What kind of injectors are they?

 

Ones that flow gasoline.

On a serious note, they are from a large OEM. There is no way to protect my intellectual property of discovering them and then obtaining and calculating the necessary characterization data for our cars. If I disclosed the information on them, I would lose my ability to obtain them at a price that makes it affordable for everyone. All proceeds from these go to pay for the adoption of my youngest child, which ended up costing us around $20,000.

I do leave the part numbers on these in case something happens to me and you need to find a spare, but I do keep a warranty set available at all times. It's only been used once, for injectors that had some residue in them and were found to be leaking slightly. I put them in my test vehicle and ran them for a day and they did leak a bit at first, but after I ran some good gas through them, they were fine.

 

Ones that flow gasoline.

And ethanol!

 

Sounds pretty good. How many is a "few" sets?

 

Enough for you Brian.

You guys crack me up with these questions.

 

PM sent (I think?) I guess they are called "Discussions" now?

 

To the top. Still have a few more sets available.

 

I had mine refurbed. This seems a great option especially with help on the tune side. If i was in the market id pick up a set.

 

Do you think these would make any measurable power gain vs. my seemingly "good" 200k mile original injectors on an stock motor with intake and exhaust work?

 

I'm not clairvoyant enough to know the spray pattern quality of your injectors. As you can probably surmise, complete atomization is key to optimal fuel consumption. If you daily drive your car and use top tier gasoline, you're probably doing about as good as can be expected on the stock injectors. Certainly though, a lot has improved in fuel injector design in 30 years.

The cars that I personally put them in and datalogged before and after saw a pretty noticeable reduction in fuel trims, even when I adjust the data for the higher fuel pressure that most stock LT1 regulators are allowing nowadays. I am currently working with several that have installed them already to optimize their tuning and should have more numerical results here in the near future. I'm pretty OCD on causality, so I don't want to say for certain unless I can pinpoint it. One car with a RAISS intake but stock tune is seeing 7-15% fueling reduction across the board, but I'm inclined to blame that on the intake, not take credit with the injectors. ANY change to the intake setup has a pretty drastic effect on MAF airflow measurement.

I would be very interested in someone who has already optimized their existing combination's fuel trims dropping in a set, changing only the injectors and injector data, and seeing what happens to the fuel trims. I had someone attempting to do that now, but they strongly believe the optispark has a problem, so that invalidates the data.

 

Updated instructions on 4/5/2023 to note o-ring replacement and purging air before first start.

Here's installation instructions:

1. Start the car and blast the intake manifold around the fuel injectors with a garden hose or pressure washer on low pressure to clean the area. Take the car for a drive or use a leaf blower to clear the water from the area.
2. Depressurize the fuel system: Start the car, disconnect the fuel pump harness at the rear, let the car run until it dies. If it won't die, pop the throttle and that will suck the rest of the fuel out.
3. Shut the ignition off. Ideally, disconnect the battery for fire safety reasons. If the engine is hot, let the engine cool.
4. Blow out or clean out all the injector holes of debris if you haven't already cleaned it out per step 1.
5. Remove the Home Plate resonator (if installed), then the four fuel rail bolts. Remove the black Home Plate plate using a small screwdriver to open the wiring clamps.
6. Spray WD40 at the base of each injector to help the old o-rings out.
7. Optional: remove the fuel lines (if you have the 5/16 and 3/8 disconnect tools).
8. Remove the throttle and cruise control cables by disconnecting them from the throttle body, then carefully releasing the lock tabs on the underside of each, then slide them out.
9. Lift up and gently wiggle the fuel rail in a circular motion to remove the rail and injectors from intake manifold.
10. Clean intake manifold injector bores carefully to prevent debris from falling in when you put the new injectors in.
11. Remove each old injector by rocking back and forth like a swing set. Discard old metal clips (they were for factory assembly ease only). Do be aware that fuel will dump out, so have paper towels handy.
12. Replace the fuel injector o-rings on the front (the two middle sized ones), and the small and large ones go on the regulator.
13. DO NOT mess with the joint on the passenger side rear. It was locked in at the factory.
14. Put WD40 or motor oil on new injector o-rings (top and bottom). I prefer WD40 because it's temporary.
15. Insert new injectors into fuel rail.
16. Insert rail and injectors onto intake manifold. A circular wiggling motion helps to seat them. The white stops should on at or just slightly above the intake manifold.
17. Reinstall fuel rail bolts.
18. Install wiring harness adapters.
19. Connect vehicle wiring harness to injectors.
20. Reconnect fuel lines if you disconnected them.
21. Install home plate resonator mount, reattach cables to clamps, then home plate (13mm nuts, hose clamp up front).
22. Reconnect battery, make sure it's fully charged or on a charger.
23. Reconnect fuel pump harness.
24. Write new BIN file to PCM using WinFlash (part of TunerCat) or FlashHack (preferred). Ignition on, key off.
25. Cycle the key 4 times without starting the car, for two seconds each time, to build fuel pressure and move air out of the system. NOTE - if you do not do this, the car will not fire no matter how long you crank it.
    1. If the car does not start, cycle the key on and off four times again, waiting until the fuel pump turns off to re-cycle the key.
26. The car will start and run rough as air is purged out of the fuel system. Let it smooth out for a minute.
27. Check for any fuel leaks at the injectors and rail joints, just to be safe.

