[BALLSS]

this is the TSB for air pump disable
http://www.obdclearinghouse.com/documents/newdocuments/tsb/buick/01-06-04-011

it does not say in can/can't be 'removed", just says "disable"

BUT what the smog shops have to deal with not only by various state regulations but Federal with C.A.R.B.(california air resource board) being the most comprehensive in terms of do/don't.

notes from Federal (EPA):

WARNING: Federal law makes it illegal for ANYONE to tamper with, disconnect, remove or otherwise render inoperative ANY emissions-related control device. The Environmental Protection Agency and most states have actually been rather lax about enforcing this rule on motorists, but they haven't hesitated to nail professional service facilities that have been guilty of tampering. Even so, the fines can be hefty. A violation may make you liable for up to a $2,500 fine!

No Tampering

The federal anti-tampering law does not, however, apply to race cars that are not operated on the street, other full-time off-road vehicles, show cars that are not street driven, or vehicles not factory equipped with emission controls (most 1967 and earlier vehicles). So that exempts all antique cars, and most classic cars and muscle cars.

Revisions to the Clean Air Act in 1990 further broadened the definition of emissions tampering to include virtually ANY type of engine or exhaust system modification that alters what comes out the tailpipe. That means any nonstock aftermarket part that is installed on your engine must be EPA-approved and emissions legal (except on the exempt vehicles previously noted).

Before the law was revised in 1990, it was only illegal for professional mechanics to remove or disconnect emission control devices. There was nothing to prevent a motorist from tampering with their own vehicles. That loophole has since been plugged.

What Is Emissions-legal?

Any of the following may be considered emissions tampering and get you into trouble:
•Removing the EGR valve or plugging its vacuum lines
•Removing or disconnecting the PCV valve
•Removing the stock air cleaner and heat riser duct plumbing
•Removing the catalytic converter
•Removing or disconnecting the air pump
•Removing or modifying the stock distributor vacuum advance/retard
•Altering the stock ignition advance mechanism or timing curve
•Replacing the stock distributor with an aftermarket unit that is not emissions certified
•Modifying, removing or replacing the stock computer or PROM chip with a non-certified component
•Blocking the heat riser duct under the intake manifold
•Knocking out the filler restrictor on the fuel tank inlet pipe
•Replacing the stock non-vented gas cap with a vented cap
•Removing or disconnecting the fuel vapor recovery canister
•Changing the idle mixture or stock carburetor jetting
•Removing or modifying the carburetor choke
•Modifying or replacing the carburetor accelerator pump with non-certified components
•Installing an intake manifold or racing manifold that lacks provisions for the stock EGR valve and/or a heat riser duct
•Installing a carburetor that lacks the stock emission hookups
•Installing non-certified fuel injectors
•Installing a long duration "racing" cam that is not emissions-certified
•Installing exhaust headers that lack provisions for a heat riser valve, an air cleaner preheat stove or fittings for an oxygen sensor (if required)
•Installing valve covers with open breathers or no fittings for a PCV valve
•Installing any induction, fuel or ignition system component that is NOT emissions legal


soooo, depending on how a particular shop "intreprets" all of this is why some people get away with it and others don't.

Now that the STAR program is in place here in Calif., it is very much by the book as the fines to these shop owners is stiff and they face suspension of there smog certification ability so they don't want to F with modded cars

It sucks that you need a front liscense plate in Calif. (don't know about other states) and not having one is a absolute "invite" to get pulled over to see wtf other violations they can ding you for...it is all about the $ in fines they raise. Overly tinted windows, exhaust to loud, etc are easy picking for $ fines.

Like the one post where the guy was denied emission passing because the air pump was "removed", it is just buy the book now and the "hook me up for $300 using a donor car to pass" shops are scarce, especially now with STAR in Calif

if you live in a state where emission testing is lax or just 'tail pipe" than great.

