Try this company, there a little steep in price but I believe they are made here in the USA 🇺🇸, all Autozone, and Oreilly’s crap are all made in China.

Saginaw N Power Steering Pump For 1994-1996 Chevy Impala SS

High performance (OEM replacement) reverse rotation N Pump for 1994-1996 Impalas, OEM fittings. Fluid Recommendation It is HIGHLY recommended that you use our specialty-formulated Lee Power Steering Fluid. AC Delco or Valvoline nonsynthetic power steering fluid will work as a second choice, but...

leepowersteering.com

 

Thank you very much.

Do they make Fleetwood pumps or Impala only?

Fleetwood power steering lines won't fit into the Caprice pump, will it?

 

Vision OE is the name brand of the installed pump (Fleetwood)

 

A inline cooler with a fan on top can help .

 

Thoughts of top of head,

What fluid are they using, if ATF or some off brand ps fluid , not the best choices. Guys have had good success with synthetic steering fluid.
My go to is still conventional GM PS fluid.

Are they flushing system till clean.
( cranking wheel lock to lock while flushing helps)

Does the shop have the tools to do proper pressure AND flow checks ?
This to make sure the momentary boost loss you seem to be having is pump, not box.
High box internal leakage from seals or wear can cause stalling of PS.
Typically, but not always worst cold.
"Morning sickness" as it is known.

Vacuum bleed ? Has been helpful personally with trapped air, and resulting foaming-whining.

With all your issues, I would personally have a magnetic filter on your return.
Example

https://magnefinefilters.com/NEW-Magnefine-3-8-Magnetic-Inline-Power-Steering-Filter-R038M-P-3810000.htm

Not saying the above is your issue , more possibilities.
Good luck

 

Something is wrong with your system. Power Steering pumps are very simple inside. The behavior you mention sounds like the high pressure line is constricted.

Having both a roadmaster and an Impala at my house right now, the line in the back is ninety degrees different between the variable assist and non-variable-assist, so a "slight bend" is like saying I "slightly totaled" my car. How do you know the line is flowing properly? Did you measure it or did the shop measure it?

I'd say replace that line with a proper one FIRST. Then go from there.

 

Something is wrong with your system. Power Steering pumps are very simple inside. The behavior you mention sounds like the high pressure line is constricted.

Having both a roadmaster and an Impala at my house right now, the line in the back is ninety degrees different between the variable assist and non-variable-assist, so a "slight bend" is like saying I "slightly totaled" my car. How do you know the line is flowing properly? Did you measure it or did the shop measure it?

I'd say replace that line with a proper one FIRST. Then go from there.

Sherlock, I wanted to touch base again on this. Isn't it the case that many classic car owners make custom power steering lines and bend them in all sorts of crazy fashions with no ills effects?

So the bend itself isn't necessarily the issue, it's that the shop that bent it, probably caused a restriction within the line (that's not visible to the outside).


Based on what you're saying, there is 0% chance we have a gearbox issue. The pumps that have been installed have all been garbage (in my opinion) and the line probably doesn't help. The system is a very simple one. I've been told the tensioner is working correctly and the serpentine belt is brand new.

So based on that, it's almost guaranteed it's the line somehow.... Correct?


Thanks for humoring me!!

The BMR rear looks different than yours because it's more badass.

They make two different front sway bars for our cars, and you can use either one. The technical difference between them isn't relevant in your situation, so just pick the one you think looks cooler. The links you posted are the correct parts.

The BMR bars do come with the bushings and mounting hardware.

Haha well you're sure it'll fit? Badass is good

 

Betting line has a kink ,and/or restricted in some way.

 

Pumps are identical. Literally the only thing different is the variable pressure regulator, which can be removed separately from the pump. You may need the rear nut, but it's common to millions of GM and other vehicles.

More info on pumps here:
(3) Sherlock9c1 finally gets an Impala | Page 5 | Chevy Impala SS Forum

Yes, install a "w/o NV7 variable assist" pressure line and you'll be fine.

I continue to assert that the end fittings are 90 degrees different, and there's not much room. No "gentle bend" here. I'd put money on that bend being your problem.

 

Pumps are identical. Literally the only thing different is the variable pressure regulator, which can be removed separately from the pump. You may need the rear nut, but it's common to millions of GM and other vehicles.

More info on pumps here:
(3) Sherlock9c1 finally gets an Impala | Page 5 | Chevy Impala SS Forum

Yes, install a "w/o NV7 variable assist" pressure line and you'll be fine.