 

Shipping to Canada? V7C 1E4

 

Let's talk offline and figure something out.

 

still have a set available? sent pm a week ago, not sure if inbox full or you haven't seen it?

 

Hey Tayto, yes I saw it, I apologize. I'm very close to getting a 96 Impala SS running again after a 2.5 year restoration, pushing hard on that. I'll PM you back.

 

PM sent.

 

I know this is an older thread, but you just linked to it from the 400 Hp thread, I am talking to Lloyd and about to send heads and intake to him, he is recommending 36 lb injectors, got any left???

 

Hi @Darrenmb , Yes I have a few sets available. Send me a PM and we can talk about your setup.

 

As you probably know, the stock injectors are prone to failure from ethanol exposure. But so are many of the common LT1 swap injectors. And try finding the correct short pulse adders and voltage offsets to make these work properly at low pulsewidths.

I have a few sets of much newer (2016 Model Year) injectors available:

• 30 years newer design.
• Ethanol proof, E85 friendly.
• Vastly improved spray pattern.
• Better starting, idling and part throttle drivability.
• Up to 10% better fuel consumption than your stockers.
• 36lb/hr flow rate (stock is 24). Can support 475hp.
• Permanently gets rid of annoying intermittent misfires at idle due to stock injectors gradually failing, and they WILL fail eventually.
• Comes with FULL characterization data specifically for LT1 PCMs (voltage offsets and short pulse adders; most tuners just change flow rate and drivability suffers).
• Requires reprogramming your PCM. If you email me your tune file, I can update the injector data. You can do upload/download easily for the '94-95s yourself with a programming cable and flashHack, or I can do a PCM exchange. For 96s, you can upload/download via TunerCat OBD2 or JET DST but I cannot do '96 PCM exchanges at this time.
• Injectors come equipped ready to drop in with all necessary adapters. Wiring harness adapters will likely not clear GM corvette fuel rail covers.
• Only $225 shipped - cheaper than new injectors that don't have characterization data, same price as trying to have your stockers refurbished. Trust me I'm not getting rich off of this. I refused to spend $1000 for Injector Dynamics' injectors so I spent a lot of time digging for an alternative solution. You get to benefit from the hard work.
• NEW for May 2021 - I'm including the four fuel rail o-rings with all injector shipments so you can have peace of mind with ALL new o-rings protecting your ride from fire hazards!

PM me for Paypal info. My feedback is here.

Hey there, I'd like to purchase a set. Do u still have some available? What is your PayPal and how much do I owe you?

 

Are they still available

 

@Brock Tech yes, as of right now. if this ad is up, they're available. Send me a direct message ("start a conversation.")

 

Sherlock, I thought I sent you my address in one of my replies but things are getting stuck so I'll just resend it here.

[edited out for privacy]

Thanks

 

@dwardo got it. I edited it out for your privacy.

 

Thanks!

 

Just an update, I still have a few sets of these 36lb injectors on hand. @Blue Wail also mentioned that Racetronix is now selling a 24lb drop-in replacement that looks like a very good piece. If you don't need more flow rate than stock, these are a great option. I don't have any personal experience with them so I can't vouch for how closely they follow the original voltage offsets, short pulse adders or fuel puddling/boiling values, but if he likes them, that's good enough for me.

 

From this injector rehab company, their take on the stock LT1 injectors:

Coil windings short out internally resulting in a drop (or rise) in resistance. These can sometimes be tricky to detect at home. When the injector is not being pulsed, the injector could ohm out to spec, but once they are energized the problem shows its effects and the resistance will rise or fall. Once this problem occurs, there is nothing that can be done other than to replace the injector. Known for continual leaking. Will be corrected and start leaking again shortly after.
We go so fed up with dealing with these injectors that we dumped 10’s of thousands of cores into our dumpster and vowed to never sell another reman’d core as long as we are in business. One of the biggest pieces of $@#t injectors ever made.
These were commonly found on many GM models from the late 80’s to early 90’s having a grey or black top.

 

I have a set of Sherlock’s 36 lb/hr injectors on my wagon.
The injector data provided is 100% accurate; they are a true “plug and play” solution.