, it really is not difficult to bleed the MC, there are plenty of short vids on youtube showing the process.

 

No matter what, you have to have the MC on the bench to bleed it, or you will have air in it, and the brakes will not work correctly. If you can not do it correctly yourself, have a garage do it. I have been stymied by the bench bleeding procedure, and have allowed the only mechanic I trust to do the job. He was reasonable, and I found out that my proportioning valve was not working correctly. The proportioning valve is not easy to find, and it is expensive new. I managed to get one at the junk yard, and it worked just fine.

 

I have seen a few videos. EricTheCarGuy used only vice, screwdriver and bare hands to bleed mc
I will bleed in a vice and also check my local stores if they have brake bleeder kits (if it's not metric it could be hard to find).

I prefer to repair brake system by myself, because i had a negative experience before with my other car (which is my daily driver). Since then i'm a bit paranoid about it.
After bleeding mc I will check proportioning valve.
At least you don't have to pay for delivery over the ocean and wait for 10-15 days ))

 

Sorry, your user name had me thinking USA but now see your location. I'm guessing a lot of bad winters on the existing brake lines. Certainly do the rubber hoses up front. In the US they are pretty cheap at $11 or so each and usually in stock. Russia may be a different story....Good Luck

Based on your pic in your sig I'm guessing you have a Caprice. If its a Drum Brake in the rear, you will only have 3 hoses (2 up front and 1 back at Differential) and the remaining lines are metal. Disk brake Rear and you will have an additional 2 rubber lines for each Rear caliper. The drum rear has metal lines that go directly to each wheel Cylinder.

I believe this 3rd Flex hose at the pumpkin is the same on both Drum and Disk rears. If it looks suspect, I would replace that too. but be warned, this hose is not a fun job due to its location at the Frame/Body.

 

Brake lines have rust on them, so it's real luck that front left rubber hose came off without damaging pipe.
I usually buy car parts on Rockauto.com If I'm not mistaking I bought the hoses from them.

Yes, it's a 93 Caprice. The 3rd Flex hose doesn't look so scary after replacing dimmer switch, but I bet it can take a few hours.

 

I've had good success with rusted lines by cleaning then first. You want the nut to be able to spin on the metal line. Try using some fine sand paper to sand the line just behind the nut, getting as close to the backside of the nut as possible. Spray it down with something like PB Blaster and let that stuff soak in for a few days. Keep repeating the sanding soaking process once or twice a day and you should quickly see the silver metal line coming back.

Hopefully the nut will break free of the metal line. If not or you notice too much twisting (a little is normal til the bond breaks), try to tighten it a little first and then back it off. Keep working it back and forth knowing that it will get easier as you go. If you twist up your metal line too much, then you will need to make up some new lines.

Another option.....you already know your replacing the flex hose, so cut it off up near where it mounts to the frame bracket. Pull the retainer and remove the hose from the bracket. Now you should be able to hold the line nut and unscrew the remaining portion of the flex hose from the nut/metal line combo. Once the flex hose connector end has been removed from the metal line, you may have better success freeing up the nut from the metal line. You can just keep soaking and sanding the heck out of it.

You may also be able to hold the metal Lin and then with a small socket, try tapping on the face of the nut, sort of knocking it backwards onto the line. Basically anything you can do to get the nut freed up without damageing the metal line. You may also just be able to spin the new flex hose onto the metal nut and line and then mount the hose back to the bracket. Sometimes you need to get creative or be prepared to replace the metal line. Its a "no risk - no reward" option for you at this point, but you really ought to replace those flex hoses.

Good Luck.

 

Thanks for advice!
Usually for that kind of job I use small wire brush to mechanically remove rust and dirt, WD-40 as a penetrating oil and sand paper too.

A couple of weeks ago when I was replacing calipers and wheel cylinders I have already cleaned and oiled the connection of left front rubber hose and brake pipe nut. For some reason I didn't replace it. Maybe because it looks good, no cracks or other defects comparing to right. And i decided to leave it. But I guess you right and it's better to replace it.

Sometimes cleaning and oil don't help. After I twist and broke the rear brake pipe I had to use drill to get pipe out of the nut. It stuck really hard. First I removed flare (even after that pipe didn't want to come out) and then the rest of the pipe.

 

Some good news.
Today I bleed the mc and then wheels againg.
After that took a short test drive, it's fun to drive in winter on summer tires, you press throttle, rear wheels spinning, but car doesn't move.
Brake shoes need to be adjusted, but car now is able to stop and it's good.