I continue to assert that the end fittings are 90 degrees different, and there's not much room. No "gentle bend" here. I'd put money on that bend being your problem.

You are the man.

Trying to get ahold of Lee Power Steering and speak with them. So just changing the pressure line and we're good? Low pressure can stay the same?


Does the filter @95wagon described above just simply slip into the low pressure line feeding into the tank?



I'm running on trust here (of all of your collective knowledge).... Going to have the shop install a new high pressure line and then the Lee pump and I should be off to the races.




PS: With the Lee pump, they can tune the feel of it to my liking, I presume?

 

Yes, changing the pressure line is the first step. After that, you'd be looking at replacing the steering box.

Pumps are fixed displacement. Borgeson makes a kit that allows you to lower the max pressure, but it does so by activating the pump bypass sooner, not by reducing the pump volume.

The tuning is done in the steering box. There are different shafts that vary how much boost is added to user input.

 

Just spoke to the shop. They want to put the pump they have (new pump, most likely remanufactured) in the car and then see what happens. It's not going to cost me a dime, so I guess I'll go that route to start with.


@sherlock9c1 If what you're saying is true (I think it is), I'll be back there again soon to have them put the new line and Lee pump in to fix this once and for all.


FOR THE FUTURE: That said, will an Impala/Caprice line work with the Fleetwood box? So I'll have one low pressure Fleetwood line, one high pressure Impala line, and an Impala pump. If I so desire, I can have the box changed to a Lee rebuilt with no issues. Is this correct?

In other words, besides the pump connection location, all the rest of the parts are like Legos and will fit 1:1?

 

That said, will an Impala/Caprice line work with the Fleetwood box? So I'll have one low pressure Fleetwood line, one high pressure Impala line, and an Impala pump. If I so desire, I can have the box changed to a Lee rebuilt with no issues. Is this correct?

In other words, besides the pump connection location, all the rest of the parts are like Legos and will fit 1:1?

There is no such thing as a "Fleetwood line" or an "Impala pump".

The 94-96 LT1 cars came with 2 different setups. One of them had a thing sticking off the back of the pump, and the other did not. "Style A" and "Style B". Your pressure line and pump need to be the same style. The make and model are not part of the equation.

 

Recommended reading:

Did some Impalas come with a 3.0 turn power steering box...

I picked up a used power steering box. The seller is positive that it came from a '96 SS but after installing it in my '94 wagon, it is 3.0 turns lock to lock. It feels like a "moderate" ratio--somewhere in between 12.7:1 and 16:1, and while it is higher effort than the stock box from my...

www.impalassforum.com

Steering gear box recommendations

Been reading a few threads here in regards to SGB replacements. What's the consensus on a "good" replacement for the Impala. Also can replacing the stock steering shaft with the Jeep style solve some loose issues? The stock parts have close to 230K miles on it.

www.impalassforum.com

'96 Impala Steering Box

I am replacing the steering gear box on my dad's '96 SS. I see that there are several varieties of this box available through vendors like Rockauto or Amazon...mostly the Cardone brand, I think. But, there are different part numbers, so I am guessing there are subtle variations within the...

www.impalassforum.com

Steering Gear Ratios

I want my wifes 96 Wagon to have the steering response of my 96 Impala. I know the steering boxes have different part numbers and RPO codes, but does anyone actually know what the lock to lock ratios are? Ive looked in the FSM and did a search. Thanks,

www.impalassforum.com

Which PS box?

Finished the PS lines yesterday. What a pain. I was a bit disappointed with the Gates hoses I bought. The hard sections of the lines were poorly bent. I had to reshape every end to get them to thread in. I was also disappointed with the O-rings. They were poorly sized and kept falling off...

www.impalassforum.com

 

I don't see how any of the steering linkage ,and/or geometry has changed to warrant an alignment.. Unless it already needed one.

 

Any downsides with light steering on the highway on a car that's not tightly sprung?

My springs are FE2 (tow package) so they're a bit stiffer than the FE1, soft spring.


Wish there was a way to make the suspension squishier over bumps yet still handle well.... Impossible?

 

The springs wouldn't affect my choice of steering box.

When I first got my 95 Fleetwood, it had Bilsteins in the front and factory air shocks in the rear. I never got to drive it with that setup, but I think the previous owner was going for exactly what you're talking about. Float like a Caddy over bumps, AND corner tight.