 

[luckydriver]

I wonder if this fellow had the engine bay decal or a copy of the GM bulletin and still failed?

the bulletin and the guy called PADOT and asked them about it and they approved it. then hours later called back and said that guy that approved it was mistaken. if the car didnt need additional work i dont know how they would have unapproved the inspetion and ripped off my sticker from my garage

 

[Jbart618]

I'm bout to remove my pump. This is on my 95'. Now everything looks early 95' except the fitting which looks late 95'- 96'. So I guess get the 5/8 flare caps or do I have another option?? Also I don't need to reprogram the PCM right?? Not a 96, not a OBD2.

Sorry photo is upside down. iPad rotated it for some reason.

 

[Jbart618]

Well never mind. Finished mine in a lil over an hour. Pretty easy except the silver tube that runs under the motor. Cut it in half like in the video. My car had the newer fitting. Since the car only has 74k miles on it, the whole fitting came out very easy. I used 2 hydraulic plugs I had laying around. Perfect fit with a washer. I ran the car and no code came up. Thanks to this thread, it made this project super easy. Thanks to everyone who contributed their knowledge on this.

 

[bigbodyss]

ledsled has it right. just unplug it and tie the connector outta the way. when you remove the piping they will be tack welded or rivited or something to the bracket for the alternator (ithink) just wiggle and it will pop off. what i did was take the driverside and bend the pipe back and forth until it snapped in half under the front of the engine, (cause i couldnt get it ALL out in one peice)pulled out the driver side, then worked the passenger side out. but BE CAREFULL!!! not to cut or pinch and damage the passenger plug wires that run under the alt. mines a 95 so no need to reprogram the pcm. leave the fuse in cause it runs the hood light also

its easy

Nice thanks I have a 95 and have been asking if I have to reprogram the ecu now I know I dont do you know if it will cause you to fail smog?

 

[EagleMark]

The PCM should be flashed so Air Pump Enable temp makes it not come on and the DTC for air pump is disabled.

The PCM does not enter closed loop when AIR is on... don't remember if AIR comes on WOT on the LT1?

 

[Jimpala95]

I did the air pump delete on my 96 Caprice L-T1 with later style manifolds. I removed the exhaust manifold fitting and found the threads to be a 3/4x16 with 1/2inch o.d.with a straight thread(non-tapered). For a reference guide on thread size,the older GM large spark plugs have the same thread(R43,44,etc..)I found an excellent direct replacement plug at Fastenal.com online.For the plug to manifold gasket,I used a standard copper 3/4inch oil drain plug.I also had the AIR TSB PCM reprogram performed at my local Chevy dealer.
Here's the link to the plug:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...-131280&ucst=t
Couple pics below. Jim

 

[Jimpala95]

Sorry here's the Fastenal link for the plugs I used..

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products?term=420172-131280&searchMode=

 

[Jick-Jack Jake]

I have a 96RMW & read the whole thread. Would it throw a code if the pump was still wired up? It would buy me time to get a tune after inspection.

 

[Han Solo]

Can I just pull the relay till I actually physically remove the Air Pump.

 

[motorcitykid]

The A.I.R Pump disable process is listed here in the tech section of forum at this link:
http://www.impalassforum.com/tech/engine/air_pump/air_pump.htm

Below are pics of the AIR pump deleted, and the Oil drain plug I used to cap off the exhaust
manifolds plug for my 1995 LT1. The 94 and Early 95's are the same size, The later 95's and 96 Models
are different and use a 5/8" Flare Cap nut to plug the manifolds. These can be found at Lowes or
Home depot. Determine which manifold type you have Here (Husskers pics)
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=229732&page=2

The 96 model AIR Pump delete also requires a reprogram (OBD-II) Also, DONT use the
paper gasket that comes with the drain plug on the exhaust! Go to your local hardware store
and get a "Thin" copper or metal gasket for the setup (Pic). I Highly suggest that when your
preparing to do this removal project, lightly wire brush off the threads of the AIR Pump tubes that
go into the manifolds, Get the manifolds "Warm" (Not blistering HOT), then spray down the
threads/AIR Tube connector with PB-Blaster and let it set for an Hr, repeat the Heat/PB Blaster 1 more time.
Make sure you have the Correct size wrench for this Job!!! It is recommended that you
Use a " 6-Point Line" wrench for this Job! You may only get 1 decent shot at getting the rusted
tube fittings loose and you dont want to strip the heads in the process. Go easy and they will
come loose and out. Tighten the manifold plugs down decent but DONT over-tighten them!