If that's the goal, I would say this:

You want the car to be nice and tight and responsive up front, where steering occurs. There are obviously many options as far as springs and shocks. The better the better. In the rear, you want some variety of air suspension.

Definitely go big on front and rear sway bars, since they will improve cornering without affecting softness over bumps.

Not impossible.

 

Thanks, will look into it!


The sway bars don't affect ride quality, just keep body roll down and better handling?

They have this crazy thing for the rear which I think looks different than mine??? Any ideas?

1996 CHEVROLET IMPALA BMR Suspension XSB003R BMR Xtreme Anti-Roll Bars | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - BMR Xtreme Anti-Roll Bars with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Sway Bars at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

And then they have fronts as well Not sure the difference:

1996 CHEVROLET IMPALA BMR Suspension SB006R BMR Sway Bars | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - BMR Sway Bars with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Sway Bars at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

1996 CHEVROLET IMPALA BMR Suspension SB008R BMR Sway Bars | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - BMR Sway Bars with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Sway Bars at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Do they come with the correct bolts and mounting hardware? Doesn't list this on the page.

 

Thanks, will look into it!


The sway bars don't affect ride quality, just keep body roll down and better handling?

They have this crazy thing for the rear which I think looks different than mine??? Any ideas?

1996 CHEVROLET IMPALA BMR Suspension XSB003R BMR Xtreme Anti-Roll Bars | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - BMR Xtreme Anti-Roll Bars with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Sway Bars at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

And then they have fronts as well Not sure the difference:

1996 CHEVROLET IMPALA BMR Suspension SB006R BMR Sway Bars | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - BMR Sway Bars with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Sway Bars at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

1996 CHEVROLET IMPALA BMR Suspension SB008R BMR Sway Bars | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - BMR Sway Bars with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Sway Bars at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Do they come with the correct bolts and mounting hardware? Doesn't list this on the page.

The BMR rear looks different than yours because it's more badass.

They make two different front sway bars for our cars, and you can use either one. The technical difference between them isn't relevant in your situation, so just pick the one you think looks cooler. The links you posted are the correct parts.

The BMR bars do come with the bushings and mounting hardware.

 

Starting to assemble bits for the power steering install....

Pressure Line: More Information for GATES 367690

Return Line: More Information for GATES 360940 - without cooler

More Information for GATES 370560 - with cooler


So are these all the parts I need? Just the hoses and the new pump? Which low pressure line will I need? Don't think I have a cooler, so I would get the first one, correct?

I am also going to get that filter that @95wagon recommended....


Thank you!

 

So are these all the parts I need?

Not sure about the D body but there is a pressure switch port on the high pressure line. It is for increasing idle when the power steering pump needs more RPM.

More Information for ACDELCO 212493

If the Fleetwood has the switch somewhere else plug it. The Roadmaster variable steering system does not show this switch so I think all LT1 PCMs handle the power steering high idle request switch .If your car does not have this switch working it will be harder to turn the wheel when you are not rolling.

Don't think I have a cooler, so I would get the first one, correct?

The "cooler" is just the extra steel line. You have to decide if a Caprice specific part will fit. The Gates 360940 (non cooler return) is listed for all B&D bodies.

 

Gents,
first post long story...

So, what I heard you say in your first post is:

1. Shop removed the electronic control solenoid from rear of power steering pump.
2. Shop modified the existing line to fit a regular outlet.
3. Symptoms:
   1. Pumps whining
   2. Car bogs at low speed.
   3. Steering is very difficult in parking lots
   4. Car will sometimes bog at start up when goosing the throttle and turning the wheel as you leave a driveway or parking spot
4. Multiple power steering pumps have been tried, same symptoms.

I suggested that it's highly likely that the "modified line" is causing a flow restriction. Since a new (and correct) line is cheap and not terrible to replace, I'd replace that first. I did not give a next step after that.

Sherlock, I wanted to touch base again on this. Isn't it the case that many classic car owners make custom power steering lines and bend them in all sorts of crazy fashions with no ills effects?

So the bend itself isn't necessarily the issue, it's that the shop that bent it, probably caused a restriction within the line (that's not visible to the outside).

Based on what you're saying, there is 0% chance we have a gearbox issue. The pumps that have been installed have all been garbage (in my opinion) and the line probably doesn't help. The system is a very simple one. I've been told the tensioner is working correctly and the serpentine belt is brand new.

So based on that, it's almost guaranteed it's the line somehow.... Correct?

Yes, it is the case that custom hydraulic lines can be made. Every time there is a bend, there the potential for a kink. There is right and a wrong way to bend hydraulic line; at this point pipe bending is well understood.

It is very possible that the additional bend added by the shop caused a restriction. 95wagon asked you to flow-test the line; I suggested that you should replace the line because it was cheap and relatively quick, therefore a good first step. Have you done either of those steps yet?

By suggesting the line first, I was starting with the cheapest / easiest / most obvious potential cause. The next cause would be the steering box itself. The steering box is both more expensive to replace, and more complex than a power steering pump with more variable quality among rebuilders. But since you hadn't yet replaced the line, I hadn't yet recommended a next step.

I also refuse to believe you have had four bad power steering pumps in a row. I personally have rebuilt 6 power steering pumps. 5 of the 6 worked perfectly; only one would not build pressure and I never did figure out why. A parts store rebuild pump was later installed to replace it and it worked instantly. Again, they are a simple part.

 

So, what I heard you say in your first post is:

1. Shop removed the electronic control solenoid from rear of power steering pump.
2. Shop modified the existing line to fit a regular outlet.
3. Symptoms:
   1. Pumps whining
   2. Car bogs at low speed.
   3. Steering is very difficult in parking lots
   4. Car will sometimes bog at start up when goosing the throttle and turning the wheel as you leave a driveway or parking spot
4. Multiple power steering pumps have been tried, same symptoms.

I suggested that it's highly likely that the "modified line" is causing a flow restriction. Since a new (and correct) line is cheap and not terrible to replace, I'd replace that first. I did not give a next step after that.


Yes, it is the case that custom hydraulic lines can be made. Every time there is a bend, there the potential for a kink. There is right and a wrong way to bend hydraulic line; at this point pipe bending is well understood.

It is very possible that the additional bend added by the shop caused a restriction. 95wagon asked you to flow-test the line; I suggested that you should replace the line because it was cheap and relatively quick, therefore a good first step. Have you done either of those steps yet?

By suggesting the line first, I was starting with the cheapest / easiest / most obvious potential cause. The next cause would be the steering box itself. The steering box is both more expensive to replace, and more complex than a power steering pump with more variable quality among rebuilders. But since you hadn't yet replaced the line, I hadn't yet recommended a next step.

I also refuse to believe you have had four bad power steering pumps in a row. I personally have rebuilt 6 power steering pumps. 5 of the 6 worked perfectly; only one would not build pressure and I never did figure out why. A parts store rebuild pump was later installed to replace it and it worked instantly. Again, they are a simple part.

Thanks for the long and good reply.


I don't mean to make this long in the tooth just trying to make my mark and strike and do it all at once.

1-4 are all correct, yes!

The problem is that since the electric solenoid has been removed, the OEM line no longer works in the OEM pump (minus the EVO). So the Caprice/Impala line will probably not work, either since the Fleetwood and Caprice have different locations for hookups. I can't just replace the Fleetwood line since I no longer have the EVO. I am stuck in this middle ground.


*At this point, my only way out (I see) is to replace the high and low pressure lines with Caprice ones and install a Caprice/Impala pump. That way we know that all the lines and fittings and pump are 100% OEM. Anything other than that is a half measure. * Am I wrong here?

I have not flow tested the line as the one shop that was supposed to do it failed to do so among other emergency repairs (leaking coolant hose).



I spoke to Lee Power steering about the gearbox and they think there is VERY little chance the gearbox is the problem. They agree with what you're saying about either the pump or the line.

 

Looks like it is.

 

You had one of these , right ?

 

You removed it and put in one of these , right ?

 

You removed it and put in one of these , right ?
View attachment 200047

I agree with you 100% on the pressure test! None of the shops I have taken it to have pressure tested it, included the one that's warrantied my pump. Their assertion is that it's a new pump, so pressure through it should be fine. Hypothetically, yes but as we know most likely the line is causing us issues which would show up in a pressure test.

The shop did the original work, but yes the EVO is gone.


I go back to my original question: I can't just fit the Caprice hose into the Fleetwood pump, can I? The lines won't line up perfectly since they weren't made to be mated.


The only way to do what you're proposing is to install a Caprice line and a Caprice pump, correct?

I can't just go put a Caprice line with an Impala pump since they don't line up properly?

 

You bent the original hose to fit, right ?