6-Point Line Wrenches

AIR Pump deleted and exhaust manifolds capped

1994 and Early 95 Model AIR Pump/Exhaust manifold fitting

Description: Oil drain plug, used to cap off early model 94-95 exhaust manifolds.

Dorman Motormite 65223 Oil & Lube, Oil Drain Plugs

Dorman Motormite 65223 Oil & Lube, Oil Drain Plugs Features:
• Oil Drain Plugs
• Type: Standard
• Thread Size: M22-1.50
• Under-Head Length: 17mm
• Head Size: 19mm
• Head Style: Flanged Hex
• Brand: Dorman - AutoGrade - Oil-Tite!

Dorman has part #090-055 that is a three pack of the same M22-1.50 oil drain plug. I bought mine from Oreilly's for $4.29. This is for 94 and early 95's

 

[kstuart]

exhaust manifold plug off

I'm putting BBK shorty's on mine they told me at BBK that was a 7/8-16 thread does anyone know wherre a plug of this size can be obtained preferably ss or chrome
Thanks

 

[CHILNLO]

Just did mine. I have a '96 and took it down to the header so I used Dorman part 65226 instead of the brass flare caps.

sent from the Sith Infiltrator

 

[Jimpala95]

Yes looks good Sith Infiltrator, it's a cleaner look than the caps imo.Good find on the Dorman #65226.
Fastenal also makes a 3/4"-16 straight thread plug it's what I used on my '96.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products?term=420172-131280&searchMode=

The old AC Delco spark plugs(R43 R44,etc...are same thread....make for a different look

Jim

Just did mine. I have a '96 and took it down to the header so I used Dorman part 65226 instead of the brass flare caps

sent from the Sith Infiltrator

 

[kstuart]

Thanks
I used 1955 t-bird oil drain plugs they worked great

 

[Impala77]

Ijust finished the removal of the air pump on my wife's '95 LT1. I used the mid '80's Volvo oil pan plugs in my late '95 manifolds. I took out both the fittings because they were easy to remove. The threads are 3/4 x 16 I used pbblaster for a cuple of months before takinf it apartand they came right out. I have no CEL and the car runs great and looks better when the hood is up. The hardest part was getting the passenger side air tube out. It's tight on that side.

 

[CHILNLO]

Ijust finished the removal of the air pump on my wife's '95 LT1. I used the mid '80's Volvo oil pan plugs in my late '95 manifolds. I took out both the fittings because they were easy to remove. The threads are 3/4 x 16 I used pbblaster for a cuple of months before takinf it apartand they came right out. I have no CEL and the car runs great and looks better when the hood is up. The hardest part was getting the passenger side air tube out. It's tight on that side.

Yeah it was tight. So tight I just cut it to pieces

sent from the Sith Infiltrator

 

[BALLSS]

Just did mine. I have a '96 and took it down to the header so I used Dorman part 65226 instead of the brass flare caps.

sent from the Sith Infiltrator

Chill..

did you "remove" your air pump?

and if so have you passed smog test without it?

 

[CHILNLO]

Chill..

did you "remove" your air pump?

and if so have you passed smog test without it?

I didn't remove the pump at the time but a couple days ago I change out the water pump and had to get the air pump out and just kept it out lol.
I never pass for some reason so I get it passed

 

[BALLSS]

.
I never pass for some reason so I get it passed

well if you use "alternate" testing....than nothing matters

Curious if anyone in Calif who has a 96 and gets hit with the "STAR" test only...if they have "removed" the air pump and pass smog.

Only comment I get from the tech at the shop is "no emission equipment can be removed..." but given GM put TSB out saying the air pump "is no longer required for emission compliance"...

guess the magic word on the TSB is "disable" vs "remove"