 

Buy a pressure hose by application for a Caprice or Impala for the same year ( yeah I know its not a model deal but Caprice -Impala never had the option so it is,easier to get correct hose by that application )

That will remove the question whether or not the modification of your original line is a contributing factor.
I still stand by my original post , that your shop needs to do PROPER PS system flow and pressure checks.

 

An impala is a caprice

I was trying to simplify this for you but it just got worse.

Buicks can be had with or without the variable assist so referencing doesnt help.

Caprice- Impala NEVER had variable assist .

So , if you ask for pressure hose to fit a Caprice , or Impala ( same thing) you will be getting a hose that fits the pump without the solenoid in place.
Physically, fitting the 94-96 ( the whole car line ) the pump casting is the same.

Same as all the boxes from a hydraulic fitting respective.

The pump, if you have the short, non solenoid, nut,
( I'm not going to refer to it by name because you will just get confused more)

the caprice- impala pressure hose will screw into it.

 

An impala is a caprice

I was trying to simplify this for you but it just got worse.

Buicks can be had with or without the variable assist so referencing doesnt help.

Caprice- Impala NEVER had variable assist .

So , if you ask for pressure hose to fit a Caprice , or Impala ( same thing) you will be getting a hose that fits the pump without the solenoid in place.
Physically, fitting the 94-96 ( the whole car line ) the pump casting is the same.

Same as all the boxes from a hydraulic fitting respective.

The pump, if you have the short, non solenoid, nut,
( I'm not going to refer to it by name because you will just get confused more)

the caprice- impala pressure hose will screw into it.

Thanks for sticking with me; I'm sorry I am so slow.

I'm with you on the differences between the vehicles.


I'm not sure if the shop installed that plug like you've shown above. I assume they did, which is what required them to put that bend in the OEM line in the first place.


So you're saying if that plug has been installed, then the Caprice line will fit right on there and I'm off to the races. No reason to install a Caprice pump then...

This is a pressure hose for the non variable assist , caprice- impala.
View attachment 200055 View attachment 200056

Interesting it still has the pressure sender on the line....

The linked article above shows their new line and they took it off... personal preference?

 

This is a pressure hose for the non variable assist , caprice- impala.

 

Testing ,
It is not just pressure
It is pressure at a certain flow.
It is max pressure with line blocked
It is max pressure with spool valve on stops
It is left right pressure difference vs steering input load.
And on and on .

Anyone can bolt the parts on,,
Someone diagnosing your car should have tools and a clue.

And after all this , it will turn out to be either your belt tensioner or outer ring on your damper slipping 🙄

 

Read over this thread carefully.

The switch in the line that is closer to the box,
(You can also see it in the photo of my hose I took 10 minutes ago)
has nothing to do with the variable power steering system and the solenoid the shop removed from your car.
If yours is there and solid, sure move it to the new hose.
If yours leaks , then don't bother.
If you make a habit of cranking the wheel standing still ,in gear ,dead idle, AC on then you might need it.

 

@95wagon I FINALLY SEE IT:


Cadillac pump:

Caprice Pump:

With the EVO removed and the straight adapter in there it's the same pump🤬

Caddy:

Caprice:

That little doo-dad will control idle. No real habit doing that... Don't think mine is leaking but I can have a looksie and see.

I understand what you're saying now.


Thanks for sticking with me on this. Difficult and I'm a bit slow over online since I didn't actually do the work myself on this job.


The low pressure line is 1:1 the same thing across all B/D body cars regardless of variable assist, then? Caprice=Impala=Fleetwood?

 

There you go,
If you unscrewed that 1" hex on the chev pump and removed it, "poof" that pump essentially turned into a caddy pump waiting for you to put the solenoid in.

Stuff that hex piece and internal bits in the caddy pump and again, "poof" your caddy spec'd pump turns into a chev pump.
So to speak,

That switch in the line tells the ac to disengage
( think we covered this 🤔😉) above a given pressure.
Its not like the IAC wouldn't try to keep base idle but dropping the AC helps it react to instantaneous load somewhat.
This is why bluehairs parking their caddies are sweating in the summer

 

Finally makes sense. They MUST have used that adapter in my Caddy pump... Never mentioned it to me but they had to have to get a line to work in there. I wonder where they got that little hex piece from to install....


Interesting... Without that little secondary device on there the AC would go go go and if I was really wrenching on the wheel would be low idle. Cut the AC, raise the idle.